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Pizza Fritta - Frittierte Pizza nach neapolitaner Art

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Folgt mir in die Küche einer Arbeiter-Pizzeria im Zentrum Neapels und seht zu, wie die traditionelle neapolitanische frittierte Pizza gemacht wird - der kultige neapolitanische Straßenimbiss. 

Pizza Fritta ist ein neapolitanischer Imbiss, der zwar nie richtig populär außerhalb Neapels wurde, aber der in Neapel selbst Kultstatus genießt. Die Idee dahinter ist recht einfach: Den Belag zwischen zwei Lagen Pizzateig geben und frittieren, bis die Pizza schon knusprig ist. Anschließend essen bis der Kalorienzähler explodiert. Keine schottische Schandtat diesmal sondern eine traditionelle neapolitanische Speise. 

Da ich Italienisch spreche, frage ich einen Ortsansässigen wo es die beste Pizza Fritta in der Stadt gibt. Jeder Neapolitaner hat da seine eigene Meinung. Ich lande in einer kleinen Arbeiterabsteige bei der Via Toledo im Zentrum Neapels. Antonio, der etwa 30 Jahre alte Inhaber, lädt mich in den Laden ein. "Ich mach dir mal ein bisschen Platz", sagte er während er seine Arbeitsbank aus Weißmarmor etwas abfegt. "Setz dich hierhin. Mach es dir gemütlich, nimm dir ruhig etwas aus dem Kühlschrank und klecker ruhig ein bisschen. Du sollst dich wie zu Hause fühlen." Ich lehnte mich zurück und beobachtete ihn von hinten im Laden aus bei der Arbeit. 

Auf diesem Bild sieht man die kleinen Teigklumpen - die haben 7-8 Stunden aufgehen müssen bevor sie diesen Zustand erreicht haben. Der Koch plattet zwei solcher Klumpen pro Pizza ab und verteilt die Ingrediente auf einen. Tomatencoulis, Mozzarella und Fleisch. 

Er nimmt die andere Pizzahälfte und bedeckt die erstere damit, während er die Teigränder andrückt. 

Jetzt fängt der Spaß an. Die gefüllte Pizza wird in ein heißes Ölbad getaucht (180-200°C). Die erste Pizza des Tages macht einen guten Eindruck da das Öl in der Fritteuse schon fast gänzlich abgekühlt zu sein schien. Aber sobald die Pizza eingetaucht wird, fängt es an zu sprudeln und die Pizza fängt an zu tanzen. 

Mit einem gigantischen Löffel schüttet der Koch Kelle nach Kelle heißen Öls über die Pizza, damit sie von allen Seiten schön gleichmäßig frittiert wird. Sehr beeindruckend!
Nach einigen Minuten entfernt er die Pizza (siehe Bild) und legt sie auf einen Durchschlag, damit das Fett abfließen kann. Dies ist auf keinen Fall eine Diätspeise. 

Antonio, der Chef, schneidet meine Pizza in vier gleiche Hälften während ich immer noch hinten im Geschäft auf der Bank aus Weißmarmor sitze - dort, wo er in der Nacht zuvor den Teig gemacht hat. Die Pizza wird sehr heiß gegessen auf einem Stück Fettpapier. Dieses Gericht wird selbst den hungrigsten Magen sättigen.

 

Die Tatsache, dass ich in die Küche eingeladen wurde und die Möglichkeit hatte, mich mit diesem netten, neapolitanischen Handwerker und seinem Freund zu unterhalten, als wäre ich irgendein Cousin, hatte etwas Magisches. Ein Anderer wäre vielleicht in die Versuchung gekommen, den vierfachen Preis zu verlangen - ich hatte keine Ahnung, wieviel so eine Pizza kostete. Nicht aber Antonio - er war einfach froh zu sehen, dass sich ein ausländischer Kunde für sein Handwerk interessierte. Ich habe mich sehr amüsiert in diesem Laden, habe etwas mit dem Inhaber und seinen Freunden, die reinkamen, geplaudert. Auch die Rechnung war mehr als ehrlich - € 3.50 - das heißt ungefähr $ 5 für so viele Kalorien, wie ich nur essen konnte! Ich denke nicht, dass die Pizza Fritta außerhalb Neapels viele Erfolge verbuchen wird, sie hat sich mittlerweile zu weit von den modischeren, leichteren Mahlzeiten entfernt. Trotzdem ein gedenkwürdiges Erlebnis!

