A Visit to Rungis, The World's Biggest Food MarketHome >> Experiences
Text-only version printed fromhttp://FXcuisine.com/default.asp?Display=32 Rungis, just outside Paris, is a cult place for gourmets. It is
so huge you need a car to go from one hall to the next. That is where
Parisian chefs buy what they cook. I was able to visit at 4h00 in the
morning. Rungis is the world's largest wholesale market for fresh produce. Fish, meat, fruits, vegetables, cheese and even fresh flowers are sold here every day in quantities so large an entire train station and highway exit has been built to serve it. Being just outside Paris - you can see the Eiffel Tower and the Tour Montparnasse in the horizon on the picture above - Rungis serves many Parisian restaurants or great standing. The market has distinguishing clients and only the freshest, highest quality products can hope to be sold. This make it a very attractive place to visit for a travelling gourmet such as myself. But one cannot visit Rungis. There are no passenger trains or buses, no subways and most taxis won't drive there. You need a card to enter. Locals are not hugely friendly to outsiders. And Rungis works between midnight and 7 AM. So how did I manage to visit?
Rungis' administration had referred me to a private Rungis tour guide. We arranged an appointment at 5:30 AM. 'At what time would we need to leave the hotel in central Paris', we asked. 'You need a good 90 minutes' they answered. We checked on the map and asked a couple people and decided, given the time of the day, to allow for 30 minutes only. Most cabs won't drive to Rungis, so we had the concierge negotiate with the Taxi Bleus, a cab company, for a driver who would. The drive took only 20 minutes or so and the driver was familiar with the market and brought us to La Marée, where all Rungis tours apparently start. We could not reach the guide's cellphone but he found us as we exited the cab. How lucky! I could see the headlines 'Foreign gourmets found frozen after being dumped in Rungis.' A la Marée is a brasserie cum gourmet fish restaurant set right next to the Fish Hall ('Le pavillon de la marée'). President Mitterand used to come in the middle of the night with government ministers for oyster-eating contests Over coffee, our guide M. Philippe Bardet, started to explain us how important Rungis was. 'Rungis sells over €7bn worth of food every year. The market covers 232 hectares. It was moved from les Halles in the 1960s, etc...' He looked at his watch and suggested we hurry before all the fish was gone. All
visits of Rungis start with the Fish Hall as it opens around midnight
and closes when all the fish has been sold. By 6h00 most of it is gone,
so you need to come as early as possible. But before you can enter any of the food halls, you need to put on a CSI-like white outfit with the ugliest imaginable white hat. Mr Bardet took some out of his car and gave them to us. We entered the newly renovated Fish Hall. There was not much fish left as we arrived. This shark was already past his prime by 6 AM. Fish mongers buy them so that children passing their stall will ask their mom to buy them fish. Apparently an old and established trick of the trade.
The Fruits and vegetables hall is the world's largest, although all you see is a giant hall with piles upon piles of vegetables. There is nothing one cannot find in shops unless you are looking for a ton of tomatoes. Traders from all over Europe come to buy and sell fruits in Rungis. It is much more than a wholesale market for Parisian restaurateurs.
The cheese hall has been in steady decline since French supermarkets have decided to increase their cheese offering. They don't buy their cheese at Rungis and the little cheese shops, struggling with this new competition, can make up for the lost sales at Rungis. Some of the cheese wholesalers in the Pavillon des Fromages have already moved on to sell other products. Most cheeses I had already seen, but some of the large cheese meules were rather impressive: My favorite place in Rungis was the Pavillon de la chasse - the Game Hall. November was a fine time to visit, but at first all we saw was another endless hall filled with cartons: The
interesting bit is inside the cartons - colorful birds and furry
animals. I would appreciate if any reader could identify the birds in
the photos below.
Those Scottish Grouses probably ended up in Parisian restaurants over the week end. This Scot must be one of the few Britons to export gourmet food to France. Well done! At the center of the Game Hall is Le Saint-Hubert
(+33 (0)1 46 86 62 14), obviously a game restaurant named after the
saint patron of hunters, where buyers and sellers meet up over a chunk
of wild boar, all clad in their white CSI outfits. I think if a tourist
sat there he would feel like Roman Polanski in the Fearless Vampire Killers when he faces a large mirror in a room filled with vampires and he is the only reflection. You would stand out.
