Wood Fired Chestnut Pancakes NecciHome >> Recipes
Text-only version printed fromhttp://FXcuisine.com/default.asp?Display=256 This is a recipe I have discovered a year ago and took me a full year to get right. But now I cook it almost once a week so simple, quick, delicious and spectacular it is. I discovered this recipe a year ago in books about obscure regional specialties of the Montagne Pistoiese. There are a number of canonical variations which Italians cook with religious precision in several villages. In essence, these are unleavened 100% chestnut flour pancakes cooked between two very hot metal discs placed in a wood fire. It took me a year to get it to work but if you have a wood fire this makes a delicious breakfast, tea or supper in very little time and a most memorable pancake for your guests. Most people cook this in a pan on a normal stove, but it really makes a big difference to do it over a wood fire if you have a chance. The batter is made by mixing cold water and chestnut flour in equal parts by weight. That is, you mix 500gr of chestnut flour with 5dl of water. No eggs, no baking powder, no yeast, no salt, no sugar, no nothing. This is the only recipe using 100% chestnut flour that does not end up being a christian choker, but an extraordinarily sweet and fragrant delight instead. The chestnut flour is naturally so sweet that people will not believe you did not add any sugar. drop the flour in a bowl... ... and add the same weight in cold water. Mix thoroughly with a hand whisk, or better with a hand blender. Leave the dough to rest for an hour or so, until all the flour is hydrated. You need to have a rather thick, syrupy consistency - just add some more water until the flour will drink no more. Now for the cooking, I am sorry to say this is one of those cases where a frying pan on a cooker will not yield the same results as the medieval looking ferri per i necci. These are just a pair of flat iron discs with long handles. In the few shops in this part of Italy that carry this most unusual item, they sometimes have two sizes and a handmade version (here displayed) and a machine cut one. You can very easily order such an item from any water-jet steel cutting outfit. I would go with 3mm thick regular steel, 40cm handles and 23cm diameter. You need the steel to be a bit porous to be able to season it, I don't see how stainless would work here. I do know that I will be flooded by comments in the style of "Ah but my mama is from such and such pistoiese village and she does it on a stovetop, therefore ferri are superfluous", but I tried both and the result on the fire does lend a smokiness that makes a difference. You first need to season/cure your iron ferri per i necci. Best I found is to mix an egg yolk (or several) with oil and roll a cotton towel in a cigar shape and use it to pat the hot steel discs. You can see how it's done in my French Crepes video. alternatively, use a flat piece of bacon to rub it until smooth. This can take some time. If you have handmade ferri they are not flat and you might find that only one side of each ferro will stick close enough to the other, so you choose your side and from now both opposite faces will be facing the fire. Start by heating your ferri in the fire. No need to wait until they get red hot or even bend in the fire, all you want is them hot enough to melt the bacon you'll rub. I'd say start with 10-30 seconds or so and then let the ferri tell you when they are too hot. Rub the inside faces with a piece of bacon or pancetta... ... then pour a ladleful of batter inside. Start with about 50 millilitres for a 20cm pancake (1/5 cup for an 8'' pancake). I reckon the temperature of the ferri at this stage is between 160C and 200C whenever I measured (320-400F). Then close the other ferro like a lid, oiled face down, and use a piece of wood to press it down in several places to squeeze your pancake flat. No need to add a weight, the batter does not spring back (!). As you do this an intriguing squeal will come out as the batter protests by sendin jets of vapor... Put the two ferri back on the fire for a maximum of about 60 seconds, turning them upside down halfway through. If you seasoned your ferri like Francois told you to, and oiled them with pancetta before each neccio, after a few trials your necci will peel right off without further ado. One of the traditional condiments for necci is based on a piece of ricotta... ... which you reduce to a paste using a fork ... ... then season with rose water... ... just a drop will do ... ... some cream to make it smoother ... ... and as much sugar ... until you have a nice, smooth mixture. After you fill it, you can add a little strawberry jam for color ... ... and finally fold it and serve. Necci were traditionally eaten with cheese and salumi by Tuscan peasants, but the canonical form today is to serve the necci with ricotta mixed with sugar and some rose water. Very light and delicious! But unless you are from the Frati della Strettissima Osservanza della chiesa del Slow Food, you can definitely change the dish to use it with many cool toppings such a strawberry jam. The taste is really amazing and since they cook quickly in such a poetic and visually arresting way, it makes for the kind of entertainment one nevery really tires of. 142687 views |
60 Comments
- #1
- Comment by Ari
There are no such ferri or wood fires where I am, but thank you for letting us cook necci with you through the beautiful pictures and witty write up!- #3
- Comment by Adrian urlea
First of all, it is a very pleasant surprise to see you back.I might not have the wood fire and the cast iron plates but you gave me an idea about what I am going
to do with a jar of chestnut puree...I believe I am going to turn it into a batter for pancakes...
Thank you and best regards.
Adrian
- #5
- Comment by Clarisa
Welcome back! Thanks for the recipe!- #7
- Comment by Randi
This looks amazing! Can't wait to try these at home.Those photos are gorgeous. Welcome back!
