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Malakoff - Dedos de Queso Suizos

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Estos dedos de queso fritos, que toman su nombre de la toma de Malakoff durante la Guerra de Crimea, son la bomba calórica más deliciosa que he probado.

Los lectores regulares de FXciuinse han disfrutado leer acerca de bombas calóricas fritas, como la Piza Frita Napolitana Neapolitan Deep-Fried Pizza y su prima escocesa Scottish cousin o el Caramelo Frito Deep-Fried Candy Bar.  Hoy permítanme probar una cucharada de mi propio chocolate y presentarles los malakoff, una especialdad de mi tierra, Suiza.

Se dice que esta receta fue traída a casa por los Soldados suizos que fueron reclutados por los franceses durante la Guerra de Crimea, una aventura militar en la linda tradición de la Primera Guerra Mundial y del Debacle Iraquí.  Esta receta conmemora la toma de Malakoff, en Ucrania, en 1855.  Es una receta muy típica del Cantón de Vaud, en la ribera norte del Lago Ginebra. 

 

Malakoff [mahlah-COUGH]
Dedos de queso fritos estilo Suizo
300gr queso duro*
1 botella de vino blanco (Suizo si lo encuentras)
2 huevos
150gr harina
Sal
Aceite para freir
Un estómago fuerte

*El queso que escojas no debe tener agujeros, ni partirse facilmente, pero eso si, debe fundirse adecuadamente.  Aquí utilicé un Gruyere del tipo Etivaz, un  queso sin pasteurizar de los valles alpinos, que es el Bentley de los quesos.  Pero puedes hacerlo con otros tipos de queso. 

Pídele a tu quesero que corte el queso al menos 1.25 cm/1" de grueso.  Quita la costra y pártelo cuidosamente en rebanadas del mismo grueso.  Favor de notar que a veces esto se hace con rebanadas de queso y se obtiene una especie de filete de queso frito. 

En un plato, baña el queso con vino blanco.  Cúbrelo y dájalo marinar una hora a temperatura ambiente.

Mientras, prepara la masa mezclando 150 gr de harina con 2 dl/200gr de vino blanco. 

Bate hasta que no haya grumos de harina visibles y logres una masa uniforme y espesa.  Agrega harina si la masa está demasiado líquida - querermos que la masa se adhiera al queso.

 

Cúbrela y déjala reposar una hora.

Bate a picos duros 2 claras de huevo e incorpóralas delicadamente  a la masa, una vez que ésta haya reposado.

 

Elimina el vino usado para marinar los dedos y sécalos.  Pásalos por harina hasta que ya no estén pegajosos.  Esto lo hacemos para que la masa se adhiera a los dedos. 

Calienta el aceite a 190C°/375°F - es decir, muy caliente.

Con una pinzas de cocina, remoja un dedo de queso en la masa ...

 

... y deposítalo suavemente en el aceite, utilizando una canastilla para freir .  Aviso kármico instantáneo - si no lo haces suavemente, el aceite salpicará y te quemará. 

Frìelos hasta que tengan un bonito color dorado y pásalos a un buen montón de toallas de papel para tratar de que absorvan cuanto aceite se pueda.  Es posible que los dedos se peguen a la canastilla.  En ese caso deja que se frían completamente, retira la canastilla, déjala escurrir y solo entonces despega los dedos.  De otra manera, romperás la masa y se llenarán de aceite.  Muy nutritivos pero no especialmente saludables.

Sírvelos como entrada, con una ensalada o una sopa.  Son realmente deliciosos, con el queso ligeramente derretido en el interior y perfumados con el sabor ácido del vino blanco, en una masa crujiente de vino blanco.  Tal vez puedes organizar un concurso para ver quien puede comer más malakoffs.  

Nunca he visto este platillo en un restaurante pero la mayoría de los suizos hacen los malakoff con un queso más común, el Beignet de Vinzel, frito en una rebanada de pan.  En el menú de muchos restauranes aparece "Malakoff" pero te sirven el beignet de Vinzel y será difícil convencer a un suizo que le han llamado incorrectamente toda su vida.  Ahora que si uno va a terminar siendo el único en hablar correctamente, tal vez es mejor olvidarlo y adoptar la usanza comúin.  Pero entonces ¿Cómo llamaríamos a los Malakoff, si el término se usa para hablar del beignet de Vinzel? 

 


