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Sizilianische Wagenradfahrer-Pasta (Seite 2 von 2)

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Herrliche, authentische sizilianische Pasta – und eine gute Ausrede den verlockenden Caciocavallo - der König unter den sizilianischen Käsen - rauszuholen.
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Um sicher zu gehen, dass das Basilikum frisch bleibt und nicht schwarz oder zu weich wird, sollte es mit einer Vorwärts-Rückwärts-Vorwärts-Bewegung geschnitten werden. Es genügt einfach nicht, es guillotine-artig von oben nach unten zu schneiden. Wenn man so verfährt, werden die Ränder des Basilikumblatts zermalmt und wird es schwarz werden, ehe man cornuto sagen könnte. Wenn man dieses Verfahren anwendet, kann man damit angeben, indem man es beim französischen Namen nennt – chiffonade ([SCHI-fo-nad], jede Silbe gleichlang betont]).

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Sollte man das Basilikum während des Kochvorgangs oder erst beim Servieren zuführen? Ich habe dieses Problem für mich nie lösen können und ich tue beides. Immerhin kann man nie genug Basilikum, der König der Kräuter, verwenden, oder?

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Für die meisten Menschen ist Öl ein notwendiges Übel, etwas, dass beim Kochen halt nicht ganz weggelassen werden kann. Also sollte man so wenig wie möglich davon verwenden, oder etwa nicht? Falsch. In Sizilien würzt Mamma die Soße immer mit einem guten Schuss Olivenöl nachdem die Soße fast fertig ist. Mit einem „guten Schuss“ meine ich etwa einen Deziliter. Hier benutze ich ein Öl, dass ich von meinem Freund Richard habe, der regelmäßig die Olivenhaine in der Toskana besucht. Sehr gut.

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Abdecken und auf der niedrigsten Flamme köcheln lassen bis die Pasta fertig ist.

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Man kann im Prinzip jede Art rohrenförmiger Pasta für dieses Gericht verwenden solange sie aus Hartweizengrieß gemacht und aus Bronze gezogen ist.

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Bitte die immer noch etwas nicht-garen Nudeln erst ins Sieb und dann in die Soße geben.

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Ich hatte ein leichtes gastronomisches Schuldgefühl als ich sah, dass eine meiner Paccheri aufgeplatzt war. Nicht wegen der Pacchero selbst, sondern weil ich in der Woche zuvor in einem Restaurant einen Teller mit derselben Pastasorte in die Küche zurück geschickt habe, da die Paccheri entsprechend überkocht waren. Ich hab sie nicht mal versuchen müssen, ich konnte schon von der anderen Seite des Raumes sehen, dass sie hoffnungslos überkocht waren. Der Maître d' kam zu mir, mehr genervt wegen der Pasta als wegen der Tatsache, dass ich sie hatte zurückschicken lassen und sagte: „Sie müssen verstehen, es ist eine recht schwierige Pasta um zu kochen, es dauert zwanzig Minuten.“ Ich antwortete, dass ich das verstünde und dass ich sie vor 20 Minuten bestellt hatte, aber dass die, die mir serviert wurde, sicher 40 Minuten im Kochtopf verbracht hatte – und dass ich verstünde, falls sie nicht in der Lage wären, die Pasta anständig zu kochen, aber dass sie sie dann auf jeden Fall nicht auf ihr Menü setzen sollten. Der Maître d' gab zu, dass die Pasta vorgekocht war und entschuldigte sich. Also man verstehe, wie ich mich gefühlt haben muss, als ich jenes aufgeplatzte Pacchero sah! Sie waren trotzdem sehr bissig und auf jeden Fall al dente.

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Den geriebenen Caciovallo ...

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... zu dem chiffonierten Basilikum dazugeben.

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Rühren...

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...und servieren. Jetzt kann man wie ein Wagenradfahrer fluchen und behaupten, noch nie so verdammt ¬§°@#§°#@ gute Pasta in seinem Leben gegessen zu haben.


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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



32 Kommentare

I used to have a sicilian neighbor who made this dish - or at least one very similar to it - all the time.  I don't think she had regular access to the Caciocavallo, though.    She called it "Carretiera Rosa", though - the "rosa" referrred to the tomatoes.  She made another version of it that was non-rosa, and instead used some toasted bread crumbs and onion to thicken the sauce.  That version remains to this day one of my favorite ways of preparing pasta.

Her recipes were great in the right hands.  Sadly, hers were not the right hands; she was sort of awful as a cook. She was always scorching the garlic or using underripe tomatoes, etc.  Whenever my family got our hands on her recipes - aracini, caponata, pasta ala carretiera - it became evident that these were some fine, fine foods abused by a siclian woman who had the lineage but not the aptitude.
  • #2
  • Von: Richard
I concur that paccheri is tricky to cook! Particularly for any more than 2 people. You need a very large pan as full as you safely dare with rolling, boiling water.

I find it best to stand over them and give them the occasional stir to keep them from sticking to the base of the pan.

Superb recipe Francois. If one can't get caciocavallo cheese is there a near equivalent we can try that might be more accessible?
A little question. Is Caciocavallo a smoked/geräucherter cheese?

Chapeau, I discovered your blog at the week-end and found some mouthwatering recipys to recook.

Grüße aus Berlin,
Martin
www.berlinkitchen.com
That looks amazing!  I have never tried that cheese before but I will look for it a local Italian deli that imports straight from Italy.
  • #5
  • Von: felix
Possibly your best article yet! ''capo di tutti capi''!!!!!! Cool shit!!!! Trying this out TOMORROW!!!
  • #6
  • Von: Luci
Hi Francois Xavier,

What a beautifully simple dish.  I think that I have seen a similar cheese (who could forget that unique shape?) in Toronto, Canada, but didn't think anything of it.  If I see it again, I will surely think of you, pick it up and make this dish!