- #9
- Comment by Cesar
Que alegria tu vuelta!!! es lo mejor de la semana!! fantastico! espero que publiques unos reportajes tan buenos como antes.Un saludo!!
- #11
- Comment by Bi
I have ATTEMPTED to make this flour, since my grandma has a large chestnut tree. I used them cooked (since it was what I had at hand at that moment, processed and then dried in a pan (I'm sure it was not the best way to obtain the flour, but it yielded some interesting results) I have tried making raviolis with a mix of white flour and the chestnut flour. Hard dough to work with, but results were really good.- #13
- Comment by Francois
Great photography. Especially the first shot. Beautifully lit. I have been making socca which is essentially the same thing. I add espelette, olive oil and herbes de Provence to the mix and also cook over an open fire. I prefer them plain but used to serve them as an amuse bouche with whipped goat cheese and ratatouille made from brunoised vegetables.- #15
- Comment by Hazri
Welcome back Francois! :)I am at lost for words knowing you are back.
Good to see you back. *cries*
- #17
- Comment by David
Looks great ! So glad you're back !!! Keep up the good work !!!- #19
- Comment by Sganarelle
So glad you're back FX! I see the photography on this site is as stunning as ever!- #21
- Comment by Ian
Welcome back! lovely to see you posting again, I enjoy everything you share with us and look forward to reading many more.Greetings from Canada :)
- #23
- Comment by David
I missed you so much! :-) Welcome back!- #25
- Comment by Calliope
Welcome back dear FX. It feels as nothing has changed: the superb photographs and the extraordinary tools and recipes. Thank you for giving me back the pleasure of reading your blog.- #27
- Comment by Nikki
Your timing is wonderful, Francois, it is great to see you back! Now that I have more idle time, it's a chance to be able to follow you again and try your recipes. I missed doing that, especially since you're one of the few bloggers I like to follow. Sending lots of hugs to you!- #29
- Comment by David
Very happy you're back and publishing fascinating articles again! If FX Cuisine was a half hour format TV show, it would have a big following (hint). A book or e-book of your food adventures would also be fun and make a great gift for foodies. I know I sound like a capitalist pig but learning about the culture of food is so much more interesting than just watching someone cook. You do it well. Glad you're back!- #31
- Comment by Catherine
FX, how great to see you back! I hope this will be a long-term return!- #33
- Comment by buzz
so glad to see you post! in our house we a "i wonder what happened to fxcuicisne" conversation a few times a year!- #35
- Comment by Burt
Welcome back! Very happy to see you blogging again. I'm looking forward to drooling over your postings.- #37
- Comment by Cynthia
Francois! My friend, it is so wonderful to see you back online. You were missed. Looking forward to more of your excellent work and adventures.- #39
- Comment by Patrick
Welcome back! your photos are as beautiful and your article is as precise and dryly funny as ever I heard that you had climbed a mountain to find a bunch of herbs, carrying only a small knife and 20kg of photography gear and had not been heard from since.- #41
- Comment by Daniel
Querido Francois,Que bueno verte de vuelta y poder disfrutar de tus tan especiales aportes, tu mundo magico, estetico y sabroso.
Desde las colinas de Judea te deseo prolificidad culinaria
- #43
- Comment by ivan
Welcome back. Great to see your bright writing style, and great photos!- #45
- Comment by Erika
I am *extremely* happy to see you posting again! Keep the posts coming!- #47
- Comment by Mads
I sit one morning with my te, and suddenly the are two post showing in my rss feed that i must use three seconds to understand where come from. And now you are back!!It was such a big loss when you stopped.
Welcome welcome welcome, and thank you!
- #49
- Comment by Brindusa
Chestnuts flour? I didn't know that this type of flour really exists. And I found it here too! Thanks.- #51
- Comment by JasonBB
Thank you for coming back. I always enjoyed your posts and the beautiful photos. I have been seeing recipes for a few different things that contain chestnut flour for many years and these beautiful photos have inspired me to hunt some down in my city (Portland, OR) Thanks again and happy cooking.- #53
- Comment by James
Finally! You've inspired me many times over the years (not only to cook some things in your post, but also to visit some of the places) and I am glad you're back, so I can formally say thank you! No idea where you went but you could start a post where we commentators can post our theories . . . just an idea!- #55
- Comment by Ruth
What a pleasure to have you back, FX. Thanks for doing the work and come up with beautiful pictures and an interesting story. Love it! Thank you from Australia.- #57
- Comment by Bill Hanscombe
Dear FXIt's wonderful to have you back!
like so many of your followers, I have missed you blogs, and I am greatly inspired by them.
But wishes
WLH
- #59
- Comment by Amit chawdhary
Hi I am glad and very thankful to you for a comeback , I have an tip for seasoning the pan and make it non stick which I learned during my training time when I was in college.Take one egg with the shell and slice one red onion medium size including the outer skin heat the pan and spread the slice onions on the pan and break 1 egg with shell and spread evenly let it burn untill the onions and eggs turns black.
Remove it after some time and wash it with running water
Your pan is ready to use now.