 Pizza Fritta Da Antonio
Via Giuseppe Simonelli 58
In der Nähe der Pizza Carità auf der Via Toledo
Napoli, Italy

 


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80 Kommentare

  • #1
  • Von: Macha
And I thought deep-fried pizzas are exclusive to Scotland!
  • #2
  • Von: parshu.narayanan
Another hidden treasure unveiled by fxcusisine. Though one should probably  eat this hi-cholesterol treat just once in life - street food is a great way to experience the soul of a culture. it'll definitely be part of my 08 Tourist trip to sunny Italy.
  • #3
  • Von: steamy kitchen
Wow, I've never had deep fried pizza - it looks so amazing!
  • #4
  • Von: nutbat
Nah! This restaurant must of picked up on the idea on a trip to Scotland. Its been a mainstay of the chip shop in Scotland for Decades! Mind you theirs looks fresh ours is normally Frozen...
  • #5
  • Von: Stewart
It's not really the same as the Scottish one though, it isn't sealed.
  • #6
  • Von: pipi
Nice way to get people even fatter.Great work!
  • #7
  • Von: Tom Legrady
How is that different from the calzone that's been available here in Toronto for the last 20 years or so?Without the innards, just fried bread dough, "langos" is a treat at Hungarian excursion sites, and is sold in Toronto at the CNE annual fair as 'Beaver Tails'.
  • #8
  • Beantworted von fx
Stewart, the pizza is indeed sealed before frying.
Tom, a calzone is not fried but baked like a regular pizza, and it is made by folding in two a single disc of dough. You are right about beaver tails, these are also deep-fried bread dough dishes, although not stuffed I think. Thank you for your visit and comment!
  • #9
  • Von: Kebob
Still no match for the deep fried donor kebab though... You can't touch Glasgow when it comes to frying.
  • #10
  • Von: taresa
This is very simular to what is served in Brindisi Italy, just below Naples. It is called Fritelle there. I wish I could find a recipe for it.
  • #11
  • Von: Andrew
In Ontario you can get something called a Panzarotti which is a pizza folded over into a pocket much like a Calzone and deep fried.  It's usually served with a good helping of dipping sauce.    Of course the best ones I've had were in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario which has a large Italian population and a lot of other good food.  
  • #12
  • Von: ben
In Waukesha WI at a place called Jimmy's Grotto, they have a deep fried pizza called a Panzarotti, it's fabulous.
  • #13
  • Beantworted von fx
I have looked up the Italian-American dish called Panzarotti and it is apparently a worthy cousin of Pizza Fritta. Made with only one disc of dough, it must have half the calories, so you can eat two.
  • #14
  • Von: Nick
"Not a Scottish atrocity" - What is it then if it is not deep fried pizza, atrocious only in its unhealthy amount of fat?
  • #15
  • Von: GonzoLiga
I was going to mention Fritelle but taresa got there first.  The ones I knew on the Boot Heel were like a calzone (folded-over dough), fried and served uncut, for about USD $3 equivalent.  A couple of places offered a list of ingredients to choose from, but most places in the region simply used ham, tomato sauce and cheese.  Brings back a lot of memories, including trying to find one open when you're hungry and it's just at the end of siesta, and they all seem to be on back streets.
  • #16
  • Von: Terrell Garrett
It looks and sounds delicious.  I will attempt to duplicate one.  I am a retired professional chef and I think I can duplicate it.  I am certainly going to try.
  • #17
  • Von: Foo
Scotland's been munching the deep fried pizza since the 60's mate!
  • #18
  • Von: Katy
Italy - specifically Naples has been deep frying pizza FOREVER, not just since the '60's! It's where and how pizza originated. My nonna is from Naples and she cooks normal pizza that way. Pizza dough , shaped into a mini pizza, deep fried, fresh tomato sauce on top and cheese. Delicious. Light and fluffy like you wouldn't believe. Yum Yum.
