Nieve Sicliana de MandarinaHome >> Recetas
Text-only version printed fromhttp://FXcuisine.com/default.asp?Display=163 Esta extraordinaria nieve servida en la cáscara es un postre espectacular apto tanto para los vegetarianos cuenta calorías como para los epicureístas come trufas. Sin necesidad de cocinarlo ni de una máquina para helados, esta es una oferta que no puedo rehusar. Observa como puedes hacer nieve de cualquier cítrico y servirlo en las cáscaras vaciadas. Las nieves son para mí sinónimo de la civilización. Descaratamos la cáscara y la pulpa de una fruta para extaer el rico jugo y lo convertimos en una refrescante nieve con sabor. Reforzamos los sabores que nos gustan y domamos la acidez con un poco de azúcar. Simple y natural - un sueño de fruta llavada al frío máximo y convertida en un ligero momento de gozo extremo. Las nieves no tienen nada que ver con los helados - sin grasa y con muy poca azúcar, son casi tan saludables como el jugo mismo y mucho más divertidos de hacer y servir. Éste es un verdadero clásico siciliano. Puedes lograr resultados memorables incluso con fruta mediocre, y no necesitaas una máquina para hacer helados. Comienza con una mandarina por cada invitado, más tres para el chef - su pilón digamos. Necesitas dos limones por cada tres mandarinas, agua mineral, un poco de azúcar y agua de azahar. Con un cuchillo de sierra filoso, corta la parte superior de cada mandarina, como si fuera una tapa. No las cortes por la mitad sino que haz un corte plano del lado donde estuvieron el tallo y las hojas. Con tus dedos, con una cuchara o con un gancho, saca la pulpa cuidando de no dañar la cáscara. Ésta la queremos intacta. El primer pedazo es el más difícil, luego todo es fácil, en cuanto comienzas a ver el interior blanco de la cáscara. Coloca las cáscaras vacías en el refrigerador para endurecerlas. Prepara un jarabe con dos tazas / 500 ml de agua mineral en una olla. ¿Porqué agua mineral? Tú eres lo que bebes, por lo que si prefieres preparar tu nieve con tu mezcla personal de jugo de cañería, poción clorada de agua municipal, agua de mar y ve tu a saber que más, bienvenido. Yo utilizo Evian, del manantial de agua mineral justo al otro lado del lago donde vivo. Ésta no es agua puerca en una botella, sino agua con un contenido mineral certificado consistente año con año. Cientos de plantas de tratamiento pelean por obtener del gobierno francés esta certificación pero pocas son las que obtienen la etiqueta de 'agua mineral'. Si la etiqueta dice 'agua embotellada' o 'agua de manantial' no es la auténtica. Todos los reposteros fanceses utilizan agua mineral, para evitar el agua clorada de la llave. Pero por supuesto, tu eres libre de beber lo que quieras. Añade 100 gr/3 oz de azúcar. Remueve hasta que se disuelva toda. Puede que tengas que calentarla apenas un tantito para que toda el azúcar se disuelva, pero desde luego no tendrás que hervirla. Saquemos el jugo de nuestras mandarinas. Van pa'dentro del chino, o chinois, el colador cónico francés sin el que ninguna cocina está completa. El chinois viene con un simpático accesorio de madera, el primo de la bomba de succión para el escusado, y que socialmente es mucho más aceptable. Bombea hasta que no quede jugo. Si alguna de tus invitadas se queja de la pérdida de fibra dietética, envuélvele la pulpa seca para que se la lleve a casa. 'Sería una pena desperdiciarla', tendrás que conceder. Vacía el jugo de mandarina en el jarabe. ¿Para qué añadir jugo de limón? Lo ácido y lo dulce son de lo que se tratan las nieves. Pero lo ácido es, si me permites, el alma de la fiesta. Las mandarinas normalmente son medio sosas y les hace falta una patadita en la cola para que el postre sea el éxito que buscamos. El limón es la opción obvia, pero un chef más inclinado a la química, podría usar ácido ascórbico. Mezcla el jugo de limón con el jugo de mandarina, el agua y el azúcar. Prueba un poco ¿Suficientemente ácido? ¿Tal vez demasiado dulce? Ya sabes que hacer. Ahora nuestro toque más artero. Una gota de agua de azahar le dará otra dimensión de sabor a nuestra nieve. Pero no te pases - una gota basta o todo el menjurge olerá a agua de colonia de agente de seguros, sí, de esa que compran ya en el área de cajas del super. Ya estuvo - solo vacíala en la cubeta para hacer helado. ¿Que no tienes cubeta ni máquina? No hay problema. Ponla en un recipiente bajo y que quepa en tu refrigerador y déjala ahí hasta que casi se congele. Sácala y desmenúzala con una batidora o a mano con un tenedor, y congélala de nuevo. Haz esto un par de veces más hasta que obtengas una textura suave sin cristales visibles. Así es como lo hace la gente en Sicilia. Saca las cáscaras de mandarina del refrigerador. Toma una en tu mano - estará dura. Con cuidado rellena la cáscara de nieve. Con el desmenuzado y el líquido adicional, habrá suficiente para llenar todas las cáscaras, y te sobrará. Ponles la tapa y regrésalas al congelador hasta que estén listas. Sácalas del congelador 30 mimnutos antes de servir para que no estén tan duras. ¿Estaría mejor el postre si hubiésemos conservado las hojas de las mandarinas? ¡Pues claro! Una semana después hice una con toronjas rosas ¡Delicioso! Distinto color pero un sabor igual de encantador. Aquí no se necesitó agua de azahar. Juega con la cantidad de azúcar o no utilizes agua para lograr un sabor más intenso. Esta fue mi participación en Sugar High Friday 'Citrus' de Domestic Goddess y Tartelette. 433782 visitas |
