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Gnocchis que Extrangulan Curas en Salsa Napolitana de Carne (página 2 de 2)

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Estos gnocchis servidos en ragú, la salsa napolitana de culto, serían famosos en todo el mundo si no tomara 7 horas cocinarlos.
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Los strangolapreti

Strangolapreti (Gnocchis napolitanos)
1kg papa blanca (de alto contenido de almidón)
2 cups harina de trigo común
sal
nuez moscada

Cuece las papas con la cáscara, o cuécelas al vapor sin cáscara, hasta que estén blandas pero no pastosas.  Házlas puré con el mejor pasador de papas que tengas.  Los pedazos grandes y los puntitos negros no son bienvenidos y se notarán.  Si no me crees, checa mis fotos con cuidado y verás a lo que me refiero.

 

 

Agrega el harina hasta que obtengas una pasta uniforme, no muy blanda.  Puedes agregar un huevo pero realmente no es necesario.  Mientras más harina lleven, más duros y más pesados.  En el Nápoles del siglo 18 los hacían exclusivamente con harina - perfectos si los necesitas para ahogar un sacerdote, pero no son nada ligeros.  Los gnocchis a base de papa son mucho muy superiores y son los que se usan por toda Italia el día de hoy.

 

Mi masa de gnochhi no está muy uniforme y tiene muchos grumos.  Utiliza un pasador o rallador más fino que el que yo usé.

 

Corta un poco de la masa y haz un rollito en la superficie de trabajo ligeramente enharinada.  El rollo debe tener el grueso de la base de tu dedo medio.

 

Corta pedazos del rollo como del tamaño de la punta de tu pulgar.

 

Si el tiempo de cocción hace el ragù, es la forma lo que hace el gnoccho. Los gnocchis hechos aprisa no tienen forma - parecen barrilitos.  Presionándolos ligeramente en un rallador fino o en un tapetito de bambú, los harás más delgados, curvos de un lado y con marcas como pequeñas cavidades del otro lado.  El resultado es un gnoccho más ligero al que se le adhiere mucha mayor cantidad de ragù.  También se ven más apetitosos.

 

Éstos para nada son los mejores gnocchis, pero hice otra tanda al día siguiente con mucho mejores resultados.  Ambos supieron igual, ¡Buena suerte!

 

Pon agua salada a hervir fuerte y no le pongas aceite, sin importar lo que te haya dicho tu papá.  Prepara los gnocchis en un plato o en una toalla doblada.

 

VIerte todos tus gnocchis en el agua al mismo tiempo.  Sube el fuego al máximo para compensarla pérdida de temperatura por los gnocchis fríos y no tapes la olla.  En serio, no la tapes.  Se dice que tapar una olla donde se cuece pasta constituye causal de divorcio en Nápoles.

 

Tus gnocchis estarán listos cuando suban a la superficie.  Prueba uno para asegurarte.  Con una cuchara perforada sácalos y ponlos en un colador.  Pero por favor no vacíes los gnocchis y el agua al colador.  Romperías y sobrecocerías los gnocchis y es de muy mal gusto en la cocina.

 

Calienta los platos donde vas a servir con un cucharón del agua donde los cociste, sacude los gnocchis en el colador para eliminar el exceso de agua y cuidadosamente ponlos en los platos.

Finalmente, los espléndidos strangolapreti están listos para servir en el exquisito y aterciopelado ragù rojo oscuro.

 

En verdad éste es un platillo fantástico, que bien vale la pena el esfuerzo.  Esta receta es para 4 porciones grandes o para 8 como primer plato.  Definitivamente puedes hacer el ragù el día anterior, mantenerlo refrigerado y quitarle las pequeñas manchitas de grasa que subirán el día siguiente.

Mi receta viene del monumental libro 'La Cucina Napoletana' de Jeanne Caròla Francesconi, una obra monumental de 750 páginas sobre todos los platillos napolitanos y su historia.  Tiene una discusión larga y apasionada del ragù, sus orígenes, su importancia cultural en Nápoles y las variaciones aceptadas.  Si lees italiano, no te puedes perder este libro.  Aunque no tiene fotografías sigue siendo uno de mis 10 libros de cocina favoritos, y tengo muchos.