  • #19
  • Von: derosa
Grandma used to make fried pizza every few weeks. Same way #18 Katy's Nonna does.  She has long left us but my son's eyes light up like mine did 40 years ago when he sees me making the dough.  Clearly Antonio (and I bet, many of his customers) has no problem with the calories.  Moderation and exercise, and you can eat anything your whole long life.  It's not the food, it's how it's consumed that is the problem.  So, why let some calories and fat (try pan frying in olive oil) be a focus of this article?  
  • #20
  • Von: amanda
You wouldn't happen to deliver to the US would you? That looks yummy!  
  • #21
  • Von: joe
spent a couple of years in Italy. (79-81) used to be a little bar on a small backstreet outside of Agnano navy base that was owned/operated by a US navy retiree that stayed there. used to go there for a couple of brews and "deep fried pizza". Yum, yum, boy sure miss those days and the great "cuisine".
  • #22
  • Von: Matt
Wow... I'm surprised that's not something we came up with here in the US.  I have to say I think pizza is fatty enough with all the cheese (not that I don't love pizza). Sometimes... it's okay to NOT fry something :-)
  • #23
  • Von: Debbie
They DO have something like this in the US.  In the Philly suburbs they make whats called an Inside out (an IO if u will).
  • #24
  • Von: Jennifer
They have something like this in the US--they're called Pizza Puffs, which are usually deep-fried. Not hoity-toity by any stretch of the imagination, but the principle of the dish is rather similar. You can also get them at many cheap, greasy fast-food places.
  • #25
  • Von: TomsDav
Cool site. I'll gladly sign your guestbook.  :)
  • #26
  • Von: mauro
Great site! I make a pretty mean ragu' alla bolognese, according to my american and italian friends, but I am very intrigued by the Neapolitan kind. Will make it very soon.I also like very much the "scugnizzi" pictures e la pasta al vento. I have an old book about Naple with great photos hand tinted and some are of the mangia maccaroni. Would you like a copy? My daughter will help me transmit as a file. Again: Well Done.Mauro
  • #27
  • Von: mauro
My post related to the Ragu' Napolitano not to the fried pizza . Sorry. Mauro
  • #28
  • Beantworted von fx
Thank you Mauro, I am glad other people are as taken with Naples as I am! Definitely if you could email me a copy of the book you mention to fx@fxcuisine.com I would be most happy. Happy New Year!
  • #29
  • Von: Mildred Cavallini
My grandmother from Naples made a Pizza Frite topped with a basilico sauce. I think I may be the only one left who makes it.  Fresh basil, cut, fried in garlic and olive oil and when cooked, add some cooked plumb tomatoes, cook tillwell mixed.  Serve on freshly fried Pizzas. I make it when ever I can get enough basilico.Ciao
  • #30
  • Beantworted von fx
Mildred, how do you make the pizza that you fry? In how much oil do you fry it? Your recipe sounds delicious!
  • #31
  • Von: Tara
Interesting article but does no one else notice the Confederate battle flag in the Domi Shoes sign in the second picture?  
  • #32
  • Von: rprebel
I love it! I can't believe this hasn't caught on in the South (I'm in TX). Actually, I'm surprised we didn't think of it first...us, or Scotland.
  • #33
  • Beantworted von fx
Rprebel, it is never too late. Perhaps Texan deep-fried pulled-pork pizza? How about deep-fried burritos?
  • #34
  • Von: Kevin
It's a double-sized Panzerotti/Calzone that we can get around Toronto if you go to the right pizza places. Most chain stores don't but Panzerotto Pizza offers their baked or deep fried. Damn tasty, but you don't live long if you make a habit of it.
  • #35
  • Von: Martinos