60 comentarios
- #1
- Comment by Allen
Beautifully done, FX! This will make for a wonderful summer treat. I love the use of the shells for serving the sorbet :-)- #2
- Comment by Beatrice
Those lucky enough to get their hands on Honeybells (a specialty tangerine that can be ordered from Florida) can make a fabulous sorbet using this simple yet lovely recipe. Or you can use Mineola tangelos. Add some perfumed Meyer lemons, and you have a hit!- #3
- Comment by Claudia (cook eat FRET)
I would definitely make this...I will definitely make this! Love the addition of orange blossom. Perfecto!- #4
- Answered by fx
Allen, I regret so much not having found better looking tangerines and find now find myself scouring my local market for leaved citrus fruits for an encore!- #5
- Answered by fx
Beatrice, you do know a lot more about citrus fruits than I do! My tangerines were not platonic ideals of the perfect tangerine, they were a bit bland and needed to be revived by the addition of lemony tartness! Florida and California might be two of the few places that can beat Sicily for citrus fruits.- #6
- Answered by fx
Claudia, I really recommend you try this tangerine sorbet, it's so gorgeous and simple, your guests will most probably remember this dessert for many years!- #7
- Comment by layni
Gorgeous! Your beautiful photos make it all look so easy. Definitely a worthwhile summer experiment. This website is as lovely as it is inspiring.- #8
- Comment by gizmar
This is a lovely dessert. I've had it with the orange shell frozen - pretty special too and it keeps the sorbet from going too soft.- #9
- Comment by frank
What a nice treat! I have a mandarin garden with perhaps 40 trees and always am looking for something nice besides juice, jam and just eating them. This is it. I have actually eaten this in Italia a few times but never thought to ask how it was madeThank you
- #10
- Comment by david
Have you tried grating the outermost rind to add with sugar with the sugar? It will add another layer of flavor.- #11
- Comment by Bryan
Hi FX,The color and tonal radiance of this dish is fantastic. What a wonderful dish for spring, I will have to try this. I want to thank you for this site. An absolutely amazing resource incomparable to any other. Your dedication is truly astounding. I recently was viewing a recent post titled THE FOUR HOUR LUNCH. I personally was wondering how Crissier is as a suburb? I have been wanting to take a trip to Switzerland for a long time and your post has motivated me to try and make the trip. I was also curious on another matter attributed to your post. Rather, please don't consider me a nuisance, I was wondering if you might consider a request for a future post? Could it be at all possible to do a post on the duck you had at Phillippe Rochat? I believe it was in a Brouilly sauce. There are several reasons I ask this. One, the dish looks utterly delicious and should I not be able to make it to Switzerland I would feel hopelessly at a loss and I am willing to bet everyone who read that post would feel the same. Second, I have tried cooking duck before, and as you mention in your post, that rosy color is very hard to achieve. I was wondering if you might offer a technique for achieving this perfection. I do not think my request to be modest at all; however, I think it would provide wonderful insight into the techniques involved in cooking a duck, as well as exemplifying the extraordinary sumptuous cooking skills of Phillippe Rochat. Thanks again for dealing with my lullings and thank you for this wonderful site.
Faithful reader,
Bryan
- #12
- Comment by Donald
Nicely done Francois!I can see making this for a nice treat this summer. It should work nicely after something coming off of the grill.- #13
- Comment by Paul Mckenna
It reads brilliant and when in my Spanish villa I will try it.Do you think it would be better presented with edible silver ?
Paul
- #14
- Comment by Gayle
Here is another one I must try. Since I live in Southern California I will make it with oranges and see what happens. Am trying to keep up with all your wonderful vegetarian recipes. Thanks- #15
- Comment by rachel
it looks so good. i will have to try it tomorrow- #16
- Comment by CJ
This is really interesting, most especially since it doesn't necessarily requires an ice cream maker. I'm 14 and I really frequent your blog, and surely, this one I'm gonna excitingly share with my mom!Continue crafting great food (and drink)!
