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Los Caracoles tienen 7 Vidas en L'Escargot Montorgueil

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¿Entonces cuántas vidas tiene un caracol?  Siete, en L'Escargot Montorgueil, El mejor restaurante para comer caracoles en Paris, donde tu concha puede haber sido servida a muchos comensales.

Tal vez no te guste la idea de comer caracoles, pero tienes que visitar l'Escargot Montorgueil en Paris.  Este bello rrestaurante de caracoles de finales del siglo 19 es de, para y por los caracoles. con su gran caracol dorado en la entrada.  Hasta 2004, era propiedad de un primo de Claude Terrail, propietario de La Tour D'argent.

Los caracoles tienen un larga historia en Francia, y había leído en Les Métiers Oubliés de Paris (Profesiones olvidadas de Paris), que en el siglo 19 había recolectores de conchas de caracol 'Marchands de coquilles d'escargots' que hurgaban los basureros de los restaurantes elegantes en busca de conchas de caracol usadas. Las revendían a resturantes más baratos.  No limpiaban las conchas, para que lo que les quedaba de salsa de mantequilla le diera sabor a la grasa barata que usaban en el segundo restaurante y pudieran venderlos a la plebe como 'escargots au beurre'.

Naturalmente, la siguiente vez que comí en L'Escargot, le conté a mis amigos esta historia e inspeccionamos las conchas para ver si en efecto el 'Marchand de coquilles d'escargots' era un oficio perdido.  Es claro que L'Escargot no compra conchas descartadas más que en Rungis. Aún así, noté al menos tres distintos grados de salsa quemada en la concha.  Manchitas diminutas, pero sin duda estas conchas habían sido usadas antes.

Entonces platiqué un poco con el mesero. 'Te debe dar gusto escuchar algo de francés de vez en cuando ¿Verdad?' , comencé. 'Si Monsieur, así es'. Aparte de nosotros, el restaurante estaba lleno de turistaas que no hablaban francés y de hecho sí estaba muy contento de hablar francés.  Dando un paso más le pregunté 'Aquí entre nos, ¿Cuántas veces reciclan las conchas?'. Lo tomé tan de sorpresa que no le dió tiempo de inventar algo 'Oh Monsieur, cuatro a cinco veces. Una buena concha te durará siete veces.'

Antes de que corras al baño, permíteme decir que lavan las conchas en la lavadora de loza, así es que no es más desagradable que comer con el mismo tenedor que otro tipo utilizó el día anterior, o que reutilizar las conchas de los callos de hacha.  Pero aún así, no creo que la mayoría de los clientes piensen que las conchas sean reutilizadas.

Comí cosas mucho peores  en mi escuela. El cocinero reciclaba sus brochetas de chipolata.  No solo las brochetas, sino los chorizos también, que eran servidos hasta tres veces.  Cada vez eran más oscuros.  Ante esto, convencí a mis amigos de desbaratar cualquier chorizo que quedara junto con las brochetas de madera para derrotar a este malvado cocinero.  Funcionó - o tal vez simplemente acabaron en la sopa. 

L'Escargot Montorgueil es un restaurante fino  al que no dudaría en regresar.  Lo mejor es ir el domingo en la mañana cuando toda la calle  Montorgueil se vuelve un mercado de comida food market.  También ofrecen Pato à l'Orange y algunos otros platillos no gastropódicos para los menos aventureros.

 

L'Escargot Montorgueil
www.escargot-montorgueil.com
38 rue Montorgueil
75001 Paris
+33 (0) 1 42 36 83 51

Publicado por la primera vez en Inglès el 02/04/2007
Amablemente traducido en español por RicardoSanchez el 08/09/2008
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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



15 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Kenny Koala
  • on: 04/04/2007
A most interesting article - it's good to know the French are pushing the boundaries of recycling. No fear of global warming or environmental disaster with them about. Might I also say it was extremely well-written too. And in English! Do you use one of those automatic translator sites like Dictionary.com- Translator or pay somebody to render it into the foreign tongue? You might be interested to know that here in Australia we have a dish called "Pie Floater L'Escargot" which is a meat pie swimming in pea soup, topped with a drizzle of tomato sauce and crowned with two escargots rampant. This, of course, is the sophisticated rendition - as found at some of the country's finest restaurants. Those who aren't sure about the difference between a pussy and a cat go for the basic version and dispense with the snails. Culture in this country has got a long way to go.On a technical matter - just as a matter of interest - do you moderate these comments before they are posted or could someone just write what they like and see it appear unedited? I, for instance, have a large number of cartoons of religious leaders which you might find interesting.All the best - The Koala
  • #2
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 05/04/2007
The Koala is too nice. Yes, me write English without online translator. That's really flattering - an Escargot Pie Floater now, makes one wish to be transported down under to taste the New World's delicacies. Indeed culture has a long way to go but they say sheeps are very friendly too down there.

