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Comprando Ingredientes y Utensilios Secretos de los Arcanos en Paris

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Mientras más cocinas, más encuentras recetas que piden ingredientes que simplemente no puedes encontrar en ningún lado.  También te das cuenta que hay ciertas operaciones culinarias que serían mucho más fáciles con la herramienta adecuada.  Bueno, si estás en Paris, aquí es donde tienes que ir.

¿Dònde encuentras extracto de bergamota? ¿Pétalos de violeta cristalizados? ¿Cobertura de chocolate? ¿Qué tal un batidor de cocina especial para hacer redes de caramelo o un cuenco de cobre para triunfar con las espumas de huevo?  Si estás en Paris, aquí es donde hay que ir:

Ya te platiqué already de De Hillerin en la Rue Coquillère en Les Halles.  Bueno, todo parece pequeño después de Kappabashi-dori, pero es el primer lugar en Paris donde yo buscaría equipo y utensilios de cocina.  También tienen una impresionante selección de utensilios de cobre - si están dentro de tu presupuesto.  Mi sueño de traerme a casa un precioso daubière/braisière de cobre se esfumó cuando el Sr Kim me dijo que costaba €320. Abierto desde 1820.  Salí de ahí con un molino de carne checo que cumple con cualquier especificación militar.

Pero incluso Dehillerin no tiene todo.  Afortunadamente, tres tiendas de la competencia están a menos de 5 minutos - si sabes donde buscar.

Mi favorita tiene que se Mora en la Rue Montmartre (foto superior). Es todo lo que no es Dehillerin.  Limpia, moderna y amable.  Se especializan en equipo profesional de repostería francesa.  Personal muy amable y conocedor.  Con muchos clientes japoneses que escuchan su sonoro 'Arigato Kosaimas' - 'Gracias' al salir de la tienda.  Pero no dejes que esto te detenga, esta tienda va en serio y los japoneses simplemente están bien informados.  Desde 1814. 

 

La némesis de Mora es Simon a unos pasos.  Cuidado, tienen dos tiendas juntas con dos entradas separadas en la Rue Montmartre números 48 y 52. Una tiene básicamente loza y accesorios, mientras que la otra se concentra en equipo de cocina profesional.  Tienen la mejor selección de herramientas que he vsto para los obreros del azúcar.  No me refiero a machetes, sino lámparas para el azúcar y guantes térmicos para trabajar con azúcar derretida y hacer caramelos, refractómetros y mi favorito, un batidor especial de azúcar.  Si en algo te consuela, la tienda estaba cerrada cuando la visité y aún no lo compro.  Desde 1884.

 

La que no me gusta tanto es La Bovida, pero no puedes no verla en su ubicación privilegiada en la esquina de la Rue Etienne Marcel y la Rue ?. Venden especias por kilo en la planta baja y artículos de cobre arriba.  Desde 1921.

 

Para ingredientes secretos de los arcanos, existe una sola dirección: G. Detout ('Yo. Todotengo') en la Rue Tiquetonne.  ¡Qué gente más agradable y qué cálida sensación de negocio familiar.  No venden nada de equipo, sólo ingredientes misteriosos utilizados por chefs pasteleros profesionales franceses.  Si ellos no lo tienen, te puedes dar por vencido.  Según François Schmitt de Lenôtre, el nombre del fundador si era Gilles Detout (que suena como 'tengo de todo'), por lo que el juego de palabras, si es intencional, es mejor de lo que suena.  Diles que te enviaron de la escuela de repostería de Lenôtre y te harán un 10% de descuento.

El año pasado les había comprado un caja grande de ceps secos Dried Ceps también llamados botones o porcinis secos y una de Morillas Secas de Primera, véase la foto de arriba.  ¡Qué agasajo!  Lo único que tienes que hacer es sumergirlas en la menor cantidad de agua posible  por 30 minutos.  Obtuve resultados muy agradables con mi Tagliatele al Foie Gras con Morillas.  También me vendieron una enorma bolsa de 2.5 kg de cobertura de chocolate Valrhona, que, sorpresa, sorpresa, aún no me acabo.  El extracto de bergamota bergamot extract lo utilizo en mi delliciosa salsa de chocolate que sirvo con helado de tomillo.


 

Esta vez compré una caja box de Hongos Mousserons secos, marasmius oreades en Latín.

Para decorar mi helado de tomillo, la receta pedía  Pétalos de violeta cubiertas de  azúcar que G. Detout vende por caja box. Los precios son muy razonables en esta tienda para cocinas profesionales y no pude resistir los Pétalos de verveine cubiertos de azúcar.

Finalmente, dos químicos que rara vez se comentan en tiendas de repostería pero que nunca faltan en los libros de cocina sobre nieves y repostería son el cremor tártaro y el estabilizador para nieve cream of tartar and sorbet stabilizer.

En realidad no necesitas ni necesitar ni comprar nada paraa disfrutar una visita a estas tiendas.  Y todas están a 5 minutos, una de la otra, en el centro de Paris. 