- #17
- Comment by Elizabeth
That comment about bottled water being better than city or well water makes you a complete idiot.- #18
- Comment by Luke
Wow, that sorbet looks amazing. The use of tangerines and orange blossom water reminds me of lassi I had one time made with rose hips and rosewater. Using flower water and its corresponding fruit together is a very interesting idea, but it's one I haven't seen often.- #19
- Answered by fx
Elizabeth, thanks for your delicate insight. Of course you might point out that some idiots read 'bottled water' when I write 'mineral water' and think that both are faucet water in a bottle. Clearly they must be drinking the wrong sort of water. Am I an idiot to use mineral water in my sorbets? Maybe, but then so is Pierre Hermé and most French pastry chefs. But what do they know?- #20
- Answered by fx
Layni, thanks for visiting and I hope you get to try one of these amazing citrus fruit sorbets!- #21
- Answered by fx
Gizmar, indeed you need to freeze the hollowed shell otherwise it would be far too soft, and it keeps the sorbet cold to boot.- #22
- Answered by fx
Frank, 40 mandarine trees in your garden? This sounds like the Garden of Eden! Try this sorbet, it is the easiest you can make, I just made another batch this afternoon using oranges. You don't even need to cook it!- #23
- Answered by fx
David, yes you could use the rind but that entails trusting your entrails to the long chain of people between you and the tangerine tree. If any of them sprayed pesticides, wax or soap on your tangerine, they'll end up in your belly.- #24
- Comment by Luke
In response to Elizabeth: FX didn't mention well water, but rather muncipial water with reference to the disgusting flavor of the chemicals added to keep it clean. Yet, that's all irrelevent really, because you've missed the point entirely. It's a matter of humor, dear, and you clearly have no sense of it. If this blog isn't to your liking, there's no reason to be crass, for there are thousands more out there in that vast morass we call the Blogosphere. Go be more constructive and find one to your liking.- #25
- Answered by fx
Bryan, thanks for visiting! Yes, Crissier is nowadays a suburb of Lausanne, the city opposite Evian on the Swiss shores of Lake Geneva. You can take a beautiful century-old giant paddlewheel boat and cross to Evian every hour. But it used to be a village and the restaurant is in the beautiful former city hall building. As for Rochat's ducks, they are the very best I've ever had, but I think it unlikely that he would let me document his cooking anytime soon. However in his book 'Flaveurs, there are a couple duck recipes in bigarrade or wine sauces. I confess this is not a dish I'd even trying doing at home because I fear that without numerous trials it would be quite impossible to attain anything like what he turns out at the restaurant. But I'll see what I can do.- #26
- Answered by fx
Donald, this is definitely an ideal dessert for summer, small, self-contained, intense in taste and memorable. Just remember to do it the same day, if you leave it in the freeze for a week it will start to crystallize.- #27
- Answered by fx
Paul, I don't think this sorbet needs anything by way of presentation on top of the shells with the leaves still attached if you can.- #28
- Answered by fx
Gayle in California you'll find many more citrus fruits than we do here in Switzerland, I recommend you try with strong-personality, super-tart citrus fruits for best results. Let me know how this works for you!- #29
- Answered by fx
CJ thanks for your message and don't fear to try this without an ice cream machine, it's really easy to do and you can't go wrong. Just make sure to eat it the same day, which shouldn't be a big problem since it's so good! And use a lot of lemon juice to enhance the bland tangerine taste. Good luck!- #30
- Answered by fx
Luke I think the Sicilians and North Africans would put orange blossom water in their coffee if they could. In Morroco I bought an orange blossom water sprayer used a 100 years ago to sprinkle it on guests are they arrived. In Sicily they use it in many recipes as well, but never nearly as succesfully as in this sorbet!- #31
- Comment by Jacqui
Oh this looks absolutely delicious! I'll be trying it on Tuesday if I'm lucky. No chance of finding orange blossom water here though, I'll have to do without... any suggestions for a substitute?- #32
- Answered by fx
Jacqui, you don't really need the orange blossom water, but if the tangerines you find are really bland, you might want to substitute them for blood oranges. I added a couple pictures of this made with oranges at the top and bottom of the article. Good luck!- #33
- Comment by CJ
I forgot to ask, but what is the equipment you used to extract the lemon juice and where can I buy one?- #34
- Answered by fx
CJ, you can just squeeze the juice out of the citrus fruits (whichever type you use) like you would do normally, even with a fork. I use a chinois which is a conical sieve you can buy in any professional kitchen equipment shop. Buy a solid one in stainless steel and it'll last you a lifetime.- #35
- Comment by Bob Farace