Shut up! All of you! It is a Panzeroto, as I tried in Toronto many years ago (and have not forgotten) It is excellent. I now live in London and still keep talking about it. A Calzone is Baked, Dumbass! Scottish deep fried pizza is just a cheap pizza dipped in hot oil - how is that the same thing?
  • #36
  • Beantworted von fx
Martinos, indeed calzone is baked, but in some places outside Italy they mix up the Italian and some readers might have seen a very similar dish with the wrong name. As I understand it, the deep-fried pizza sold under the name 'panzeroto' is a disc of dough *folded* in half before frying, whereas neapolitan pizza fritta is made from *two* discs of dough pressed flat against each other. But pizza is a field of strong opinions and I'll gladly leave you to yours!
When I was younger and living in NJ we used to go to the local pizza place and get something similar to this.  Just looking at the pictures, brought me right back to my earlier stomping grounds.  Thanks for the post I am going to be craving this for days!
  • #38
  • Beantworted von fx
Christine, thanks for visiting! I'm glad to hear my little article took you for a ride on Memory Lane!
My mom's grandmother, so Neapolitan that she never learned English, used to feed my mom and her brother this for breakfast when they were kids.  
  • #40
  • Beantworted von fx
Jess, thanks for contributing this family memory and I hope you get to eat this once!
  • #41
  • Von: Michael
Although the fryer in the one photo made me cringe a little, I'm still helpless to noticing my mouth watering at the sight of this lovely looking pizza. I hope that I get to try this sometime soon, perhaps if I feel very adventurous I could bring out my own fryer and give this an attempt!
  • #42
  • Beantworted von fx
Michael, good luck if you try to make the pizza, I think the hard part is the dough. Make sure you use enough oil so that you can fully immerse it when deep-frying. 'Deep' is the operative word here!
  • #43
  • Von: Ernest
In Calabria they call it pizetta just deep fried thinly rolled pizza dough which then is covered with warm tomto sauce and grated parmesan....great food
  • #44
  • Beantworted von fx
Ernest, I ought to try these Calabrese pizzete! Is the dough rolled like a cigar?
  • #45
  • Von: pierrot
DOWN TO PRACTICALS: Could anyone please provide me with a recipe for this? Many thanks in advance, Pierrot
  • #46
  • Von: Ernest
No, not like a cigar, just thin pizza dough about 5 inches in diameter and deep fried for about 40 seconds then covered with tomatoe sauce and fresh parmesan and served immediately
  • #47
  • Von: Alka-Seltzer
Extra dish!
The pizza fritta can be done also with a single layer of dough and nothing else, just salted after the frying.
  • #48
  • Von: martin
Reminds me of traditional Hungarian langos...
  • #49
  • Von: Judy
Thank you for the fried pizza article which, I believe, answers a misapprehension that I have had for decades.  Our family lived in Rome in 1970 and saw such fried pizzas but folded in half and never advertised with a name.  When we returned to the U.S. and began to see baked calzones we assumed they were the same things we had seen in Rome but Americanized by being baked instead of fried.  Now I know better and the mystery of decades is solved.  
  • #50
  • Beantworted von fx
Judy I will try to write an article some day about the deep-fried calzones, yet another version of this. Baked calzones are very different, the crust is crispy in that case.
  • #51
  • Von: Shiladitya
Yummy ! From the outside this looks exactly like a bhatoora ,
a fillingless Indian deep fried flatbread (like a poori but made with leavened yogurt-based dough and larger in size) traditionally served with spicy chana (curried chickpeas). Being especially popular in Delhi, chances are that you have already encountered it on one of your trips to India.
If not, its never too late!
Regards ,
Shiladitya

