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Asi Comen Trufas en Paris

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Con la esperanza de que la crisis financiera haga al menos algo bueno y baje los precios de las trufas de sus alturas estratosféricas, te muestro como comen trufas en Paris.

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Muchas personas nunca han probado las trufas. No escribo ésto como una mofa si no las has probado, sino para mostrarte lo que son y la mejor manera de disfrutarlas.  Si apuntas 'Comer una trufa' en tu lista de cosas que hacer en la vida, te diré como hacerlo correctamente.  Y si piensas que simplemente nunca podrás darte el lujo de comer una tampoco te sientas mal. Las trufas no son mágicas.  Saben tan bien como una vaina de vainilla de calidad, sólo que su escasez y corta vida en el anaquel las hacen horrorosamente caras.  Tal vez te sorprenda saber que la producción mundial de trufas ha venido decreciendo durante los últimos 100 años.  Los recolectores de trufas de hoy recolectan el 15% de lo que sus pares lograban en el siglo 19.  Menos pasturas, menos huertos apropiados para su crecimiento y cuantas razones más te imagines.  Las trufas ni siquiera se preservan tan bien, sin importar lo que los productores de trufas en conserva quisieran que creyeras.  Todo esto hace que sus precios sean astronómicos y su disponibilidad muy escasa, seas quien seas.  Eso es todo.  Asi es que puedes disfrutar la vainilla, el azafrán, buenos vinos tintos y sensacionales tes oolong - todos están al mismo nivel que las trufas pero son mucho más accesibles.

Algunos de los componentes de los sabores de las trufas no son percibidos por todos.  Es una cuestión genética.  Pero a menos que pruebes una trufa verdaderamente fresca, nunca sabrás si es la trufa la que está insípida o es tu nariz la que no la puede oler en toda su plenitud.  Nunca compres trufas en conserva.  No compres trufas en una tienda a menos que conozcas bien de trufas.  Ve a un muy buen restaurante que utilice muchas trufas, y ve en temporada. Para trufas negras, la temporada es de diciembre a marzo.  Mientras más tarde en la temporada, habrá menos trufas pero serán las de más sabor.  Si te quieres llevar una a casa, pregunta al maître d' si les puedes comprar una trufa.

Durante la pascua, comí una comida con trufas negras en dos restaurantes de Paris.  No es tan caro como creerías así es que no me envidies.  Si puedes ir a Paris, lo más probable es que puedas el menos darte el lujo de un buen plato en uno de estos restaurantes.  SI no puedes, es posible que un día puedas, ¡No te des por vencido!

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Mi primera comida fue en el Hélène Darroze, una joven chef del suroeste francés.  Hace un par de años, llamé a su último restaurante y la enorme Maître d' se rió de mi por atrverme a preguntarle si tenía una mesa para el día siguiente - Pero es sábado, Monsieur.  Ni siquiera intentó que reservara para otro día, pero cuando el restaurante quebró y montó otro en otro lado, decidí dar a la Sra. Darroze otra oportunidad.

El restaurant se encuentra cerca de la tienda departamental Bon Marché, en un departamento en un primer piso convertido en restaurante.  Al sentarme, un joven mesero vino y rebanó un jamón basco excelente en una gran rebanadora italiana de época (primera foto).  Muy divertido y un gran producto.

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Nos toca escoger de una amplia colección de  panes antes de pasar al primer platillo.  Me gusta el guante blanco para servir el pan. 

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El primer platillo fue un escautoun de trufas, similar al que yo había cocinado cooked basándome en sus instrucciones pero que mezclé con el fondúe Mont d'Or Vacherin Truffle Fondue, que no resultó.  La versióin que cociné en casa fue mucho mejor que ésta, aquí el harina de maíz estaba muy gruesa o no completamente cocida y dejaba una sensación arenosa  y rasposa en los dientes.  Y demasiado salado.  Pero el platillo es brillante y nunca he podido realmente entender porqué es el artículo menos popular en FXcuisine.com.

 

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Una muy decente terrina de foie gras con trufas, aunque nada espectacular comparada con la que yo hago my own.

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Brie, un queso suave de vaca de Normandía, añejado lo suficiente para que las bacterias lo transformen en un cielo cremoso, rebanado por la mitad y relleno de trufa negra fresca.  Lo puedes comprar en la cremería (al menos yo puedo a la vuelta de la esquina) pero nunca es tan bueno como éste, ya que utilizan trufas enlatadas y Darroze utiliza trufas frescas.

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El postre simplemente fatal.  Trufas en el helado - no te sabe a nada, con cubitos de trufa y salsa de chololate en el plato.  Un desastre de buena vista y un desperdicio de una trufa perfectamente buena.