I made this tonight and love it. For some reason I keep coming back here for sorbetto recipes! Thanks, too, for the reminder: the quality of the water is as important as the quality of any other ingredient. I try to use good quality ingredients, and for water, which is a major component of a recipe like this, the stuff coming out of my kitchen tap just isn't it. Now, maybe someone that would substitute artificial vanilla for the real thing, or margarine for butter wouldn't be bothered by chlorinated/fluorinated water in their frozen dessert, but for the rest of us, the advice to use good quality water is well heeded. Now if you'll excuse me, I think I hear the voice of another one of those little tangerines calling me from the freezer . . .- #36
- Answered by fx
Bob, thanks for your comment and glad it worked for you! In fact you can omit the water altogether unless makine pure lemon sorbet, which might melt your tongue before it even reaches your bowel.- #37
- Comment by My Sweet & Saucy
What a fantastic post...the photos are great! I love the idea of serving the sorbet inside the orange, so beautiful!- #38
- Answered by fx
My Sweet, I hope you get to try this with good quality citrus fruits, it is every bit as good as it looks!- #39
- Comment by Liliana
Great dessert! I am sure I won't find the same quality of citrus fruit here in Quebec but I will make this dessert just the same. Great post and beautiful picture. Saw your picture on TasteSpotting!!- #40
- Comment by Foodaholic
Those are very impressive. I am glad I stumbledupon this as I was just thinking of a plated dessert I can make for a Bridal Shower I am hosting. I will serve these sorbets with a chocolate dipped spoon!- #41
- Comment by Simon
This looks terrific fx, I can't wait to try it. I'll definitely be careful with the orange blossom water as you say - last time I was using some my hand slipped and I put far too much in. Your desription of the taste when that happens is spot-on!- #42
- Answered by fx
Liliana, thanks for visiting, I am sure you'll end up finding some nice citrus fruit soon to try this sorbet. You are much closer to sunny California than I am!- #43
- Answered by fx
Simon, good luck for your Tangerine Sorbet and do go easy on the Orange Blossom Water or you'll end up with frozen cologne!- #44
- Comment by Tartelette
Perfect step by step tutorial to a classic treat. Thank you for your entry.- #45
- Answered by fx
Marinette Tartelette, thanks for the visit and your comment!- #46
- Comment by RPO
I have had those at restaurants. And they are absolutely delicious and look great!- #47
- Answered by fx
RPO, now you need to try it at home, much better and so easy to make if you have good tangerines!- #48
- Comment by Lyn
I had something very similar in a Sicilian owned restaurant in San Diego. It was made with a peach. The peach was hollowed out with about 1/3 inch of its outside left intact. Must be a little difficult to remove the pit without damaging the fruit though. Very delicious.- #49
- Answered by fx
Lyn I must try this peach version, we have good peaches here sometimes, must be heavenly!- #50
- Comment by paresh
delicious, looks great. i'll try it.- #51
- Comment by Debbie
I have a question where do I find orange blossom water. I live in the Ohio area and I can't find it.- #52
- Answered by fx
Debbie, you might want to order Orange Blossom water online, they must have it on Amazon.com, but you could replace it with rose water from a drugstore (check that it is labelled as edible).- #53
- Comment by RPO
I always order that in restaurants. Finally know how to make it! Love the pictures too!- #54
- Comment by Lobo
Hi FX, I'm a huge fan of your site. I tried this recipe with oranges and some fresh strawberries that I also pressed through a chinois. With a little sugar before freezing I used the fork and bowl in the freezer method. I couldnt believe how great they turned out! Thanks for the great site and keep up the great work!- #55
- Answered by fx
Lobo, I'm so glad you managed to try this recipe and it worked for you, it's really nice to know one can prepare sorbet in the middle of winter with a regular freezer! People think it's this very complicated thing, but it's the simplest and most delicious think you can make. And at parties guests are so happy to nurse each one frozen tangerine packed with delicious acidic content!- #56
- Comment by Carrie
I like your candor and honestly regarding the quality of products, water, ect...I plan to look into many more of your recipes. Also the Photos are brilliant, they help a novice like myself immensely...Thank you.Carrie
- #57
- Answered by fx
Carrie, thank you for your kind comment, I hope to include a video of this recipe in the future, that ought to be even more candid!- #58
- Comment by David
My dear sir, your recipe calls for "..two lemons for every three mandarins .." but your pictures show six mandarins & two lemons. Perhaps you would be kind enough to confirm. Thank you for so many wonderful recipes.- #60
- Comment by Andrew
How many tangerines are you using? I see the part where you tell how many per guest but not how many guest you had.Also I was wondering why you chose to use so little sugar? It seems more like a granita in that respect. You mentioned classical French methods in the use of mineral water and I expected more sugar for a sorbet, to help with softness and crystal size.
The pictures you have look like they have great texture. Just curious.
P.S. the rest of your site has occupied at least 3 hours of my time tonight. :)