  • FX's answer→ Indeed it looks very much like one of the many stuffed deep-fried Indian breads!

  • #53
  • Von: Frank Mancuso
Hi,
I just discovered your website and have enjoyed looking at the various articles.
I would appreciate knowing what type of camera you use to get such great photographs.

Thanks,

Frank Mancuso
  • FX's answer→ Frank I normally shoot with a Nikon D300 and a Nikon D80, but for this article I had to use a compact Canon DigitalIxus/PowerShot. The problem is that in downtown Naples you really will have your camera snatched from you when walking the streets, so I used shoelaces to tie my little compact around my neck and placed it below my shirt just above my ample pizza cemetery. If you want to buy a camera try to get an SLR (where you can remove the lens) and poke out the included flash.

  • #55
  • Von: Geoff Ball
mmmm.... looks wonderful.

In Novarra up in Piedmonte, I can remember getting Calzones that aren't too different to the deep fried Pizza above. They were just smaller.  

Worlds apart from what North America we calls Calzones.
  • FX's answer→ Geoff calzones are discs of dough folded in half, usually baked like pizzas. I find them horribly dry with an impossibly hot interior, but it's a fun variation to order from time to time, I guess!

The calzones made in my favorite restaurant (Cafe Pesto, Hilo) are not at all dry and served, cut in half so not terribly hot inside, and with a variety of wonderful fillings.  I'd like to try these deep fried pizzas though.  You do an excellent job with your blog.  Keep up the good work!
  • FX's answer→ Thanks Claudia, glad you liked it!

  • #59
  • Von: Jacqueline  Sharp
I'm Italian too.  Guess what" I had this type  of "pizza" when I was a kid!!  
Anyway, when I was in Italy I ran into various kinds of fried pizza by various names in different parts of Italy.  Hey, it was all great!!! No need to argue abhout who invented it first, just enjoy!   
  • FX's answer→ Jacqueline, deep-fried pizza must indeed be very popular with little kids, a fond childhood memory no doubt!

  • #61
  • Von: Holly
Love this! I found it when Googling for a fried pizza I had as a child in OH. They were called them "ponzos" and basically were fried small calzones instead being baked. They were made at a donut shop and sold in the evenings only. Oh, they were great!

As for them being like the Scottish ones, HOW?? From all I've seen, the Scottish ones are just cheap pizzas cut up, dipped (sometimes) in batter, and refried. This is like a fried pie or a ... well ... fried calzone. A filled donut. No use of already cooked items like a twice-baked potato. Nothing alike! Is there another kind in Scotland??

For those who think this is so evil and a way to make people fatter, get real. If you don't want to eat it, don't. Or eat a salad earlier in the day. How is this any worse than an empanada, a samosa, a fried ravioli, etc.??
  • FX's answer→ Yes these are really a slow food specialty, nothing like the Scottish variety!

  • #63
  • Von: Howard
A variation of this that I came up with is to make a ragu of italian sausage, mushrooms, tomato paste, basil, oregano, salt pepper water and cook for 1/2 hour until thickened.  Cool and mix with chopped fresh mozzerella.  Make pizza dough  and stuff small balls of dough (2 - 3 inch) with mixture.  Roll until round and sealed.  Do not flatten.  Put in 2 inches of hot oil (370F) and cook for 5 minutes on each side.  Eat hot or cold with a dipping marinara sauce.  This is similar to "arancini di riso", but made with dough instead of rice.
  • FX's answer→ Thanks for your input about the pizza fritta Howard!

  • #65
  • Von: Axel
Hi, thanks for the pictures and recipes. I love napoli and i love pizza fritta.
I have mostly encountered a different version there, stuffed with only ricotta cheese and bacon.(i personally prefer ricotta over mozzarella) I always buy these on the market near the traqin station.
  • FX's answer→ Yes, they make many sorts, some shops called Frigittoria specialize in deep-fried delicacies of every type.

  • #67
  • Von: Carrie Chastain-Little
I love that you have this recipe!! I lived in Naples for 3 years and these are a favorite.  I just have one question - how do you make the tomato coulis?  I have tried making just a plain tomato one at home and it never tastes the same.  I love it so much that I rarely eat American pizzas now because there sauce is so bad.  Help!!
  • FX's answer→ Well you need proper tomatoes that have seen real earth and a lot of sun. In my parts these usually come inside cans. Then use onion, garlic, fresh oregano and olive oil. Cook for a long while to destroy the tartness and don't add any sugar. Good luck!