Yes I do moderate these comments and the Koala is a friend of mine who wrote his comment, as I do mine, as a friendly joke.
  • #3
  • Comment by Artyom
  • on: 23/04/2007
Hi, I want to offer You natural etable snails from Armenia. Everything is certified by an official medical organisation.All interested firms can contact me by the following e-mail: art_avetisyan@msn.comor mob: +37491 402559
  • #4
  • Comment by esmeralda
  • on: 14/07/2007
Hello, como estas mira los escargots?
  • #5
  • Comment by Mitchell
  • on: 19/03/2008
Hello, interesting article on escargot. Why do they reuse shells if they are going to clean out the oil/seasoning? Or is there flavor in the shells themselves that is imparted to the snails when cooked? Is that why they reuse shells rather than use the original shells the snails are in along with possibility of one shell being more presentable than another? This process seems similar to when Chinese cooks boil chicken in a pot containing  water used to boil previous chicken such that flavor left in the water compounds with each boil and imparts more flavor into the chicken.
  • #6
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 24/03/2008
Mitchell, restaurant-grade shells are much harder to produce than edible snail flesh, so restaurants buy them separately in big bags and try to recycle them much as they would plates or cutlery as many times as they can. As for the chicken water, this is exactly how a French chef would make chicken stock to boil another chicken. The great cycle of life!
  • #7
  • Comment by Mr wang escargot snail Helix aspersa
  • on: 07/08/2008
 We are Beijing Jinmengxuan Snail Breeding Co., Ltd., of Beijing chian, We breeding snails Escargot Helix aspersa more than 17years ,  from a small farm become the largest professional breeding snail’s farm of china.
we can offer the fresh snails in the four season , important:we breeding the snails in the room in winter, so we can offer enough alive snails in winter and in four season
Now  we have already established wholesale snail farm and breeding snail in tunisia, so customers can buy the alive snails from tunisia very easy .
best regards
Mr. wang
Tel: 86-10-88807022
Email:snails8080@yahoo.com.cn
Que son unos cochinos. Como se les ocurre servir sobre lo que han dejado otros? GAS!!!
  • #9
  • Comment by KelliSue
  • on: 16/01/2009
I laughed out loud when I saw the snail on the little scooter.

I prepared escargots at home one day whilst I was pregnant with my 2 year old daughter. My 6 year old thought they were button mushrooms sautee'd in butter and garlic sauce, and commenced eating most of them while I was finishing a second pan at the stove. He was surprised to find they were snails, not fungi. Without missing a beat he volunteered to gather garden snails from our farm. I declined, citing we only eat French snails.  He was last seen picking up little snails, inquiring Parlez Vous Francais? and listening intently. I assured him only if he heard Oui, oui, I'd cook them. When I made Grasshopper (creme de menthe) brownies a few days later, he declined, saying he didn't really feel like eating grasshoppers today.  I'm just doing my part to introduce the family to a broad variety of foods.  Your blog makes for interesting conversations at our house. Our ducks are safe from eating after seeing the pressed duck article.
  • FX's answer→ Kelli Sue it is you who made me laugh today with the tale of your son asking if the snail speak French - that's a good one! Now many snails are edible and you could very well find good snails out there. Just remember to let them eat salad and milk in a box for at least 3 days so that their stomach is cleared of any potentially toxic content. And please don't cover them in salt while alive, this is cruel and unecessary. Have fun!

  • #11
  • Comment by aseniserare omowunmi
  • on: 23/06/2009
Hi, i have never seen where snail is being served with it shell.in my own country nigeria we served snail in plate as fried, roasted, boil and also serve with vegetables as soup.
i want to offer you alive natural eatable snail from nigeria.any interested hotel, resturant, or person can contact me on this address:

caromart nigeria enterprises
104, sagamu road ikorodu
lagos state
Nigeria
phone number:+2348037600617

 
  • #12
  • Comment by kathy agona
  • on: 21/07/2009
we were recently in Beaune, France and had the most amazing dish: Escargot & puff pastry in pea soup. I would like to make it at home, but I need a recipe.Any ideas? Thanks.
  • #13
  • Comment by Robert
  • on: 01/12/2009
Ate at the L'Escargot Montorgueil at an outdoor table with friends on a beautiful warm and sunny spring day.  Had the snail sampler, the the snails in curry sauce were excellent.  This restaurant is on a wonderful shopping steet.  Make sure you check out Sthorer Pastry shop down the street...famous for the rum baba.
Also, the licquor shop with the Calvados with the apple in the bottle.

Wonderful, wonderful find in Paris.

Enjoy.

Robert
  • FX's answer→ Yes this is a fun street with many food shops, but the overal ambience of Les Halles has been going down the pits for years. Continue to explore Paris and you'll find many enjoyable corners!

  • #15
  • Comment by john a johnson
  • on: 21/04/2011
I had the great occasion to have eaten there. I had the
snails as appetizers and ordered the Duck.  I discovered to much dissatisfaction that poulty is not cooked as we cook in the US to a certain temp in order to make sure it is done. This duck was med. rare if that. I sent it back and I think it may still have had its festhers on and could have done so on its on accord. I then ordered a dozen snails and enjoyed my meal despite the duck. I would go back there to eat anytime.

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