Ah - la carne de cerdo.  Bueno, la puedes servire como segundo plato o en otra comida.  Sólo sirve para impartir el sabor de cerdo a la salsa y nunca se come con la salsa.

 ¡Buena suerte y cuéntame como te va con el platillo!  


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«Although I prefer strangling priests with my bare hands, these gnochi look pretty tempting.» Stumble upon 28/08/2007

Copyright FXcuisine 2019 - all rights reserved.
If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



39 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Christopher DePaoli
Hello- Your recipe looks very good. Is the cut of meat you're
describing as a "pig roast" typically called a "pork loin" in the U.S.
or Canada (i.e., by what other name might a "pig roast" be called?)
Please advise, thank you- Chris.
  • #2
  • Answered by fx
Christopher, nowadays many people do not use the big chunk of pig when making this sauce. Basically you have to take a large piece of pig and wrap it with bacon and herbs and tie it up. I didn't do this here and hope to redo this recipe to show how it's done.
  • #3
  • Comment by Christopher dePoali
Hello again: Regarding the "large piece of pig " as you described it,
would you have a preferred part of the animal to use & preferred
mixture of herbs to season it with? Merci pour votre attention / Vielen Dank für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit-  Chris
  • #4
  • Answered by fx
Christopher, thanks for your message.
The meat to be used according to Bugialli is beef rump roast which you need to tie up like a salami. But the authentic recipe calls for either a "prime cut of veal or pork" ('Primo taglio di vaccina o di maiale') which you need to lard with tiny pieces of prosciutto and then wrap and tie up with parsley sprigs and slices of pancetta. You also add 3 pork ribs no matter what meat you used for the roast. I hope this helps!
  • #5
  • Comment by Giovanni
Bravissimo!  Your blog is brilliant.  Well constructed, well designed and beautifully articulated.  The photographs are excellent.  You make each of your gastronomic 'cases' compelling!A good ragu is indeed to die for. An addition to the sauce which always seems to enhance the 'body' and mouthfeel is a small parcel of pigskin sprinkled amply with salt, parsely, garlic and chilli; rolled up and tied with string and allowed to cook in second half of the construction.  It imparts more divinity to a regal sauce. Thank you for your efforts and for sharing.Tanti Auguri
  • #6
  • Answered by fx
Ciao Giovanni, thank you so much for your comments. I definitely have to redo this recipe with better ingredients and need to add your pigskin parcel.
Grazie per la tua visita!
  • #7
  • Comment by Lindsey
Hello! My friend told me about your food blog, and although I haven't gotten a chance to try any of the recipes, they are beautiful! And the pictures are mouth-watering as well. I was wondering, would it be possible to transfer the sauce to a crock pot for the 7-hour simmering stage? Thank you!
  • #8
  • Answered by fx
Thank you Lindsey, you can definitely transfer it to a crockpot, have a look at my last article 'Pasta for the Sopranos' where I do the ragù just like this. A delicious dish indeed!
  • #9
  • Comment by sopitikoj
Hello Very good site. Thanks for author!G'night
  • #10
  • Comment by likopinko
Hello  So interesting site, thanks!  G'night                  
  • #11
  • Comment by yotixon
Hi  One of the best locations I've come across lately!!! Definately a permanent bookmark! Would you please also visit my site?
  • #12
  • Comment by Kelly
I absolutely love your site. I just happened upon it tonight and have bookmarked it. I will most definitely try some of your recipes. They are unique, explained well and are funny, too! This is the best "find" I've come across in months! Thank you!
  • #13
  • Comment by lokimikoj
Hi all!  Wow!!! Your site is beautiful!! I love the artwork.
  • #14
  • Comment by joe
Looks fantastic; I will try the recipe soon.Just a minor point of English: a "priest strangler" would be a person who grabs a priest by the neck and squeezes until the priest dies. A gnoccho which gets stuck in a priest's esophagus, causing him to asphyxiate would be called a "priest choker".
  • #15
  • Comment by bill
