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Clase de Cocina en Marrakesh (página 2 de 2)

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Como aprendí a hacer pichón pastilla, uno de los platillos más elegantes de la cocina marroquí.
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Al llegar a este momento, tuve una gran decepción.  La dada sacó un paquete de warkas compradas, una especie de crepas ultradelgadas y aceitadas.  La razón para tomar este curso era aprender a hacer lo que no podía aprender en un libro.  Después de todo, hay montones de pastilla por todos lados, pero hacer tus propias warka está más complicado.  Tan complicado que ellas mismas no sabrían como hacerlas, simplemente las compran en el souk.  De acuerdo, hacer warkas justificaría un curso por si mismo, pero igual yo estaba muy decepcionado. En casa puedes usar pasta brik o pasta filo que compras en la tienda de productos étnicos, pero las warkas auténticas son mucho más delgadas y más elegantes. 

Dobla dos hojas two sheets de warka por la mitad, luego de nuevo por la mitad hasta que las puedas tomar en una mano.  Si aún están muy grandes, corta el exceso.  La idea es minimizar la cantidad de warka para la cantidad que usan de relleno.

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Aceita un plato de postre y desdobla ambas hojas de warka encima.

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Espolvorea con azúcar y canela.

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Añade la carne de pichón y cubre con el huevo revuelto y la salsa (otra photo).

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Espolvorea suficiente mezcla de almendra para cubrirla (otra photo).

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Dobla el resto de la warka superior en forma de pentágono...

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... luego voltéala.

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Ahora dobla la warka inferior sobre la pastilla en la misma forma pentagonal.

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Presiona suavemente press con la mano plana para cerrarla close.

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LLena a una tercera parte una sartén con aceite de cacahuate y sube a fuego alto.  Para probar la temperatura, mete un pedacito de warka piece of warka en el aceite, para ver si se fríe correctamente.

 

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Suavemente desliza la pastilla en el aceite y fríela a fuego alto, removiendo de vez en cuando.

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Cuando la parte inferior se haya dorado, voltéala con delicadeza con una pala de madera.

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La dada se encargó took care de mi propia pastilla mientras yo me ocupada de tomar fotos para ustedes.

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inserta un cuchillo knife en la pastilla y toca la punta para ver si está caliente.  El relleno ya está cocido pero puede estar frío - la pastilla está lista cuando el cuchillo sale caliente.

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Después de tanto freir, puede sonar ridículo tratar de secar el exceso de aciete, pero si tienes un rollo de toallas de papel a la mano te recomiendo hacerlo.  Espolvorea con azúcar glas.  Recuerda que este es un platillo moro, de ascendencia persa y allá se combina lo dulce con las carnes.  

Dibuja en la pastilla unas líneas con canela en polvo powdered cinammon

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Sírvela como una entrada memorable - una pastilla por invitado.  Otra vista view. He probado pastillas en tres de los restaurantes más caros de Marrakesh y ninguna me supo mejor que la que hice bajo la dirección de dada.  Todas se veían igual.  Supongo que la warka era mejor en algunos lugares, pero esto se compensa con el hecho de que la mayoría de las pastillas son recalentadas justo antes de servirlas.  Nos comimos nuestras pastillas bajo los árboles y pasamos un día muy agradable en:

 

La Maison Arabe
http://www.lamaisonarabe.com
1, Derb Assehbe Bab Doukkala, Médina
Marrakech, Morrocco
+212 24 38 70 10

Publicado por la primera vez en Inglès el 31/01/2008
Amablemente traducido en español por RicardoSanchez el 24/08/2008
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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