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Un gran lugar para una iniciación rápida a las trufas es Tierra de Trufas 'Terre de Truffe' a la vuelta de la Plaza de la Madeleine en Paris.  Se te perdona el que pienses que ésto no es sino un aparador urbano para rendir culto a la trufa, pero sobre todo a su dueño, el enorme 'Bruno des Truffes'. Al entrar a la tienda ves un pequeño altar con fotos de este chef de Provence y sus libros, con citas enmarcadas.  En su restaurante de Provence, Bruno tiene un muro cubierto con un gran fresco, al estilo de Bocuse, con él al centro.  Pero a diferencia del restaurante de Bocuse, Terre de Truffe sí ofrece valor en su restaurante.

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La trufa es mejor cuando se come con simpleza - con huevos o papas.  Aquí tienes una simple rebanada de baguette tostada con lajas delgadas de trufa negra, sal de mar y aceite de trufa.Truffle is best eaten simply - on eggs or potatoes. Here is a simple piece of toasted baguette bread with black truffle shavings, sea salt and truffle oil.

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La ternera con espárragos y lajas de trufa estuvo buena, pero con las trufas, hay que escoger la simplicidad. Yo pedí un plato mucho más simple:

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Mi platillo favorito con trufas - una papa grande horneada con crema reducida, aceite de trufa y todas las lajitas de trufa malanosporum que puedas pagar.

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Helado con trufa en una salsa de miel en la Terre de Truffe.   Muy bonito, pero siempre necesitas algo de calor para captar el sabor de la truf; el helado de trufa es una idea que simplemente no funciona.  Nada como el delicioso Black Truffle Soufflé de La truffière.

Terre de Truffe
www.terresdetruffes.com
+33 (0) 1 53 43 80 44
21 rue Vignon
75008 PARIS
Tienda de trufas y restaurante.  Hay otro que se llama Maison de la Truffe en la Plaza de la Madeleine a 3 minutos de allí.  pero me gusta más la Terre de Truffe.

Hélène Darroze
www.helenedarroze.com
+33 (0) 1 42 22 00 11
4 rue d'Assas
75006 PARIS
También tienen una brasserie más accesible abajo.

La Truffière
www.latruffiere.com
+33 (0) 1 46 33 29 82
4 r Blainville
75005 PARIS
Me encanta este restaurante, muy acogedor y con trufas desde el principio hasta el postre.  Para conocer más, lee mi artículo sobre su Black Truffle Soufflé.

Publicado por la primera vez en Inglès el 23/10/2008
Amablemente traducido en español por RicardoSanchez el 27/10/2008
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Copyright FXcuisine 2014 - all rights reserved.
If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



38 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Alan
  • on: 23/10/2008
More tantalizing glimpses of a heavenly world! Francois, please give a hint of how much I have to save up to enjoy a meal at either restaurant
  • FX's answer→ Alan, in fact the truffle potato is really not that expensive (for truffles at least!), it is on the menu at €21 out of season with Tuber Aestivum, a cheaper cousin of the grande dame, the black Tuber Melanospermum. And you can ask them to grate a whole truffle on top for as long as you can afford! Reall worth visiting if you are in Paris.

  • #3
  • Comment by Rosa
  • on: 23/10/2008
That must have been a real taste experience! I love the flavor of truffles!

Cheers,

Rosa
  • FX's answer→ Absolutely, and you can get the same at many gastronomic restaurants here in Switzerland. My favorite is of course Rochat in Crissier!

Great article. I have tried and loved truffles before and would really like to buy my own, but I don't have a clue of how to proceed. Do you know any places online where I would trustingly buy a truffle (and have it delivered to Greece)? Thanks
  • FX's answer→ Buying truffle is an expensive proposition fraught with many disappointments. Canned truffle producers all claim they are as good as fresh, but often you find a bland blob inside with no flavor at all. Apart from buying a fresh one in France or Italy, there are several options in Greece. First you can call up some fancy restaurant that uses truffle, there must be at least a few in Greece that serve truffle. They might sell you one. Price might even beat what you could find in Paris. This is what I do with a local restaurant. alternatively, I am convinced there must be many native species of truffles growing in Greece, not the Tuber Melanospermum but other ones. Try to look it up online, there might be some Greek Truffle Enthusiasts Leage. That might make for a fun and altogether more affordable expedition!

I usually look to you for the ultimate in food porn but this time I am very grateful for your *GUIDANCE* on what to do and more importantly ($$$$) what NOT to do in regards to truffles.