  • #69
  • Von: Joan
It seems the higher the calories, and the higher the oil content, the tastier the food is. There is even deep-fried sushi in New Zealand, and in the Philippines, deep-fried hard-boiled duck eggs - I suspect for left-overs that were not sold in their original state.
  • #70
  • Von: JP
Pizza fritt' has been a staple of our family as long as I can remember.  Everyone else calls it "fried dough" and piles on the sugar, we had it with sauce and cheese.  I became something of a hero at our college coffee shop when i showed my not-at-all-italian boss how I could make eight $2 servings from the same pound of dough that made a $5 pizza...
  • FX's answer→ Sounds like sound business! How about the cost of the oil though?

  • #72
  • Von: Pam
I lived in Brindisi in the late 60's, early 70's.  I remember something called Frittelis that I think are close to this Pizza Fritta recipe.  They were so delicious.  I have been trying for a while to find a recipe for these.  Can you send me the exact recipe, if possible.  Thanks.  
  • #73
  • Von: MikeBR
This looks like a copy of the world famous Scottish deep fried pizza that has been made in Glasgow since the 1960's Avalable in all Italian pizza/fish & chips shops in Scotland
  • #74
  • Von: Sharon
We were stationed at San Vito Dei Normani Air Station in the 70's,  loved to stop in San Vito on the way to Carovigno at night, to pick up a Fritelli - fresh deep fried pizza on our order, we always got ham, cheese, artichokes, olives.  I still remember the smell and taste and have had nothing like it since.   It was a little street vendor shop.  If anyone's seen a recipe, would love to know
  • #75
  • Von: Bill Van Riper
The nice Italian mothers of my classmates at the parochial school I attended in the early to mid 60's would make pizza fritte two or three times a year for charity (instead of a more traditional bake sale.)  We kids would have one or two with tomato sauce and then follow it with one for dessert with powdered sugar.  They were small enough that three of them were not too much to eat.
  • #76
  • Von: ben
Fantasised about eating this whilst running the Naples Marathon, it was delicious - and probably more calories than I burned!
  • FX's answer→ Ah well you should not do too much calorie accounting while running that might get your head spinning! I tend to serve deep-fried calorie bombs in small portions with huge helpings of soup and salad to keep myself eating more of the caloricious bit!

I'm not sure what the obsession with "calories" is about, but it betrays a lack of appreciation for real food culture.  Italians have been making and eating street foods since there were streets, in Italy.  It's prepared quickly from real ingredients just like you can see in this whole article (and  you must have learned that from the proprietor).  The difference between this and the "fast foods" we know of as junk is that here, the oil is probably an animal fat, the ingredients used are real grains for the flour, real yeast (likely from a starter that's maintained, cause that's the least expensive way and yet the best way), and real vegetables and sausage that someone close by or in the business itself made or even grew themselves.  Whatever the caloric count, I'd bet my last breath that it still comes under the count for a Big Mac, which is basically all produced in a lab somewhere and re-assembled by the underpaid all over the world, out of the supposedly "healthy" ingredients we've been told to substitute for the real stuff. You can have foods that have a ton of energy value in them and still eat extremely healthy food, even if frying is involved, as all people who still maintain their food traditions know.  Beware the vast amount of misinformation we've been force fed about nutrition, from a Medical "science" that involves little or no science, and displays even less respect for food traditions that have not only allowed a people to survive for millennia, but to thrive and flourish, and not just bodily.   
  • #79
  • Von: lili
hi,
i tasted it when i was in Napoli, it was unbelievable!
i hope to find a restaurant here in London but i cant find any!!!
thank you for the nice photos, it is like we were there with you, travelling to Italia!
i am now trying to do it at home, hopefully!
Lili
  • #80
  • Von: FLAVIO MESSAGGIERO
BRAVVO NAPOLI, EXCELENTE TU ARTICULO



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