I made the gnocchi today - they were delicious with pesto for lunch. I will make the ragu this Saturday for guests Sunday night. I'll let you know how it goes. There is a local firm (Fatted Calf, here in San Francisco) and a national firm (Niman Ranch) that make guanciale. I will serve your fire-roasted peppers as a first course.
  • #16
  • Comment by bill
Oh, one question - there is no cheese in the photo, or in the description. Is this dish not traditionally served with grated cheese?
  • #17
  • Comment by Cynthia
Another on my list to try.. I often make a bolognese ragu that "only" takes 4 hours. ;-)You talk about 'pureeing' the potatoes with a 'grinder' (maybe you mean a food mill). I've never made potato gnocchi but here I would try using a potato ricer (a two-handled gadget with a plunger that pushes the potato through small holes, with the resulting product resembling cooked rice). No lumps! I've never had good luck with the food mill and potatoes.Joe, in Italian there are related transitive verbs with the same root. So, to 'strozzare' someone is indeed to strangle them. To 'strozzarsi' means to strangle (yourself) on something, i.e., choke.  That's why the literal translation may sound odd to Anglo ears. Of course, if you're the one serving the priest, you're indirectly guilty of the strangling! I hadn't heard of any particular priest being the victim.. I had gathered that priests were often viewed as 'golosi' (greedy, gluttons.. perhaps due to their restrictions from other vices) hence they could easily choke while (quickly) eating such thick, chewy morsels. In other parts of Italy the same name, strozza/strangolapreti, is used for a number of flour-based pasta forms as well (no potato), or even for large 'gnudi', which are ricotta/spinach dumplings. There's no one canonical (wink) 'strozzapreti' recipe.
  • #18
  • Comment by Leila Denmark
I made it yesterday and cooked it as recommended the full seven hours. The result was stunning. The last five hours, while the ragu simmered, was no trouble at all - just the occational stir.
  • #19
  • Comment by leila karlslund
Is there a way to print this recipe without the very large (and beautiful) pictures? My son cooked this ragu yesterday and tried in vain to print just the text. Instead it took 18 pages, because the size of the illustrations couldn't be reduced or avoided.
  • #20
  • Answered by fx
Leila I will make some changes to enable picture-free printing. That will be best for everyone's environmental karma I suppose!
  • #21
  • Answered by fx
Leila, I now have made a print version accessible from a link right below the title of every article. No pictures, no ads - just the text.
  • #22
  • Comment by Fred
Great recipe! Worth the time. I tempered the excess gnocchis in an ice bath. They can be kept in fridge for 2 days and re-heated as needed.
  • #23
  • Answered by fx
Fred, I'm so glad you tried my recipe! You can definitely reheat the gnocchis with a little butter in a saucepan, this will add a little crispiness. If you parboil them again they might become soggy.
  • #24
  • Comment by Karine
Francois-Xavier,
Hier, j’ai fait la sauce ragù (qui en passant était succulente) ainsi que les gnocchis que j’ai prépare à la dernière minute. Je me demandais si c’était possible de préparer les gnocchis à l’avance. Si oui, combien de temps et est ce que c’est différent si je met un œuf ?
Merci et mille fois bravo pour ton site!
  • #25
  • Answered by fx
Karine, bonjour et merci pour ta visite! Tu peux faire les gnocchis avec un oeuf, des bonnes pommes de terres bien farineuses et aussi peu de farine qu'il faudra pour qu'ils tiennent. Il me semble que tu pourrais préparer la pâte la veille et faire les gnocchis le jour même, mais je ne te recommanderais pas de les précuire. Le plus long est de faire cuire les patates et de les peler, le reste est facile et rigolo, tu peux même demander à tes invités de venir t'aider à les mettre en forme, ça leur fera une soirée vraiment mémorable!
Hello,

I've been following your website for about 7-8 months now and your combination of recipes plus macro photos is amazing. You do amazing work.
I appreciate all of your napolitana sauces and recipes however doesn't the simmering for 7 hrs make these sauces too acidic from the tomatoes? Is there anything you do to counteract this? I just don't like adding sugar to my sauces...let me rephrase that...I will absolutely never add sugar to my sauces.

