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Fríe Berenjenas como una Mama Siciliana

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Freir berenjenas es una de las cosas más engañosas en la cocina italiana.  Observa como lo hace Eleonora Consoli, una autoridad en la cocina siciliana, en su propia cocina en el Monte Etna, en Sicilia y ... ¡Nunca volverás a acabar con esas esponjas aceitosas!

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Freir berenjenas es una de las cosas más engañosas de la cocina italiana.  Las malditas cosas esas simplemente se tragan cuanto aceite les avientes y terminan por inmobilizar a tus invitados por semanas, como un pitón que se comió un perro y no se puede mover por varios días.  Pero una berenjena bien frita es una maravilla carnosa y delicada en una sabrosa cápsula dorada.  He intentado freir berenjenas de muchas formas - en una sartén antiadherente con poquito aceite, en el horno, presionándolas para extraer el aceite que habían chupado.  Todo mundo tiene su idea de como hacerlo, pero cuando se trata de saber como freir una berenjena como una mama siciliana, la cosa termina con Eleonora Consoli.  Signora Consoli, de Viagrande en el Monte Etna, en Sicilia, escribe libros de cocina para sus lectores sicilianos y tiene su propio programa de cocina en la televisión de Sicilia.  Me las ingenié para asistir a una clase privada de cocina en su casa cerca del Monte Etna y le pedí que me enseñara como freir una berenjena.

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Como verás, freir una berenjena correctamente y lograr berenjenas ligeras, crujientes ycompletamente cocinadas es muy simple.  Aún así, hay mil y una maneras de equivocarse.  Sólo observa como se hace:

 

Pelando y Rebanando la Berenjena
Utiliza berenjenas de piel negra que son las de mejor sabor.  Se les deja la piel ya que se vuelve muy sabrosa al freirla, lo que no sucede con las berenjenas blancas y violetas.

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Lava las berenjenas, luego córtales el tallo así como cualquier parte lastimada.

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Rebana la berenjena a lo largo.  Esto es my importante ya que unas rebanadas transversales harían que las fibras de la berenjena absorviesen el aceite.  Comienza por cortar una rebanada de piel y descártala...

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... luego procede con más rebanadas a lo largo hasta llegar al otro lado.

 

Salando, Lavando y Escurriendo las Berenjenas
Muchas veces he tratado de salar aubergines o berenjenas antes de freirlas, para extraer las aguas amargas como dicen los libros de cocina italianos.  Y en cada ocasión he tenido que tirarlas porque sabían a bacalao salado.  Pero al Señora Consoli explica que éste es un paso esencial, y creo que es sobre todo porque unas berenjenas más secas absorverán menos aceite por ósmosis.  Así es como se hace:

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Embarra cada rebanada con sal por ambos lados.  No temas usar demasiada sal.

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Deja las rebanadas en un colador de 30 a 60 minutos.  Verás grandes gotas de agua formarse en las aubergines - es jugo de berenjena que la sal ha sacado por ósmosis.

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El problema es que este proceso sala mucho las berenjenas.  Ya que el agua sale del interior de la rebanada hacia fuera, pensarías que no entraría la sal, pero si entra.  Ahora tienes que lavar cada rebanada en el chorro del agua y restregarla, exprimirla, escurrirla y volverla a lavar.  Si no haces esto, no te podrás comer tus aubergines.

 

Friendo la Berenjena
Ahora a freir.  Pensarías que tratándose de cocina italiana hecha en una casa italiana utilizarían aceite de oliva ¿Verdad?  El aceite de oliva no soporta las altas temperaturas tan bien como otros aceites menos románticos.  Los chefs profesionales utilizan mantequilla clarificada o, como Signora Consoli, aceite de semillas de uva para freir a temperaturas altas.  Si piensas que eso no es saludable, no estoy seguro que haces leyendo un artículo acerca de comida frita, pero debes saber que los beneficios de aceite de oliva extra virgen desaparecen rápidamente en cuanto el aceite se calienta hasta su grado de ahumado.  Algunos aceites de semilla de uva pueden aguantar casi 400F°/200°C antes de comenzar a ahumar, y ciertamente son la opción correcta para esto.

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Calienta al menos 1litro/1quart de aceite de semillas de uva en una olla honda para freir.  Caliéntalo a una temperatura de unos 170°C/330°F.  Puedes dejar caer unos pedacitos de berenjena o de pan en el aceite - cuando comience a burbujear con fiereza, tu baño está llisto.

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Con unas pinzas, sumerge las rebanadas de berenjena una por una en el aceite.  NO las dejes caer o terminarás la comida en urgencias.  Añade únicamente la cantidad de rebanadas que quepan en la superficie de la olla - freirás las demás después.

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No dejes que el aceite se caliente tanto que comience a ahumar, pero tampoco dejes que se enfríe demasiado.

