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Gnocchis de Calabaza

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Después de casi 20 años de intentos finalmente logré hacer estos deliciosos gnocchis - mi propio y personal Santo Grial culinario.

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He estado tratando de hacer gnocchis de calabaza desde que tengo 15 añois, y hasta la semana pasada simpre habían sido un desastre  absoluto.  Los gnocchis (dumplings italianos) simplemente se disolvían en el agua hirviendo y cualesquier pedazos que pudiera sacar parecían esponjas anaranjadas que iban directo al lavatrastes.  Había intentado todo - hornear primero la calabaza para secarla, añadir una carretada de harina o mezclarla con papas.  Nada, hasta que probé con una receta lombarda de un libro de comida lenta (Slow Food) en italilano. 'El secreto', decía, 'está en la calabaza.'  Y vaya si lo está.  Utilizando potimarron (Calabaza Hokkaido squash o Calabaza Kuri) sólo requerí muy poca harina para lograr los gnocchis más deliciosos que he probado.  Y cuando al día siguiente lo volví a intentar con una calabaza muy seca de otro tipo, regresé a mis acostumbrados desasatres y tuve que utilizar más harina que calabaza para que los gnocchis resistieran la cocción.

 

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Rebana la calabaza en 4 partes y retira las semillas pero deja la cáscara.  Hornea en un refractario cubierto en un horno caliente hasta que se suavice, 30-40 minutos.

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Descarta el jugo que hubiera salido y pela la calabaza o rasca la carne con una cuchara.  Machácala hastra obtener una pulpa suave y homogénea.  Llena tu olla más grande con agua, agrégale sal, ponla a hervir y tenla lista para los gnocchis.

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Machaca un par de amaretti (macarrons o biscochos italianos de piedras de chabacano) en un mortero. No te molestes en quitarles el azúcar, la calabaza ya es muy dulce y no la notarás.  Casar dulce con amargo es una manera de comer calabazas de todo tipo establecida en el norte de Italia desde hace mucho tiempo.

 

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Combina el puré de calabaza con los amaretti machacados.

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Añade apenas el harina necesaria para que se mantenga unida.

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Si no estás seguro, trata de formar una bolita en tu mano como explico más adelante y cuécela en la olla.  Si el gnoccho conserva su forma y sale si haber absorvido la mitad del agua de la olla, quiere decir que tiene suficiente harina.

 

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Enharina una tabla y toma un poco de masa en la mano.  Puedes formar bolitas del tamaño de una nuez, o puedes formar un puro largo que puedes después cortar en pequeños gnocchis.  Termínalos presionando con un tenedor en un lado de cada gnoccho. (para que la mantequilla se adhiera mejor).

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Trata de utilizar la manor canitidad posible de harina en esta etapa.  Si dejas grandes plastas de harina en los gnocchis como yo hice aquí, el harina no dessaparecerá al hervirlos.  La verás.

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Sumerge los gnocchis en el agua hiriendo.  Por favor hazlo con cuidado ya que los gnocchis crudos pueden perder su forma si los dejas caer en la olla desde el techo.  Idealmente debes utilizar una cuchara perforada para depositarlos en el agua, pero asegúrate de meterlos todos al mismo tiempo, o cuécelos por tandas, de otra manera el cocido no será parejo en cada tanda.  Cuécelos sólo un minuto o dos.  Si tienes duda, prueba un gnoccho.

 

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Unos buenos gnocchis no necesitan salsa.  El sabor más delicado que puedes utilizar es salvia. Por alguna razón que únicamente los químicos conocen, el delicado perfume de la salvia no puede ser extraído con agua, pero es fácilmente soluble en grasa.

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En una olla pequeña, derrite tanta mantequilla como tu dieta te permita y agrega las hojas de salvia.  No las frías, sólo deja que la mantequilla se derrita pocoa poco con las hojas de salvia bañándose en el líquido.  Puedes retirar las hojas puesto que la mayor parte de su sabor ya está en la mantequilla, pero los intivados prefieren ver de donde viene el sabor y las tiritas verdes van muy bien con el color anaranjado de la pasta.

 

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Transfiere Transfer los gnocchis a la mantequilla con salvia y déjalos al fuego más lento hasta que estés listo para servir.

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Sírvelos con queso parmesano recién rallado y de ser necesario, unos cuantos amaretti machacados.

Estos son los mejores gnocchis que he probado o hecho - punto.  Claro que los puedes hacer con otro tipo de calabaza que la que yo usé, pero si tu masa queda muy húmeda tendrá que utilizar tanta harina que tus gnocchis merecerán ser llamados atraganta-curas.  Aún así se podrán comer, pero el equilibrio de sabores estará equivocado y la textura muy harinosa. ¡Buena suerte!