Thanks

Jarrett
  • #27
  • Answered by fx
Jarrett, thanks for stepping out of the digital woodwork and into the the comments section! You could, if nobody was looking, add a very tiny wee bit of sugar if your sauce is too tart, but I find it rarely necessary. Just taste it by the end and make a judgement call to correct the balance. Good luck and have fun!
  • #28
  • Comment by Grazio
Hello fx,

 I am an aspiring chef. I am 13 and i cook every meal in my home. I love this website and i thought i should finally comment. This dish is very similar to a dish we have here in the states. What we have here is called Sunday Gravy. You put pork chops, braciole, sausage and meatballs.   Put in San Marzano tomatoes and simmer all day. You should really try it
  • FX's answer→ Grazio, welcome to FXcuisine, you must be our youngest reader so far and already well versed into Italian cooking as I can see! If you had a complete recipe for the Sunday Gravy, including some details as to the part of Italy the people who cook this came from originally, I'd be very interested. Thanks and good luck for your future career as a chef!

  • #30
  • Comment by Mike Griska
There is nothing better than a slow cooked ragu. I have been making a Bolognese ragu for years. It's a labor of love but well worth it. Your presentation is excellant. I will try to make this recipe soon. I also enjoyed reading all the comments. Very thoughtful. I have a few questions, etc. on the recipe. The pork fat is not shown in the ingredient picture. I have been using salt pork for years and assume this is OK. The directions did not indicate to render the pork fat before adding the ground meat. I assume this is correct? Do you brown the garlic and remove it from the oil prior to adding the ground meat or grind it together with the meat? Browning  the garlic and removing it sounds correct. The 2C of water are not on the ingredient list or in the ingredients picture. Not an important point. The comment to add pork skin in phase two is something we do all the time. Rolling it up with spices and tying it is a brilliant suggestion. The meat stacked in the picture looks like panchetta or guanciale on top, thick sliced boiled ham or ham steak in the middle and prosciutto on the bottom. Your ingredient list calls for bacon? I do not see it. Enough of my picky comments! Great recipe, great presentation and narrative. Kudos chef. I can't wait to read more of your recipes.
  • FX's answer→ Mike, sorry for the late answer. Yes, you do need to render the fat or else add olive oil otherwise the ground meat with burn. Many people fry the garlic in oil, then remove the garlic and throw it away, since much flavor has been passed to the oil. Normally I don't include water in the ingredient list unless it is a recipe meant for desert explorers. Have fun!

Xavier,

You mentioned about La cucina napoletana in Italian. Would you have recommendations on Italian cookbooks in English? More specifically ones on Neapolitan cooking

Regards
Siddhartha
  • #33
  • Comment by Laura
Hi There
Can someone help me please.... at what point do you add the Pork Ribs? - do they go into the mixer with the bacon and ham at the start? - or do they go into the pot whole at a later stage?
  • #34
  • Comment by David
I made this sauce...cooked it for the whole 7 hours, and i nearly strangled myself eating it.  It has the most delicate flavour. Slow food is king.  Take pleasure seriously!  Thanks.
  • FX's answer→ Glad this worked for you David!

  • #36
  • Comment by matthew
what do i do with the pig roast when i am done cooking?
  • #37
  • Comment by matthew
would it be possible to make this sauce in a (much) larger quantity. I have concerns that the tomato paste would not caramelize properly if i attempted to double or quadruple the ingredients.
  • FX's answer→ Matthew, you would need either a larger pan or to proceed in several batches.

Great recipe - thanks...

I will try it after I retire later this year - can't wait !

Vic

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