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Con unas pinzas de cocina, checa constantemente la cara inferior de las berenjenas,  hasta que estén bien doradas.  Luego dáles vuelta para que se dore la otra cara.

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Retira las rebanadas de berenjena ya fritas y colócalas en abundantes toallas de papel para eliminar tanto aceite como sea posible.  No dudes en presionarlas con cuidado con cuatro capas de papel para extraer más aceite.  Cúbrelas para mantenerlas calientes en lo que fries las demás rebanadas.

En resumen, para freir berenjenas como una mama siciliana:

  • Utiliza berenjenas de piel negra- las de mejor sabor
  • No quites la piel
  • Córtalas a lo largo
  • Ponles bastante sal para extraer la humedad
  • Lava y escurre cada rebanada como si fuese una toalla
  • Para freir, utiliza aceite que soporte altas temperaturas,  NO aceite de oliva
  • Usa muchas toallas de papel para remover el exceso de aceite de las rebanadas de berenjena

Eleonora Consoli [haylayawNAWnawrah KONsawlee]
www.cucinadelsole.it
info@cucinadelsole.it
Via Contemare 9
95029 - Viagrande Catania
Italia
Tel/Fax +39-095-7890116 or +39-095-7899091


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Copyright FXcuisine 2017 - all rights reserved.
If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



49 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by zk
On a hot summer day, if you live in a relatively dry area, you can try and put the eggplants in the sun for two hours.After frying them you will obtain, the most wonderful crispy eggplants. My aunt always make them like this. I live near the sea, the weather is relatively humid and I never managed to fry them them correctly. I will soon try Eleonora's recipe.In Lebanon, we serve fried eggplant, minced meat, tomato sauce covered by a layer of yogurt with garlic decorated with pine nuts, a real treat.Thank you fx for this wonderful blog
  • #2
  • Comment by Saxit
Cutting them lengthwise is ingenious - I will try it out.Though I don't see the point in salting them to dry them out then drenching them in water :) But I guess I'll try that too.
  • #3
  • Comment by Ruth
Great article, now I just have to figure out how to get my family to eat eggplant without me having to "disguise" them in sauces or stews!  In the meantime, I'll bookmark this for when I'm home alone.Thanks for the tips.
  • #4
  • Comment by Macha
Lovely. I tried it today and it worked really well!
  • #5
  • Comment by Frances
We recently visited my cousin in Randazzo, Sicily.  She prepared wonderful foods for us but because we didn't speak the same language, I don't know what all of the foods were.  In the first course, there was an item that was cut into a wedge shape resembling a piece of pie but of course it wasn't.  Do you know what it could have possibly been and how I would prepare it?  I am going to attempt your fried eggplant as that was one of the selections in our first course.  Thank you very much for your help.
  • #6
  • Comment by Cynthia
The salting makes the eggplant less bitter. I would never have thought to rinse the salt off with water, either, but I will try it.  I usually just wipe the slices down after salting and the juices seem to bear away most (but by no means all) of the salt.What is your feeling on dredging in flour and/or dipping in egg? What's the final use for the fried eggplant prepared Mrs. Consoli's way here? In the past I have used flour/egg to give a little bit of crustiness and to keep the eggplant slices more distinct when I make a baked 'parmesan'. When I was growing up in the US, fried eggplant always came with a heavy bread-crumb coating that soaked up a lot of oil.. ugh!Frances, did your 'pie' have greens and/or cheese? I think there is a stuffed pie (like a round calzone) called 'scacciata', with various fillings. I think this is also the name of a kind of cheese. Where we live, 'scacciata' is a kind of dense focaccia-like bread, or thick pizza, but it is not filled. The regional names can be confusing and can change even from town to town. Literally, 'scacciare' (ska-CHAR-ay) means to expel or drive away..  but I think the origin is most likely in "schiacciare" (SKEE-a-CHAR-ay) to squish/beat down, which is what you do to the focaccia with all its dimples).  In Tuscany the (non-stuffed) version is most definitely usually called 'schiacciata' or even 'ciaccina' (cha-CHEE-na)
  • #7
  • Comment by Marlene Butkiewicz
Thank you for the detailed clear instructions!
  • #8
  • Comment by jensenly
Great post.  Simple, yet those tiny details (slicing vertically, grapeseed oil, etc.) make all the difference.  I am now not afraid of the dreaded, soggy, oily fried eggplant!  Thanks, Dr. Aubergine!
  • #9
  • Answered by fx
Jensenly, indeed Madame Aubergine is one particular lady, but if you do it her way, she'll reward you with that wet, caramelized flesh.
  • #10
  • Comment by Rick Jones
awesome, I can't wait to cook like a Sicilian mama!
  • #11
  • Answered by fx
Rick, Sicilian cookery is very rewarding if you can get proper vegetables, and it's quite economical too!
  • #12
  • Comment by Salvatrice Eiras
The pictorial was wonderful and vivid. Thank you for the play by play. I have forwarded this to some of my friends who would benefit from this.
  • #13
  • Answered by fx
Mrs Eiras thank you for your visit and glad you liked my article about eggplant frying!
  • #14
  • Comment by Joseph Ramos
Dear Mrs. Consoli,