Dehillerin
www.e-dehillerin.fr
18-20 rue Coquillière
75001 Paris
+33 (0) 1 42 36 53 13

Mora
www.mora.fr
13 rue Montmartre
75001 Paris
+33 (0) 45 08 19 24

Simon
www.simon-a.com
48 + 52 rue Montmartre 75001 Paris
+33 (0) 42 33 71 65

La Bovida
www.labovida.com
36 rue Montmartre
75001 Paris
+33 (0) 1 42 36 09 99

G.Detout
58, rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris
+33 (0) 1 42 36 54 67


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40 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Andrew Grenier
A wonderful article. Just found your site and am delighted. I look forward to becoming a regular visitor. By the way, am also a photographer, so your blog and your perspectives appeal to my own inner cook.Am off to Rome and Paris in a few weeks and look forward to continuing to scour your site for related culinary info.  Thanks so much for all.Be well.Andrew
  • #2
  • Comment by Monica
We are off to Paris this weekend to stock up on needed cooking supplies.  Your fantastic www helped me remember where exactly to go.Fantastic articles! Thank you.
  • #3
  • Answered by fx
I am glad my blog helped you plan the trip to Paris. If you have a chance visit also Rungis, buy a macaroon at Pierre Hermé or take a pastry class at Lenôtre (see the other articles on my site). Have a good trip!
  • #4
  • Comment by Roxana
Superb! Pics and info are very user friendly. Look forward to shop at this places next week in Paris.
  • #5
  • Comment by mingyi
Would you please give me how much to add stabilizer for ice cream.
  • #6
  • Answered by fx
Stabilizer is not needed for homemade ice creams, it is required if you are going to store it for more than a few days to prevent the formation of ice crystals. But homemade products are best served on the same day and you won't need any stabilizer.
  • #7
  • Comment by suzy dickinson
I was lucky enough to stumble across De Hillerin in the late 70's. After a number of visits carting back copper pots,wooden rollng pins, knives, I managed to get my kitchen up to par. Is has now been over 30 years ... and not a day goes by that I don't use something from this store! The funny thing is ... .they had an attitude even back then. I am so happy to have found your site. Your pictures are fabulous ... and De Hillerin looks just the same. AMAZING. Too bad the Dollar is not! Thanks so much! Suzy
  • #8
  • Answered by fx
Suzy thanks for your comments, indeed DeHillerin sells things that can last a lifetime! The store is utterly outmoded but that's part of it's charm. I am not surprised they were rude already back then. Don't worry about the dollar, it will come back up some day.
  • #9
  • Comment by Cheryl
Just found your wonderful website!You and (and your readership as well) are like kindred spirits. I am so happy to have found you!I will be returning often.Cheryl*Does Dehillerin carry metal Financier pans?
  • #10
  • Answered by fx
Cheryl, thanks for visiting! I think Dehillerin is the place to visit first for metal Financier pans, or go to Mora at Rue Montmartre or check on the Mora website.
I'm in heaven and already (well, almost) on my way to Paris.Thank you for your good advice.
  • #12
  • Answered by fx
Jutta, have fun in Paris!
  • #13
  • Comment by Gerald
Excellent article.

Can you tell me where to go in Paris to buy a slide-out pots and pans storage caddy?





Gerald
  • #14
  • Answered by fx
Gerald, you should start on rue Montmartre near Les Halles, there are 3 shops there selling such things, otherwise check DeHillerin.
  • #15
  • Comment by Peter Best
We spent a month in Paris and found Dehillerin to be charming though mad. I suppose Americans might feel as if they deserve a lot of respect given their Imperial position but while the people in there in my experience don't behave any differently towards foreigners compared to locals they might seem a bit terse to people who are accustomed to obeisance and humility. They take their stuff very seriously and will make it clear that you're making a mistake if that's their opinion. And their stock pays no lip service to fashion, but concentrates on things that are useful and well made.  We lived around the corner from A Simon, Mora and  La Bovida and they're not serious in the way Dehillerin is.
  • #16
  • Answered by fx
Peter, indeed the people at Dehillerin are great examples of Parisian in-your-face rudeness, and if you can't answer them in accentless French there is just nothing to do but take it. For all my fondness for this shop I must say that many of their wares are a bit old-fashioned and not really the best you can have nowadays. I'd really recommend asking at Mora for more courteous service and more recent stock.
Wow,nice collection.Next Monday I will go to Paris,thanks for your good introduction.
I realy realy wants to thank you soooo much for the excellent blog and information, especially nice photos which describes step by step
You didn't forget and not miss any pages or item
Hugs & kisses
Mona
  • #19
  • Comment by simone
Hi I would like to know if there is any place in the USA that I could buy the mold for the lemoine canele? thx
  • #20
  • Comment by DL Day
Excellent information.  I knew most of these shops but not all and am happy to have their contact information all in one place.
DL Day
  • #21
  • Answered by fx
DL Day thanks for visiting and have fun in Paris! Don't miss Pierre Hermé's pastry shop out there on Rue Bonaparte.
The Detout shop is just lovely. We once got lost on our way to the Comme des Garcons-shop in Paris and found Detout instead. Their assortment beats everything I've seen before! And they are not that expensive either.