40 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Gfron1
  • on: 31/01/2008
Thank you for this demonstration - and for insisting on a more exciting and unique topic for the workshop.  You suggested substituting filo for warka.  Warka looks much softer, not as fragile as filo.  If one were good at making thin crepes, would that be a more appropriate substitute, or a crepe in lieu of two sheets of warka?
  • #2
  • Comment by Sherri
  • on: 01/02/2008
I didn't even know phyllo/filo could be fried. I've only baked it.
  • #3
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 02/02/2008
Sherri, filo is quite often fried, for instance in the various sigari and borek made by Turkish cooks. And what about samosas in India? Give it a try if you have a chance, it's really easy to make if you buy the filo dough.
  • #4
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 02/02/2008
I think good warka is definitely thinner and more fragile than industrial filo. I suppose that if you can turn out very thin flour-and-water crepes, they should work too, but have never tried myself. Will you let me know how it works if you try that approach?
  • #5
  • Comment by nyari duit di internet
  • on: 04/02/2008
Mmm, it's a nice cuisine. I like that!
  • #6
  • Comment by Chris
  • on: 05/02/2008
So out of curiosity, which cook is you?
  • #7
  • Comment by cheese_puff
  • on: 05/02/2008
Chris, I am sure he is the one in blue sweater. He just doesn't wanna go public, I guess.
  • #8
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 05/02/2008
Ah, you wonder about where I am in the picture. What made you think I am the lean English doctor in the blue sweater? Perhaps I am the large Moroccan gentleman? Or maybe this is all a hoax and I am the blond American lady on the right? Be calm, thou wedding guest, this blogger is not on any of the pictures but behind the camera.
  • #9
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 05/02/2008
Chris - sorry to disappoint you but even with my fish eye lens I am not yet big enough to show up on the pictures I took myself.
  • #10
  • Comment by Stephen
  • on: 06/02/2008
Great article but please consider putting the photos back into the text of the article.  A hassle to have to click back and forth between the text and photos.
  • #11
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 06/02/2008
Stephen, do you mean the occasional text-linked images or can't you display any of the images of the article? If the former, then it is by design, sometimes I have selected too many pictures or some are not so nice or just repetitive. I link those with a text link for keen readers who wish to see it all. Bear in mind some days I get 10Gigabytes traffic. Pictures are worth a thousand words but text links just download faster!
  • #12
  • Comment by Mike
  • on: 17/02/2008
FXI just have to say, you are an inspiration. Your recipes are interesting without going over on pretentious, and your writing style is a pleasure. If you ever decide to publish a book, I'd be the first to buy.MikeStockholm, Sweden
  • #13
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 18/02/2008
Thanks for your kind comments Mike! I am not sure what theme I should have for a cookbook - what do you think?
  • #14
  • Comment by cris
  • on: 23/02/2008
Thank you to share the recipe of the bastella with your fantastic photos. I was looking for this recipe for years but this is really authentic. Congratulations for your blog.
  • #15
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 26/02/2008
Cris, thanks for visiting. It is indeed the real pigeon bastella/pastilla, unfortunately we can't really get the warka sheets out here in the West. Filo might be a substitute, but not quite the same. To compensate for this we get much better spices than the Moroccans do!
  • #16
  • Comment by patrick
  • on: 26/02/2008
I loved eating pastillas when I was in Morocco a few years ago...I've tried to do some Moroccan cooking since then, but haven't done very much beyond trying to replicate the ubiquitous mint tea without great success.  Your post is inspiring, though, and I'll have to give it another shot.  The pictures are great!
  • #17
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 27/02/2008
Patrick, thanks for visiting! For the Moroccan tea try to use quality green tea rather than the appallant gunpowder tea they sell to tourists. Just mix it with the mint leaves and don't forget to empty the teapot into another one to stop the brewing. Then you can steep a second time and you won't have that woody, tongue-wrenching tannin taste.
  • #18
  • Comment by james vaughnn
  • on: 07/03/2008
I think I know of a crepe-making technique we do here in the Philippines and it produces really thin crepes (ours look THINNER than the pastry sheets you use there).We call them lumpia wrappers (egg roll wrappers), and i've seen the lumpia ladies make them fresh at the market (where the groceries/supermarkets buy them- then they just repackage the whole lot and sell 'em for twice the original price). You basically make this really wet dough (I think it's just rice flour, water, and maybe a bit of oil, but you can change the starchy ingredient to suit whatever crepe you plan on makin) and then heat up a large flat pan that's been oiled lightly. take your wet dough- as much as your hand will hold- and "bursh" it on the hot surface, making circles of thin crepes as you go along.Cooking time is about 10-20 seconds.the sheets are ready when the surfaces bubble and the edges start to lift off of the pan.Then lumpia wrappers don't really stick to each other and don't need oiling as long as you keep them dry (saving you those calories too. hehe) and can be stored for a long time in the freezer.You can adjust the thickness and diameter of your dough circles of course-you just have to experiment on the technique that works for you.Good luck!I hope I helped out a bit.please tell me what happens to your "experiment", should you decide to try it out.:-)It really helps juvenile cooks (such as myself) to have beautifully-done and very helpful references we can go back to in order to improve our dishes, and your blog is a really wonderful source of inspiration to a lot of people. God bless you.
  • #19
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 09/03/2008
James, thanks a lot for your lumpia recipe! It sounds like a worthy Filipino cousin of the Morrocan warka. Have you tried to do it yourself? In Morroco they make it sound like you need a rocket science postdoc because you can even go near the warka pan, but you make it sound more amenable to us amateur chefs.
  • #20
  • Comment by james vaughnn
  • on: 09/03/2008
I HAVE tried it out before, and i discovered that a wetter dough works better- though the trial and error process is really taxing. Haha. but it's worth your while. Some recipes call for eggs (and tilting the pan as you would a crepe), but I find the texture/composition different (it's thicker and less coarse than the average lumpia) and the resulting sheets stick to each other.
  • #21
  • Comment by parshu narayanan
  • on: 17/03/2008
Fascinating, like your splendid pix of the Moroccan food market. Just as Europeans have a mediterranean connection with the Moroccans, (e.g. escargot) we Indians have an Islamic connection with them. My Pathan friend Faisal's mum makes the same thing, except the stuffing is mincemeat - and it is called a Warki Samosa!
  • #22
  • Comment by dean
  • on: 21/06/2008
i love this entry. I just had some briwat at this little moroccan place in new york city and i since i've always been a fan of sweet and savory foods, this dish tickled my palate well. just a couple of questions: that picture of the dada dropping the pat of clarified butter on top of the almonds, is that brown powder cinnamon? and i see some .. white powder as well or is that just the flash from the camera?