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30 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Fein
Sinful and beautifully done. Ah well, there are no cheese-mongers in my area, you call them.
  • #2
  • Comment by Alex
Makes me wish I had a deep-fryer.  
  • #3
  • Comment by lele
Have you ever tried mozzarella in carrozza??
  • #4
  • Comment by adina
But you said 2 eggs...If we use the egg-whites what happens to the yolk of the egg? I guess is placed on the flour+wine stuff? Thanks.Adina
  • #5
  • Answered by fx
Adina, you need two eggs but you use only the egg whites in the recipe.
  • #6
  • Comment by nameRon Palmer
Dear SirI visited Coeur de la Cote in Vinzel on Friday past, it was the second time I had eaten Malakoff and this time I was delighted to take my wife, we just loved this dish. We are from Scotland and I was really amused to read your comment below!!!!"Beignets de Vinzel is a cult dish from the Swiss coast of Lake Geneva. It would fit nicely into the Scottish Diet."We had a great week-end. Discovery of the trip was sprouted onion seed sprinkled on a smoked salmon salad as a starter as served at Les Allies in Lausanne.I now must search for a suitable Scottish Cheese to malakoff (a new verb for the Scottish vocabulary.) Thank you for the recipe and if you wish a little Scottish Smoked Salmon, let me know I have a little stock in Lausanne.Yours sincerelyRon Palmer Scotland
  • #7
  • Answered by fx
Dear Mr Palmer, I am most happy that at last a Scot gave our local Swiss deep-frying philosophy its fair chance! If you try with one of the fine Scottish cheeses, try to find one that is not too old (or it will give out its oil and not melt) but still hard enough to withstand the deep frying. Can you confirm they served the Malakoff (whole pieces of cheese covered in batter and deep fried) or did you have the more ubiquitous - in Vinzel at least - Beignets de Vinzel made from grated cheese? The latter are easier to made from a variety of cheeses. As for the Scottish salmon, I am a fiend for this and would be very keen on learning the location of your Lausanne stash of smoked salmon!
I hope you had fun in Switzerland and thank you for visiting my blog.
  • #8
  • Comment by Melinda
Hi!  Could you use rye flour to make these?
  • #9
  • Answered by fx
Melinda, rye is not so cool for a deep-frying batter because it has no gluten. But if gluten is the issue, then yes, by all means do and enjoy this gorgeous treat!
  • #10
  • Comment by Guruvar
Loved the tandoori chicken, gorgeous pix. My cholesterol level is out of control just looking at the lovely fried food esp fried mars bars, must make a point of going to cafe picante if I am ever in Edinburgh!Thanks,keep up the good work!
  • #11
  • Answered by fx
Guruvar, thanks for visiting and don't worry about my blog increasing your cholesterol level, it's only virtual!
  • #12
  • Comment by constantins
Thank you for offering your site and its marvellous photos. I have been looking up Malakoff recipes for years in hope of reproducing the ones I used to delect on in Luins some years ago. It seems that yours are somewhat different in shape and thickness. Would you have any suggestion on what modifications could be brought to your recipe to approximate the Luins effect? Kind regards
I, also have been looking for recipes for Malakoff for many years.  The Malakoff with which I'm familiar is mounded cheese(a combination of gruyere, appenzeller and Emmentaler, grated and mixed with flour and eggs on a very thin slice of French bread.  The cheese is mounded on the bread, making sure to "glue" the cheese to the bread, then immersed upside-down in the hot oil.  After a few minutes, a beautiful, golden-brown crust appears on the cheese.  Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and stand back as your diners attack the wonderful Malakoffs. Best served with Dijon mustard, cornichons or small dill pickles and a green salad with a light mustard vinaigrette.
  • #14
  • Answered by fx
Constantins, please read my other article about the Beignets de Vinzel which are the ones they serve in Luins under the mistaken name of "Malakoff".
  • #15
  • Answered by fx
June, please read the other article about the cheese fritters you describe. People in Switzerland call these 'Malakoffs' but this word actually describes the cheese sticks shown on this article.
  • #16
  • Comment by Alka-Seltzer
Good, surely better than scottish deep-fried burgers.
  • #17
  • Answered by fx
Aye Alka, this is made from first rate artisan cheese, unfrozen. But they have plenty of great products up there in Scotland, too bad they seem to export most.
  • #18
  • Comment by don siranni
Fx:discard the wine? How much contamination can you get from cheese?  What easily available white could I get for this Malakoff?I don't know wines;scotch whisky,yes-wine ,no.
  • #19
  • Comment by donsiranni
Francois,I can't find the old english "the forme of currye" book.I Googled it ond only found your reference here!!
  • #20
  • Answered by fx
Don, the book you are looking for is called Forme of Cury, you can see it here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forme_of_Cury
  • #21
  • Answered by fx
Don, you must use a cheap, over-the-hill, tart white wine for this. It softens the cheese, tartifies it and helps the flour stick. You wouldn't want to drink it after that, but no need to go for some refined vintage.
With the beautiful golden color the food looks so delicious.  You did so well.
  • #23
  • Answered by fx
Hong, indeed the color of this dish and the rich melted cheese that oozes out is heavenly!
  • #24
  • Comment by Suissu
Well, precisely I have organized a soiree for tomorrow night with Malakofs in a specialized restaurant in Eysins (Vaud, Switzerland). We're all cheese lovers and I must say, despite I am a slim guy, I can eat up to 7 unit of 12cm long, 8cm wide and 3 cm thick....yep, these Malakofs are not for apetizers, THEY'RE THE MAIN COURSE!
  • FX's answer→ Suissu, have fun with the malakoffs evening and don't worry about being too lean - this won't last long!

  • #26
  • Comment by baxter leveque
   31 years since leaving Vaud I finally found a recipe so I can get a Malakoff fix!!! Last time I ate them was in a restaurant on the shores of lake Geneva where they would bring them, two at a time, on a wooden paddle(like a croupiers) and would make a pencil mark on the table for the tally.

               Many thanks, Bax.
  • #27
  • Comment by Online Colleges
Wow! These look so delicious. I love cheese sticks. Can't wait to make them, thanks for the great recipe.
  • #28
  • Comment by Enrique Parra
Muy buen articulo Los acabo de probar en un restaurant L'union , deliciosos ...aunque en forma redonda ...no me acuerdo con que queso... gracias
  • #29
  • Comment by kiara
awesome love it!!!! can live on it
  • FX's answer→ So could I!




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