/Anders
Umeå, Swede
  • FX's answer→ Yes, a most lovely shop!

Hi, great article & pictures, thanks for all the info. We spent a month in Paris early in the year & I was sooo excited to go to Dehillerin, but what a disappointment! Yes I did manage to spend a fortune & get some great stuff, but even though I speak French I was still ignored, they were SO unfriendly & unhelpful. When I asked for specific items they just pointed to the opposite end of the store for me to find it myself, & continued standing around in a group doing nothing! There were so many staff who didnt seem to be doing anything, certainly not helping their customers. There was a lovely Vietnamese chap though who couldnt have been nicer, but he was run off his feet, of course. They also didnt have as much as I expected & were out of stock of most of the Demarle products I was after. Simon was a cleaner, lighter, nicer shop with better prices & Demarle & Silpat in stock. I will definitely check out your other suggestions next trip.
  • FX's answer→ Yes Mr Kim is the nicest of them all, isn't he? Now you should have started by reading my article "Paris Oldest Cooking Equipment Shop" and you would have been forewarned. Ah, the great evils that can fall upon you when you don't read FXcuisine.com hard enough...

  • #26
  • Comment by Len Straw
Thank you so much, a wonderful article! I live in Cape Town, South Africa and would like to purchase some sugared violet petals to use on cupcakes with violet flavoured icing in our coffee shop, "la Petite Tarte".  Fortunately I have a friend visiting Paris this week so I will be able to contact her and let her know where to shop! Thank you again.  Len Straw.
  • FX's answer→ But Len you can do your own, just find some edible flowers, covers then with egg white, sprinkle with sugar and let it dry. End of story!

  • #28
  • Comment by Cynthia A. Ty
Hi there!

I'd like to find out where in the USA West coast, particularly, in LA, one can buy the canele molds.  I prefer tin rather than silicone or copper which are so expensive.  Thanks so much.  Take care...

Hugs & kisses,
  • FX's answer→ Cynthia, I wouldn't bother with anything but proper cannelé molds - that is, copper. While I can see the appeal of the notion of baking good cannelés using convenient plastic mold, there is not reality to it. You'll just end up having to buy the proper molds and beeswak in the end. How would that save you money?

I went to Paris yesterday specifically to buy a flan ring, and this post was a great help, thank you so much!  I have recommended it on my blog :)
Happy cooking!
Green Apple Sorbet
  • FX's answer→ Thanks a lot, Green Apple!

Hi,
I'm looking for a weird thing. In a book by E. Nignon, he calls for a "moule a coulonne". Well, I assume it's shaped like a column but I've never seen or heard of one. Are they still available? Has anybody ever heard of them? Does anyone sell them? In any case, I'd like to put an annotation at the base of my translation explaining what it is.
Thanks so much for your attention,
best,
jim peterson
  • #33
  • Comment by claudia
me gusto y me gustaria ver las tienda los productos mandame la website
  • #34
  • Comment by Alex Casey
Dear FX

   Great articles on Kitchen Shops in Paris. Will be going to Paris for my first time in May and can't wait to check out the kitchen shops. Was wondering if you know of any used kitchen/restaurant shops where I might find some interesting old restaurant items.

Cheers
Alex
  • #35
  • Comment by Dale Coghlan
I visited Dehillerin looking for a porcelain creme a la coeur mold. No, they don't have them any more. Yes, chefs still make them; but obviously they don't break them so we don't need to stock them. I bought one on the internet from USA! Thank you for the list of other shops, so I don't have to visit Dehillerin again. I'll be there in June this year and can't wait.
Dale, Melbourne, Australia
  • #36
  • Comment by Sara
Super article. I'm looking for the cuit vapeur en céramique et bambou by JIA which I saw in Merci, but was hoping not to pay Merci prices. I don't think any of the above will have it, but I think I read there was a shop in Rue Lamartine, but can't find the link now. Can you help?
Thank you
Sara
  • #37
  • Comment by Jack McCord
While I agree that Dehillerin staff can be gruff, that has not been my experience most of the time (granted, I have native level French...).

Mora, on the other hand, is merchandised in a more modern way but last month they could not be bothered to get off personal phone calls to see if the verrines I had ordered were in. I went straight back to Dehillerin and bought some hardware. Tant pis!
  • FX's answer→ Yes I think at Mora they like to chat between themselves but the conversations are really nice, sometimes out of a Tarantino movie almost (without any criminal element of course but colorfoul!)

  • #39
  • Comment by charlotte
Thank you for this great guide. just been to Paris and I found this guide invaluable. Its funny how the size of queue really tells you so much about how good a store is.

G. Detou a tiny gorgeous pearl of a shop it was so crammed with Parisians when I went that I didn't get a proper chance to look round. staff where helpful and tolerant of my dodgy French desriptions of ingredients I wanted if a little brusque.

Mora was also similarly delightful and packed I even found the individual portion sized tart rings I'd been searching for all over the internet. Very nice and surprisingly amateur friendly shop.
  • FX's answer→ Yes these are two shops made mostly for the French and very interesting!


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