I sure like my rabbit, but at my butcher's they rarely offer such honest, down to earth desription of the goods as '6 Rabbits, wild, in fur, gut in'. Caution: if you are vegetarian or have a heart condition, please DO NOT click on the text-linked images in this section. By the entrance of the goriest hall of them all, La Triperie (the guts hall), we saw a pool of fresh blood: A bag of hearts. we saw a carton of brains - calf or sheeps? Calves' heads
and pigs' heads are always a hit with young female Japanese
visitors. According to our guide, they make all sorts of hisses
and laughs and some faint. We were spared the strongest sight, horses'
head. See some more heads.
The Meat Hall is a soft place compared to what precedes. Here they sell only regular steak, sirloin and filet, albeit by the carcass. Want to cosy up with the locals?
This dead piglet can shock some readers.
Our final visit was a huge supermarket for restaurateurs selling industrial and semi-industrial meal components. A sort of ready-to-wear gastronomic supermarket. In this aisle, Parisians restaurant owners can buy ready-made Pâtés, pickles and prawns by the gallon. Real chef's specials. Further into the supermarket, we discovered what may be called the Swiss secret of Parisian saucemakers.
An entire row filled with powdered sauces for every sauce known to
Escoffier. Swiss-made by Knorr. Ahem. I'll say all French chefs do not
shop here if you concede that there is more to Switzerland than Knorr. We concluded our extraordinary visit around 9:00 AM with a plate of oysters and an omelette at A la Marée. Our guide Mr Sordet had been nice, professional and informative throughout and he waited till we were in the cab before leaving. Some people call dozens of cab before one actually shows up in Rungis. The visit was definitely worth it and I warmly recommend this to any gourmet or home chef.
How could you visit Rungis? I know 4 ways:
1. join a tour group 2. Hire an official guide 3. Go with a Rungis registered buyer/seller 4.
Sneak in with chutzpah 5.
Become a registered buyer Once you are inside, you will probably not get the same price or quality as a knowledgeable professional. But sometimes choice and freshness are just as important as price.
Visiter Rungis Philippe Bardet A la Marée http://www.rungisinternational.com Rungis Accueil 24 rue des Meuniers 94152 Rungis cedex Phone: +33 (0) 01 41 80 80 75 Fax: +33 (0) 01 41 80 80 79 cartes.acces@semmaris.fr 883433 views |
71 Comments
- #1
- Comment by thomas brundage
I will be in Paris in March 2007 and plan to try to tour Rungiswhile Iam there. Your preview and information look great. Thank You!
- #2
- Answered by fx
Thomas, thanks for the comment. Let me know how it went!- #3
- Comment by Peter Evans
I visited RUNGIS last November as part of a UN ECE Meat Standardsdelegation and we were their to view the Offal and meat market. I have
been in the meat industry for 45 years and this was the greatest
display of meat products that I have ever seen. We started at 0445AM
and by 0800 it was time for breakfast (or lunch for the market
people)at the market offal restaurant. The serving was Calf Head Mask
(boned out calf head) rolled and boiled served on a bed of greens and a
garnish of garlic source and a glass of red wine to wash it down
followed by choc - desert. hat a great start to the day. We spent the next 10 hours at meetings in the building debating offal products.What a great experience it is to visit Rungis.
- #4
- Comment by hon
The product is wonderful, but how to get in touch with the supplier. looking forward to your kindly reply, thank you.- #5
- Answered by fx
Which product do you refer to? I don't think there are any suppliers at Rungis, most people are either wholesalers or buyers.- #6
- Comment by jonathan park
You are sick... get a real job... you inconsiderate rabbit killer... you are lower than a pig.- #7
- Answered by fx
Jonathan, I will try to post an obituary for the rabbit.- #8
- Comment by Parshu Narayanan
I am a Hindu, whose Indian heritage includes the world's greatest vegetarian cuisines and I must confess to some Chainsaw massacre-style horror and civilizational "clashing" at seeing boxes of colourful little birds and rabbits,bags of brains and hearts, heads of pigs and calves and so forth - I am very sorry for feeling so judgemental, and 60% of my countrymen would eat most of these things, but I cant help feeling that they and you Westerners are neither refined nor civilized and those who eat only what grows on God's good earth (yours truly, for instance) are on an ethically and culturally higher plane.- #9
- Answered by fx
Parshu, indeed it is very difficult but for the most hard-core meat eater not to feel for the slaughtered animals sold in Rungis. Many of the people who eat them would hesitate if they saw the animal alive or freshly killed. I agree. But who am I to disguise the reality of Rungis to the visitors? If you decide to visit once, please know there is a large flowers hall too.- #10
- Comment by parshu.narayanan
Of course you are right. On calm reflection, there is no culture without some perverse traditions. The best one can hope for is humane slaughter.- #11
- Answered by fx
Quite right indeed - I read in Mircea Eliade's book 'L'inde', a recollection of his travel through Indian in the 1930's that he witnessed locals who kept a crocodile alive for days with his tail partly cut for the meat. Keeping him alive ensured fresh meat. It's really hard to sum up a culture just with a few horrible anectodes and we must agree that there is more to France than pressed ducks, snails and frog legs.- #12