I must admit that I have never experienced truffles in their solid incarnation.  I have had some incredible mushroom bisque with truffle "dust" on it and I've had truffle salt.  Both of these items gave me a pretty strong truffle experience, short of actually chewing one.  The scent.  The unmistakable Earthiness that hovered over the dish like an ethereal halo.  Not quite as "in your face" as biting into a truffle but my curiosity was piqued and my appetite whetted for a more "substantial" truffle outing.

(Sigh...)  Someday.
  • FX's answer→ Chiffonade, you might want to experience truffle oil, an fine product especially in its non-rancid incarnation. Make sure to check the packing date. Oil really does trap well the flavor of truffle shavings, and although it's not exactly the same as the actual truffle-in-your-hand epiphany, it still makes for an immensely enjoyable experience.

I have had the experience of eating risotto with truffles and truffled lasagna  while visiting Umbria a couple of years ago.  I still remember the wonderful aroma and taste of those dishes.

Thanks for writing this most informative article. I hope to visit Paris one day and have added your recommendations to my list of places to visit.

  • FX's answer→ Liliana, the white truffles you have eaten in Italy have an even more delicate taste than the black truffles sold in France. You should have no regrets!

  • #11
  • Comment by chez us
  • on: 23/10/2008
What do I think?  I NEED some of those truffles!
  • FX's answer→ Denise I recommend you wait for the right opportunity to buy a really good truffle rather than rushing and get a bad one. Canned truffles are tricky, restaurants use them all the time but they sometimes turn out totally bland. Good luck!

  • #13
  • Comment by Nigel Redhead
  • on: 23/10/2008
With a friend in the dordogne and with the help of a dog, we picked a kilo of Truffles.
Made an omelette with some eggs and truffles, I didn't think the taste was particularly great. Then had shavings of truffles on buttered baguette. That was better.

  • FX's answer→ Nigel, this sounds like an exciting trip you had with your friend! Now are you sure the truffles you gathered were Tuber Melanospermum? There are dozens of types of truffles and they all look somewhat the same, but with rather different tastes. Also, an important component in the truffle taste is not perceived by some people - it's a genetic predisposition that saves them from eating truffles into oblivion.

  • #15
  • Comment by Channah
  • on: 23/10/2008
Those photo's are LOVELY! Such an inspiration.

Dear FX, I regiligiously visit your site. It inspires and cheers me up. I'm a vegetarian myself (so I tried the onion soup already and it was deelish!), but I love to cook some good meat for my family & boyfriend....and often do so. Your recipes are loved in our house.

Thanks for all the great recipes, pictures and amusing commentary. Never stop!
  • FX's answer→ Channah I am glad you like my site despite the sometimes gory unvegatarian recipes! The pastry is always fully meatless and there are loads of veggie things you can do with truffles.

  • #17
  • Comment by Lily
  • on: 23/10/2008
Sadly, I wish that I was fancy enough for truffles and red wine.

I really can't taste the difference expensive pasta dinners and canned spaghetti-O's.

Although, that dessert looks delicious! Why does it seem that the elegance of a restaurant has a direct correlation to how tall its dishes are?
  • FX's answer→ Lily, if you see on the same table canned spag bowls and real pasta you'll know the difference, no doubt about that! Yes, French pastry chefs try to make spectacular plates but the proof is in the pudding and that dessert did not taste that spectacular despite its good looks!

  • #19
  • Comment by LauraC
  • on: 23/10/2008
This article reminded me of an incredible meal at Alain Ducasse in Paris.  It was a five course truffle dinner. The restaurant is beautiful and our meal was spectacular, a salad hidden under a shaved truffle dome was a memorable course as well as the pigeon ravioli with a very rich broth and shaved truffle. Great article, as usual you have me dreaming of a trip to Paris (my favorite place to visit).
  • FX's answer→ Laura, I wish I had the meal you mention at Ducasse's, never actually eaten at his main restaurant in the Georges V.

  • #21
  • Comment by LordBest
  • on: 24/10/2008
I am one of those unfortunate people who suffer from an addiction to truffles. I had them for the first and only time a couple of years ago, for my 21st birthday. IT really was an epiphany, and I dream about truffles atleast four times a week. I have just heard that same restaurant that I first tried truffles, Vue du Monde in Melbourne (spelling mistake deliberate) has recieved a fresh shipment of white truffles. Now I will have to go and pay the $80 extra to try them.
Love the site by the way, I have tried many recipes, and have been experimenting with many sorbet variations amongst other things.
  • FX's answer→ Lord best I'm glad to hear of a fellow tartufomaniac!