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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



18 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by chucha
FX-- these look phenomenal! I would like to make them for my family during the Christmas holidays.  Could you answer a couple of questions for me? What size pumpkin did you use (do you know how much it weighed)? Also, what quantity of gnocchi does one pumpkin make? I've never experimented with this before, so I don't know how to estimate quantities here. thanks so much! your site has become one of my favorites!
  • #2
  • Comment by Macha
Interesting. My lady sometimes makes pumpkin gnocchi and she never had any problems with -she isn't a master-chef by any means. We never thought of them as being particularly difficult. How strange! I guess our local supermarkt's default pumpkins are the right ones. Lucky us!
  • #3
  • Answered by fx
Thanks Macha, let me know if the pumpkin-amaretti gnocchi work for you!
  • #4
  • Comment by M.
What is the secret in the potimarron? Why are other pumpkins missing it? Are their other pumkins sharing it?BTW I like your blog: beautiful pictures [cooking & making pictures at the same time?], instructive recipes & results which seems to be delicious.
  • #5
  • Answered by fx
Thanks! Yes indeed the potimarron is a pumpkin turned into a prince. Buy as many as you can carry when they are in season. Hope to see you around my blog!
  • #6
  • Comment by Monika Church
I made your Pumpkin Gnocchi using 2 Kuri pumpkins, they were increadible. I was concerned because the Kuri pumpkins were rather dry after roasting them, I then scraped the flesh and put it through a food mill. I had to add a little more flour than I thought to get them to not fall appart in the water, but they were a "Fall Dream Dinner" Thank you!!!Monika
  • #7
  • Answered by fx
Monika, I am very pleased to hear you had a good success with my pumpkin gnocchi recipe, sometimes it doesn't work with some types of pumpkins. Write down the name of the pumpkin you used and it will work everytime!
  • #8
  • Comment by Stefan
hi fx,

it's a disaster - today I cooked your gnocchi recipe - wel what should I say the dough was still to runny after I don't how much flour - I some how managed to form paste. However their was no pumpkin taste left and it was hard as stones... I consider my self as a quite knowledgeable and experienced hobby cook, but I have no clue what I did wrong. I used the right sort of pumpkin I followed the instructions (what I normally hardly do... well I don't know.  

Cheers Stefan

ps don't worry still like your side!
  • FX's answer→ Stefan, I am very sorry to hear this but not entirely surprised. Depending on the starch and water content of your pumpkin, this is something that can happen. If it's any consolation, you should know that it happens to me from time to time.

  • #10
  • Comment by Stefab
Hey FX! Thanks for your quick answer! And no need to be sorry. However I thought a while and I think I have an idea. I used a pumpkin from a local farmer. A couple of weeks ago I prepared a curry with one of these and even I cooked it in the sauce the pumpkin pieces where rather dry. So I got reminded on your gnocchi and I bought an other one last week, but what happened with the pumpkins int that short time. Well the weather turned from a nice still warm Indian summer into a golden autumn with freezing cold nights. That doesn't hurt the pumpkin but it changes it's starch structure as it does for Brussels sprouts. The sweeter yet shorter starch chains can't bind the water as god as the long, but attract it even more and this leads to the disastrous result. I could experiment that out, by buying an other one from a warmer place of the world cutting it in half freezing one half and comparing the results... However I am into cooking not in food chemistry.

Cheers S
  • FX's answer→ Stefan, I have wasted God knows how many fine pumpkins trying to make gnocchis, only to end up with a pot full of flour and pumpkin soup. I would really love to get to the bottom of this and be certain of getting good results every time. Type of pumpkin? Acid test to see if the flesh is OK?

  • #12
  • Comment by martha medina
Me gustó mucha la forma en la que nos explicas, además se ven riquísimo, los haré muchas gracias. Martha
  • #13
  • Comment by valerio
wow it looks scrumptious! I trying ur recipe today itself :-)
There are so many ways of making these gnocchi in Italy. For instance, in various parts of Italy (northen Italy) they add some nutmeg and parmisan cheese to the dough to make it tastier. Also, most of recipes contains an egg to confer some tougher texture after boiling.
Also the dough being runny is not generally considered a problem as the gnocchi are boiled one by one soaking into the boiling water a teaspoon of these "cream" and wait until become solid. Well they don't look well rounded as yours but still very good. Another way some cooks use is putting the creamy dough into a sac-a-poche make gnocchi by cutting small pieces with the help of scissors.
  • #14
  • Comment by inga
...simply delicious...
Hello Chey!Thank you for your interest in the Gnocchi reipce. Our handmade Gnocchi reipce is to have 2 cups mashed potatoes to mix in with 1½ to 2 cups of regular flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 egg slightly beaten (optional). They are so much fun to make, even our littlest daughter rolls them, and runs the tiny bites size gnocchi inside a box style cheese grater, to get the perfect ridges!Buon appetite! EnjoyLet me know how they turn out, now I’m hungry for them too!Linda
  • FX's answer→ Thanks for the visit

I am loving your new blog!!  I was inesetetrd in your gnocchi recipe.  Can you tell me how much flour and what type of flour it calls for (bread flour or all purpose)?  I used to make these with my Aunt Mary.  We also made home made spaghetti by rolling the dough on a metal clothes hanger.  She use to cut the bottom part of the hanger off and we would roll the dough on it and slide it off.  You brought back some very nice memories for me!  Thank you!
  • FX's answer→ Normal cake flour and the pumpkin will tell you how much you need!


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