- Comment by richard hawke
Thanks for the information, I am going to visit Rungis next week can't wait!- #13
- Answered by fx
Richard, send me some pictures of your visit if you can and enjoy!- #14
- Comment by natalie
How could you kill all of these animals! What did they do to you?- #15
- Answered by fx
Natalie, rest assured that these animals were quite dead already when I arrived in Rungis. But I admit Rungis is no place for vegetarians and might turn you into one if you stay too long!- #16
- Comment by Erin
Your sick, wtf is wrong with you people. Anyone who likes to see dead animals is a freak, and seriously needs to get a life. I'm not like a pet person or anything, but animals have feelings you know, pigs scream when their head is being sawed off, dogs wince when their kicked. Freaks.- #17
- Comment by psyduck
Amazing! Thanks for sharing your trip with the rest of the world. As a cook who can spend an hour at a regular market, that place looks just incredible to me.Also, your tour guide looks like Ben Gazzara.- #18
- Comment by Harv
Interesting place! I believe Chef Anthony Bourdain's show, called No Reservations, was there in the game hall a few years ago. To those that made rude remarks, I would say that you see plenty of "dead animals" in your supermarket, just not in it's original form. Do you go yell at the butcher there? Do you chastise the customers purchasing meat? These photos show your food before it's been processed into unrecognizable parts.- #19
- Comment by Arvind Kapoor
I am a student I had studied about Rungis Terminal Market and had worked on its implementation in India.... I had a dream to visit Rungis Market once- #20
- Comment by halim
I would like to visit this centre to enhance my experience in logistic and packaging system of international standard It will well managed- #21
- Comment by H. F. Lee
I am interested in visiting something not every typical tourist would like to see. I have heard of the Paris Wholesale Market and would like to visit. Your article provides the best info and direction on how to get there. It is great as far as I am concerned!- #22
- Comment by Debopriyo
Fantastic pictures... The birds are mainly grouse, partridge and mallard (duck) and the furry animals are rabbits. They represent the epitome of gastronomy in France and is nothing to be ashamed or sick about. They are bred for eating like chickens or goats in India or for that matter any where in the world.- #23
- Comment by Bruce F
This is a terrific piece. I have one small suggestion. You might want to change the title of the piece to "A Visit to Rungis, .....". Right now it's ungrammatical.I do want to say that I truly enjoy your site. It's great reading.- #24
- Comment by Becky
Hi! Thanks for the article. FYI, the correct website is "www.visiterungis.com". I'd hate for someone to miss out. I just finished watching a rerun of the No Reservations show--it inspired me to visit Rungis when I'm in Paris in a few weeks.- #25
- Answered by fx
Thanks for the corrections - I have amended the article!- #26
- Comment by Mary
You asked for someone to identify the birds in your picture, well I can definitely say they are Pheasants in the feather, pheasants plucked, cock pheasants, Partridge and Mallard. I would love to visit Rungis with my partner and have a meal at the fish restaurant.- #27
- Comment by Sasha
Did you enjoy your visit?- #28
- Comment by sarat kumar chalasani
I am a 55 year old Indian physician working in Abu Dhabi.This is the first time I am writing a comment. Usually I just read and move on.I wouldn"t eat any of the animals you've shown but your article was simply great. So is your web-site. My congratulations.- #29
- Comment by alisha
i just think your killing too much animals- #30
- Comment by Thomas Stephens
I found your article very insightful, I thank you for putting it up for people like me who just plain enjoy learning about fine gourmet foods, especially from France. Where one day I hope to visit and become a great Chef. Sincerely Thomas Stephens.......Temecula, California- #31
- Comment by mark hollander
Great tour- and the photos were superb- perhaps because of the lack of flash... A propos to large markets, i have visited The "La Merced" market in Mexico City, Mexico, many times (also massive and very photogenic), and remember seeing an excellent photo essay on the Tokyo fish market (world's largest?).keep 'em coming- I like your work!- #32
- Answered by fx
Thank you for your comments! I have a big article on Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market on this website too, and would very much enjoy visiting Mexico's La Merced.- #33
- Comment by Sonya
Thanks for the great read. Much enjoyed the entertaining comments. My husband works at Rungis (fruit) and I regularly sneak in with a friend to have a look around, though it's hard to soak up the atmosphere when you're not with a "local". La Marée is a must.- #34
- Comment by Joseph Vazhakkoottam
Excellent!!- #35
- Comment by Ellen
What a wonderful site - thank you so much! I am impressed by many of the postings I have read thus far, but this is my favorite! Is there a way to display all of your photos in a post? I would rather not click click click... thanks!!- #36
- Answered by fx
Ellen, all you need is either open your browser window very large, or click on the High Resolution link on top or just use this link http://fxcuisine.com/default.asp?Display=32&resolution=highI hope this helps!