  • #23
  • Comment by Nigel Redhead
  • on: 24/10/2008
I can send you a snap of the truffles I found and ate on an omelette and on plain baguette and butter.
Frankly I think they are a little bit like the emperor's clothes
  • FX's answer→ Nigel I'd be most interested to see the pictures! In my experience there are three reasons why truffles don't taste like much: 1) Wrong sort of truffle - only Tuber Melanospermum and Tuber magnatum really have an outstanding smell, the others are just curiosities but there is not much market for them due to the lack of smell. If you gathered a kilogram of Melanospermum and ate them with your friends, well, that's one expensive lunch which I would very much have liked to participate in! But maybe you got one of the many other sorts of truffles. 2) Truffles lose their smell rapidly, even when in the ground 3) Finally and most disturbingly, a number of people just do not perceive the molecule that makes the distinctive smell of truffles - this is a genetic condition that places them above the rest of humanity in resisting the urge of gluttony. Perhaps you are one of them and don't really perceive that molecule.

  • #25
  • Comment by Jay Rosenberg
  • on: 24/10/2008
Wonderful!  But Bocuse is appears to be slightly slighted -- my goodness we are going to Lyon Monday and a reservation at Bocuse for Tuesday night.  What can we dare to order there?
  • FX's answer→ Jay I hope you had fun in Lyon, Bocuse's place in Collonges is a tourist rip-off, see my article about it "The Chef is Naked".

Thank you for the informative post on truffles. I have used a lot of truffles in the past, so I can attest for the short shelf life. We like to use all sorts of ways to extend the shelf-life of the black gold, like storing it in our aborio rice.

I have never had the pleasure of eating a truffle so close to its birthplace though. One question, have you ever experienced what a truffle is like when it comes out of the ground?
  • FX's answer→ Jason I have never eaten a truffle straight off the ground but if I did I might turn into a werepig on full moon!

  • #29
  • Comment by Juliet
  • on: 25/10/2008
Wow. Looks like you ate well in Paris!
  • FX's answer→ Juliet, I always eat well in Paris, a difficult place not to like and with options for every budget!

  • #31
  • Comment by chef4cook
  • on: 27/10/2008
I agree with the need for warmer temps to fully get the truffle taste and aroma. I personally like truffles shaved over pasta in cream sauce, over lightly scrambled eggs, and with potato puree.
  • FX's answer→ Exactly, the simpler the better with truffles.

  • #33
  • Comment by jeanne warren
  • on: 28/10/2008
Thank you for the great article. I much prefer the white truffles in Italy. In fact, I just got home last night from Italy and will be making homemade tagliatelle with shaved white truffle on top, along with white truffle oil and truffle salt and pepper. Simple is best with truffles, as you say. I have had them on multiple dishes and I think truffles on eggs, truffles on pasta or truffles on risotto is the best way to go.

This year was too dry, so the truffle prices, which are always through the roof are now worse. I brought home just one truffle to enjoy. I also bought dried sliced truffle and will put this in olive oil which makes it taste divine!

We had the good fortune to go truffle hunting near Alba 3 years ago. It is a fascinating thing, to watch the dog find the truffles. He was right every time!


  • FX's answer→ Jeanne, I agree with white truffles beating black ones, no question there! How did you organize the white truffle hunting in Alba?

  • #35
  • Comment by Lulu
  • on: 31/12/2009
En busca de recetas de trufa,

Gracias por el articulo. Me gusto tu sencilles, me agrada el que pudieras tener presente que muchos no sabes que es el sabor de una trufa. Te cuento que hoy, despues de varios years, consegui aceite de trufa importado desde Italia. En estos dias me decidire por la elaboracion de la primera receta, al aceite de trufa blanca. Gracias por tu articulo, quiza algun dia pueda probar un platillo con trufas, por ahora me conformo con un platillo al aceite de trufa blanca. Hasta pronto

Lulu's

USA   
  • FX's answer→ Gracias por tu recado, yo comì trufas en Madrid la semana pasada, tambien muy ricos!

  • #37
  • Comment by Omí Wale
  • on: 19/04/2010
.



What I think about your article is what I think about all your articles:  Excellence, just so much fun.

I've never had truffles but my head is spinning, some from the pictures.... but most from the article.

I've never liked caviar to the point where I do not want to even try it anymore.  May be I will be a flop in front of some trufa thing.

A kiss and a hug to each one of the readers that have pitched in with so much gusto.


Omí Wale



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  • #38
  • Comment by Armando
  • on: 04/01/2011
Me gusto mucho este articulo.Desde un tiempo a la fecha he estado intrigado con lo todo relacionado a las trufas, solo imaginando el sabor, como se preparan, como se disfrutan.Definitivamente no soy un conocedor culinario,solo espero poder algun dia disfrutar de las trufas.
pregunta: Es posible disfrutar de trufas en algun lugar de San Diego, CA?
Saludos.

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