Unfortunately, I did not have the Grapeseed oil. I used, instead, Canola oil which seemed to fry the eggplant as close as your recipie. How many grades of "Grapeseed oil are there?, and which grade do I purchase?, since the only one I was able to find was "Roland" brand Grapeseed Oil  which is a product of France ($10.00 for 1 pint. 0.9 FL OZ.)that I will be using soon.

I will plan to stop and say "Buongiorno" on my next stop to your beautiful country of Sicilia.

Respectfully,

Mr. J. Ramos
  • FX's answer→ Hello Joseph, in fact I think you can use really cheap grapeseed oil, the importance is really the highest temperature your oil can take before splitting into all sorts of unsavory organic compounds. Perhaps you can try and use a high-temperature thermometer to see what temperature you can get your type of grapeseed oil without breaking?

  • #16
  • Comment by neighborhood mom
I am by not means a gourmet chef, but I do dredge my eggplant in egg and  breadcrumbs (parmesan) and serve it w/ whole wheat spagetti and marinara sauce. I also fry it in vegetable oil until lightly browned on the edges. I usually squueze it with paper towels as soon as it comes out of the oil, which helps alot. The key is making sure the oil is consistantly hot.
My daughter found your website and emailed it to me.  I am THRILLED that she did. My late mother's family originated in Sicily ~ Agrigento, actually.  I have always longed to visit and perhaps see if I still have relatives there.
Having access to your website almost brings me there.  So my heart is now happy.  Thank you for giving me a place that is so dear to my heart.

Sincerely,
Claire McKenna
P.S.: My mother's maiden name was D'Amico
  • FX's answer→ Thanks a lot Claire and have fun exploring your Sicilian roots!

  • #19
  • Comment by debbie vitale
do you know if there is an american outlet where ms. Consoli's cookbooks can be purchased??
  • FX's answer→ You can order them from Italy, ibs.it

  • #21
  • Comment by Danny
Hi FX, this is s great website/blog. I am a Siculo-Australian - Australian born with Sicilian parents. This is exactly how my mum fries eggplant. Such a great article on a simple topic. And those meatballs in lemon leaves – I grew up on them (but BBQed not baked). I think many people don’t realise how the simplest things in Italian cooking make all the difference.

I love cooking and eating. And you have inspired to start my own blog. My parents have many old Sicilian recipes (they are 80 & 71 years old) which I would love to share with the world. Further, I have friends with mums with great recipes - the kind of dishes you will never get at any restaurants. For example, I have a friend with an East Timorese mum and Goan dad – his mum cooks some unbelievable curries and much more. I have another friend who is Lebanese – his mum cooks spectacular dishes beyond shish kebabs.

So I am going to do it – I will start a website/blog. Do you mind if I email you asking for advice/tips? I don’t want to bore your readers with my questions here.

Anyway – thanks for the great recipes, spectacular pictures but most of all for the inspiration. I will email you soon – if that’s OK?    
  • #22
  • Comment by Linda
thank you for these great tips.  I will try once again in my quest to successfully fry eggplant like my mother-in-law in southern italy.  I've watched and watched her but could never duplicate it.  Your line about the python was hilarious and oh-so-familiar!  that happened to me the last time I tried it.  Thanks again!
  • #23
  • Comment by nameEvelyn C. Palumbo
I will try your receipe, it sounds good.   thank you..
  • #24
  • Comment by tonicervezas
Fantástico y utilísimo consejo y excelente redacción y explicación. Sólo me queda dar las gracias, quitarme el sombrero y acercarme a la huerta mañana sábado por la mañana a por un par de hermosas berenjenas y deleitarme con la receta. Lo único que no voy a poder utilizar es aceite de uva. ¿Dónde podría conseguirlo en Madrid?