- #37
- Comment by BHUPI
Hello, Thanks for giving really very useful information on your site. thanks a lot- #38
- Comment by Homan
What a perfect wholesale market. I would like to visit there.where can I get more photo about that market? thx for all- #39
- Comment by castorp
This is just amazing. I don't see the point of people being horrified by dead meat.I just admire a culture that succeed in keeping products fresh, healthy and appealing in such a large scale consumption society ( which in many other countries has turn to industrial and chemical way of making food...)- #40
- Answered by fx
Homan I just bought a nice book about Rungis that you can order from Amazon.fr, or you can visit their website for more pictures.- #41
- Answered by fx
Castorp, thanks for visiting my site!- #42
- Comment by GunnCat
FX, is Rungis as large as Hunts Point Coop?- #43
- Answered by fx
GunnCat, I don't know the place you mention but Rungis is huge, largest wholesale food market in Europe, you need a car to cover it, so I guess it's probably bigger unless Hunts Point Coop claims to be the largest in the world.- #44
- Comment by Wendy Mehr
I am fascinated by Rugis. I saw a tour for the first time by Anthony Bordain and I can not wait to go. Your pictures and tour are wonderful. I am a home chef and adore cooking. Please if you have a chance come and attend "Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival" . We had our first this last March and it was tremendously succesful with such chefs as Alain Passard, Ming Tsai, Jacque Pepin and so many others. Thank you for your time. Wendy- #45
- Answered by fx
Wendy, thanks for visiting, I hope you get to visit Rungis, if you do try to go with a guide and very, very early before the action is out!- #46
- Comment by James
You have done a great job here giving precise informations and good desription of the main theme its like being at your side while been taken around thanks a great deal.- #47
- Comment by Jean
One of the problems with the West mainly is that many have disassociated the meat they eat from the animals and processes which it comes from. Coming from a largely rural island, I'm accustomed to slaughtering animals for food and seeing dead animals. Indeed there is some attraction for me, seeing an animal being prepared for food from scratch. No perversion.Personally, I can't decide who's more hypocritical whether vegetarians, who go against human omnivorous nature, or omnivores who refuse to watch or acknowledge the animals/processes that they feed from. What kind of animal is man that he can't come to terms with what he eats?
Great articles and photos btw!
- #48
- Answered by fx
Jean, thanks for dropping by! I think we must leave vegetarians to their sensibilities, after all if they don´t want to kill animals to feed themselves, this is their choice and there has been for thousand years men who lived without eating any meat. But those who eat meat should not condemn the slaughtering, otherwise they are just a bunch of holier-than-thous.- #49
- Comment by BARDET Philippe
Hi François Xavier,I am the guide mentioned in your great article. Thanks for saying that I am a good one ! You gave my cell phone number to your readers and plenty of them call me but to mention my e-mail address as well should be more practical I guess if you don't mind.( philbardet@hotmail.com ) Thank you in advance. I recently visited the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. I had been invited by Mr Keiichi Suzuki President of Tsukiji Uoichiba one of the main wholesalers, a wonderful trip into the Japanese seafood world.
Best regards.