PS your face and camera show up twice -- in the 2nd and 3rd pictures in the mirror opposite you.
  • #23
  • Comment by Sheila Harrison
  • on: 26/06/2008
I'll be in Morocco in December - want to take the cooking lessons - do you have an email contact?  What was the price?

By the way, wouldn't dove (all dark meat)be an effective substitute for pigeon?  It's my favorite poultry.
  • #24
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 28/06/2008
Dean, thanks for visiting!
Indeed I am to be seen, to see more of me have a look at the tag FX cameos. Not that interesting, really! As for flash, I use it in the same quantity as canned raviolis, so it must be a white powder I suppose.
  • #25
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 28/06/2008
Sheila, please click on the link in the article and ask the Maison Arabe for this information. I have never had dove but I'm sure it would work fine!
  • #26
  • Comment by Sue
  • on: 02/08/2008
Pidgeon is not available here so I want to try this with chicken. Can you give me some idea of spice quantities for a chicken and what is ras-el-hanout? Well done your recipe looks very straight forward and easy to follow, especially with the accompanying pictures. Thanks
  • #27
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 03/08/2008
Sue, you could use one small chicken instead of two pigeons. The ras-el-hanout is a mix of the many spices sold in Morrocan souks. I´m afraid the Morrocans do not get the great spices they deserve and you could use any mix of cinammon, ginger, pepper, coriander seeds and cumin with whatever else you have in the pantry and get similar results. I know this will offend some but really this is my conclusion after seeing a lot of stale dried spices in Morroco.
  • #28
  • Comment by ng
  • on: 14/08/2008
You got me excited to make pastilla.  Are you able to share the recipe or can you guide me to a good one?  Thanks so much!
  • #29
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 14/08/2008
Ng, sorry but I did not write the ingredient list, I must have it somewhere. There are many recipes out there but you can follow the procedure outlined in the article and use your discretion as per the quantities.
  • #30
  • Comment by Betsi Doukane
  • on: 09/09/2008
What a wonderful article, I was in Morocco in July I tried pastilla such a delight!, now that I am back in USA it's so difficult to find the warka dough, phyllo dough does not make justice to this delicate and savory dish.
If anybody knows of a north african grocery store in Florida I would appreciate it so much.
  • #31
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 09/09/2008
Betsi, I would really be surprised to find proper warka outside Morocco, and it is no mean feat to make your own. Agreed, phyllo is far from the mark!
  • #32
  • Comment by tammy m
  • on: 14/10/2008
I thank you for your visuals for us non-culinary folk.  You did not miss one step.  My family participate in a geography club and this pastilla was a big hit for all.  I did have to substitute a few items, but the results were fantastic!!
  • #33
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 14/10/2008
Tammy, glad you had fun with my little pastilla recipe. Indeed a great dish, and there are many variations so no problem for substitution done within the spirit of the dish.
  • #34
  • Comment by Fraigo
  • on: 22/12/2008
Wow ,Thank you for sharing such a royal Recipe with us , actually I tasted it in Marrakesh some 9 years ago , most probably I have to try it again, prepared all by myself with some modification of using oven instead of frying and less sugar. by the way I had a similar dish in Istanbul once with chicken , " Waraka " & whole almonds and pinch of cinnamon but with mo sugar, the recipe name as I can remember is Sultani Kepap .
  • FX's answer→ Fraigo, I hope you get to try this, you certainly stand a better chance to get proper Warka sheets in Saudi than we do here!

  • #36
  • Comment by Paul Zwick
  • on: 01/03/2009
Great pics. where do I get info re this course?
(Also, what camera do you use. Trying to find something - a camera- good for my own food pix in class for my lesson books/files.)
  • FX's answer→ Paul, I use a Nikon D300 and some flashes. The link to the course is in the article.

  • #38
  • Comment by name  Teresa
  • on: 19/04/2009
My friend and I are on a five day visit to marrakech in May '09 and I hoping to try some cooking classes whilst out there. Can you tell me how much this particular hotel charged?
  • FX's answer→ Can't remember.

  • #40
  • Comment by Kees Koppen
  • on: 30/10/2010
Very good article with great pictures. I make mine slightly differently but I won´t argue with a Morroccan grandmother, I´m not that stupid. So my only comment is: PLEASE DO NOT FEED CHICKEN BONES TO YOUR CAT, IT WILL KILL HIM!

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