Muchas gracias de nuevo y un afectuoso saludo!
  • #25
  • Comment by Rosanna bonnet
This is a like a  Dream come true!!!!!!
For the first time in my life I can enjoy a fried
aubergine, crispy!!!!
Grazie!!!!
  • #26
  • Comment by john averna
I LOVE EGGPLANT DISHES AND AM THRILLED  TO LEARN A NEW WAY TO   PREPARE  MY FAVORITE VEGETABLE.   THE AVERNAS COME FROM   CALTENNESETTA AND HAVE  DEEP ROOTS  IN  
\

la bella sicilia.      Tante grazzi.      John Averna
  • #27
  • Comment by Jillian Alesci
My late husband was Sicilian and born there.  My mother in law cooked eggplants.  i will try your recipe.  If you are familiar with this surname send me an email
  • #28
  • Comment by Lorna Kellogg
A great article for someone who has never fried an eggplant.  I had heard about salting or soaking, but didn't know exactly what to do.  Also, I never suspected that which way the eggplant was sliced would make any difference.  I would definitely return to you when looking for more info.
  • #29
  • Comment by Sandi
Love eggplant, but always am looking for a better way.  I found it here.  It turned out wonderfully!  Thank you.
  • #30
  • Comment by AH
I just tried this tonight, and have mixed feelings about the results.  On the one hand, the eggplant did come out fairly crispy while maintaining the desired consistancy of the inner flesh. (I would cut thicker slices next time.)  However, even after rinsing the salted eggplant I found the end result to be extremely salty! (And I like well seasoned/salted food.)  

I had previously tried several of the variations mentioned in the article in an effort to get a good result on a fried eggplant dish.  It's very frustrating because it's such a classic dish and thus gives the perception of simplicity of preparation, but I've found it to be quite tricky every time I've tried.  Either too soggy, too oily, not crispy enough, etc.  This was insightful for the suggestion of cutting the eggplant lengthwise as well as using the salting technique, but I definitely need some futher refinement on the technique...
  • #31
  • Comment by Christopher Beach
where have you been all of my life??

A PERFECT article; photos, resume  of the chef, lots of tidbits.

Many thanks
  • FX's answer→ Thanks Christopher, glad you liked it!

  • #33
  • Comment by Lois
I love the fine details you provide in your recipes plus the terrific pictures to help us visualize the products and procedures.  Thank you so much.
  • FX's answer→ Thank you Lois, I do love close up shots in recipes too!

  • #35
  • Comment by Rebecca Harman
I wanted to try my hand at making the Greek dish Moussaka, but I've never been brave enough to try frying eggplant (though I've always loved eating it when done correctly). My Moussaka recipe said nothing about salting/draining the eggplant, but in the back of my mind I knew my dad had done "something" before frying eggplant. I searched on line & finally found this site. Now I'm not nearly as nervous about attempting the recipe. Thanks!
  • FX's answer→ Good luck Rebecca!

  • #37
  • Comment by Veriglius Publius Maro
Is there a way to incorporate bread /corn flake crumbs into this recipe? I'd imagine dipping them in egg and then crumbs after patting out the salt soak. And yes, olive oil is no good for frying and grape seed is the best as it has a high smoking point. Charred food of any kind is unhealthy.   
  • FX's answer→ Well well, if you want to fry at 190C and don't like burnt carcinogenic food, then breadcrumbs are out ... but olive oil is back in!

  • #39
  • Comment by Kamran
If you want the eggplant to soak even less oil, prepare it as mentioned, but before frying it, lightly coat each side with egg white or yogurt. It gives it a nice seal so oil won't get soaked in
  • FX's answer→ Does this not burn the egg white?

  • #41
  • Comment by Joe
Salting and washing is the only way I can eat eggplant.  For some reason, unless it is salted and washed, to take away some of the acids, the eggplant just doesn't agree with me.  My sensitive gums become inflamed and I get heart burn (agido). Once salted and washed, I can enjoy them any way they're made.  A Sicilian remedy for warts is to use the salt/eggplant sweat that comes out soaked into a piece of bread and bandaged to the wart.  This stuff is caustic so I'm glad to get it out of the eggplant before eating. The eggplant becomes much more mild.
  • FX's answer→ I have big trouble getting rid of the salt if I do that, it may depend on the type of egglant, some are more bitter than others.

  • #43
  • Comment by Javier
I have tried to find the best fried aubergine recipe longtime ago and finally I have got it thanks to You. Best reference cuisine website.
  • FX's answer→ Thanks Javier!

  • #45
  • Comment by Flora
Thank you for posting this.  Now I know how my Sicilian grandma perfected fried eggplant.  I knew it was cut length-wise and salted, but the entire technique escaped me until this.  I just love Eleanora.  She bears a strong resemblance to my late Sicilian mother, who was also a phenomenal cook.
  • FX's answer→ Thanks for the visit! Now there is another article with improved methods for frying eggplants in the oven.

  • #47
  • Comment by janice sanz
Yes, I like this article very much. The instructions combined with the photos are superb.
I'm trying this tonight.  Cheers!
  • #48
  • Comment by mika
thanks! i've been looking for a recipe for the perfect fried aubergine for a long time and this one nailed it. especially cutting the eggplants lengthwise seemed to be the right thing to do. they came out so yummy.
  • FX's answer→ Good to hear it worked for you!


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