Philippe
- #51
- Comment by Leigh Doy
I found your artical on Rungis very interesting and would like ti know if you could help me. I am a supplier of cheeses in the UK and would like to visit Rungis cheese market on a monthly basis to buy cheeses wholesale. Can you advise on how I sould go about this please. I did try your link for an official buyers pass but it did not work.Kind Regards
Leigh Doy
Tel 44 (0) 1787473647
- #52
- Comment by judith hamery
Speaking as a photographer and not a gourmet, I would like to thank you for saving me a visit to Rungis, where I had been dreaming of going for the past year or two. It is far too antiseptic and hygienic for my photographic taste. For incredible photos, I recommend you visist a "wet market" next time you are in asia, or any outdoor market in Burma/Myanmar, for instance. If i had gotten up at such an ungodly hour to see those seas of cartons, I would have kicked myself, especially as I am allergic to oysters. Your photos are excellent, however, as you found all the interesting bits, and I enjoyed looking at them.- #53
- Comment by mukul
Its really a great eye opener.. i will try to visit rungis in October. I wanted to know more about being a buyer.. i mean through a registration process. the Links lead to pages which do not give this info.. Help if you can, otherwise i will go to paris and find out more..- #55
- Comment by Maurice Snow
Coming to France in 2012, will definately drop in to take a better look.To all the vegetarians,
If God did not want us to eat animals ,
he would not have made them out of meat !
- #57
- Comment by Marisa
Me parecio muy bueno el articulo Hace muchos años que con mi marido queremos ir a Rungis.asique despues de leer su articulo pienso que puedo hacerlo.M Bardet habla español? Yo no estare un 2° viernes de mes, sera facil hacerlo otro dia?Le agradeceria me ayude a elegir Gracias por sus consejos.
Lo saludo Marisa Barbosa
- #58
- Comment by ELI
yo quiero ir a rungis,soy vendedora de fruta, es muy dificil registrarse? puede hacerlo en em mismo momento allí?hay mucha dificultad para llegar desde el centro de paris al mercado? hay algún transporte publico?
- #59
- Comment by Andrew
I think if you'd checked in the seafood section you'd have found that much of the seafood would have come from Scottish ports. Truckloads of fresh produce get sent from Scottish ports to France and Spain.Nice report, does look like a great place to visit.
- #60
- Comment by Mexico Cooks
I am wildly impressed with your article. I arrived at your page courtesy of a Google search for the elusive oca tuber (it's obviously a quite round-about way to get to Paris) but, boy, am I glad I did. I hope you will enjoy Mexico Cooks!, where you will see also see photos of pig heads and various entrails for sale in the markets.- #61
- Comment by Noel Kearney
Visited Paris last week but could not find any way to get to Rungis. Your article was a great way to see what it was all about. Excellent photographs.- #62
- Comment by Tina
Thank you for your article. I will be going to Paris in early October, and as a chef instructor in the U.S. I am anxious to see as much of Rungis as I can. I have also been in contact with Philippe regarding the tour. Do you recommend his services? I am a little hesitant about booking things on-line sight unseen.- #63
- Comment by CESAR A. RODRIGUEZ CORONADO
Primnero que todo quiero darle la gracias por toda y muy buena informacion en español, Nosotros somos una Cia. que estamos en Panama Rep. de Panama nos gustaria saber si podiamos hacer un contacto con alquien que este dentro de Rungis o que tenga acceso a ellos para venderles desde Panama cualquier Producto (con los requisitos que se requieran) adicional nosotros sabemos que Rungis envio unas semillas para Surinam para que la siembren alli y ellos compran todos los productos NOS GUSTARIA VER SI PODEMOS HACER LO MISMO PERO AQUI EN PANAMA Ya que tenemos tierras para sembrar con los requisitos que se requiera.Desde Panama podemos hacer todos lo envios que Rungis requiera.
Nuevamente los felicitos por toda las explicaciones y esta bien llevado su articulo
- #64
- Comment by COOPPINDESTE
I still impressed of all kindness and organization, i us there last may, Rungis is spectacular, fruit vegetable every thins us wanderfull, hope to be there very sun againt- #65
- Comment by laura
Hola! despues de tu buena experiencia en el mercado de rungis, te queria preguntar si es interesante para mi que tengo floristeria, y me gustaria comprar complementos .Vale la pena ir? o solo es interesante para gourmets!!( Hay una zona de regalos o complementos de floristeria) cómo llegar, identificación etc )
Muchas gracias!! espero tu opinión
Laura
- #66
- Comment by Danielle
The slaughterhouse for a metropolis! I think it used to be right in the center of Paris where Les Halles is now. There are also many smaller markets where you can buy fresh meat and cheese and vegetables right in the city everyday.- #68
- Comment by Florian Blümm
Rungis is huge, but Central de Abaston in Mexico City is bigger.- #70
- Comment by Heather
Really enjoyed this article about Rungis - I'm a chef and would really love to visit one day!! Agree the meat market may not be for the faint-hearted but if we respect the animal by cooking it well who are we to say whether it's right or wrong. Will try and find your piece on Tokyo now!