Would it be served with any other pasta shape or is it crucial to serve with tubes?  Thanks again, FX!
  • #7
  • Von: Alys
Another tasty looking recipe. Thanks again!

Here in Vancouver caciocavallo is readily available. I love the smoked variety as a melting cheese for pasta and sandwiches.

1 dl (100 ml) should be approximately 3 oz, rather than 0.3, no?
According to Wikipedia -i know it is not the most reliable source- caciocavallo is related to the Turkish cheese Kasar -Greek kassere-. Shaped differently, the "old Kasar -Eski Kasar" i used eat in Turkey looks very similar to texture in the pictures. Those in Europe may have access to this cheese through their Turkish markets. I'll definitely look for caciocavallo to see if they actually taste similar.

As a side note, it is interesting to see how cheese from different parts of the world are very similar. There is a Middle Eastern desert called künefe-kenefeh, which uses a special fresh cheese from certain parts of Turkey. I could not eat a decent künefe in most of the restaurants in Turkey, as it is hard to get this traditional cheese. However the künefe in Berlin Turkish restaurants are exceptionally good. I learned later the reason was that the restaurants are using fresh mozzarella as a perfect substitute.  

And a humble suggestion, I add lemon peels towards the end to my tomato sauces. Works great if you have fresh fragrant lemons.
  • #9
  • Von: ND
Hey FX! My somewhat shaky knowledge of various latin languages suggests that "cavallo" might mean "horse"—if so, I'm curious as to what "cacio" might mean?
FX, I saw cheeses that looked just like this in markets in some parts of Argentina when I was working there in 2006. Given how many people of Italian descent live in Argentina, I wonder if it was the same cheese?
  • #11
  • Von: Gio
I checked a dictionary, since your answer made me wonder too!
There's no sure explanation for the name "caciocavallo".
"Cacio" refers to a cheese in Tuscany and Umbria (2 Italy's regions) and nowadays also in southern regions.
About the link between a cheese and a horse, my dictionary suggest that it might be because:
- of the shape
- of a mark burned in (as for horses, cows...)
- the cheese is conserved astride a board
I got no clue about which one is the true one... =/
  • #12
  • Von: Paulina  C. L. Tognato
We've some cheese like this here. His name is "cabaça".
We've many italians in our country and much milk to made it.
My favorite is one year old.
But here, isn't a cheese with much "glamour".
I think you're right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is one of the best pasta in the world!!!!!!!!!!


  • #13
  • Beantworted von fx
Eric, ah yes, the ladies often must cook out of social duty rather than choice, and the quality suffers from it. Us males we cook when we damn please and of course it makes us, on average, better cooks, as those of us who don't like cooking can get away with never cooking a day in their life!
  • #14
  • Beantworted von fx
Richard, yes indeed those damn paccheri tend to stick to the bottom of the pots and then tear open, those ungrateful bastards. You could replace caciocavallo with a good, hard vintage Cheddar for instance, if you grate it this might work out OK. Caciocavallo does not have a very strong or particularly excellent taste, but with its funny shape and sweet distinctive taste, it is always nice to use. Never buy less than a whole head!
  • #15
  • Beantworted von fx
Berlinkitchen, thanks for visiting! No, caciocavallo is not smoked but there are other cheeses of the same pulled curds variety that are indeed smoked, they look like smoked mozzarella.
  • #16
  • Beantworted von fx
Louise, if you can find it in a local deli do buy it, but beware as there are many other cheeses that look like this one but are different. Most of the caciocavalli I see around my parts are plastic ones for store decoration!
  • #17
  • Beantworted von fx
Felix, thank you for your praise.
Il capo di tutti i capi
FX
  • #18
  • Beantworted von fx
Luci, I think you can serve this with any hardwheat (durum semolina) pasta. The cheese is well worth buying, you can have some friends over and show it to them, very memorable!
  • #19
  • Beantworted von fx
Alys, I think the smoked one is actually proval affumicata from Naples, caciocavallo comes from Sicily. They look much the same, but are different cheeses and I've been had by unscrupulous Neapolitan cheesemongers a couple times myself!
  • #20
  • Beantworted von fx
Ahmet, thanks for your comments! Could you tell me what are the very best Turkish cheeses and from which parts of Turkey they come from?
  • #21
  • Beantworted von fx
Nathan, the cheese is named 'On a horseback' as it is prepared by twos and left to hang on a pole like the balls of a bull on each side, or the legs of a horseman. Hence the name!
  • #22
  • Beantworted von fx
Lyra, there are a couple cheeses that look like caciocavallo, such as provolone and scamorza. They are different cheeses but unless you have tasted them or really know them well you won't be able to tell.
  • #23
  • Beantworted von fx
Paulina, this sounds like a nice Italo-Brazilian cheese, and if they mature it for 12 months it must be pretty good. Are there many cheese varieties made in Brazil?
  • #24
  • Von: stumo
I have to second that caciocavallo is quite easy to find in Vancouver, Canada. And not just at specialty Italian food stores, some supermarkets regularly carry it, and I've been using it for years. And it's definitely caciocavallo, not provolone or provola affumicata.
are some of the pictures missing? yesterday it looks like there are only a few pictures for each recipe, where yesterday each was complete  :(
  • #26
  • Von: simon
Am I missing something??? I see the ingredients list, and the prep of the cheese, but I don't the procedure for cooking the pasta and it's sauce, or a picture of the final product...
  • #27
  • Beantworted von fx
Simon, FXcuisine.com caught the Chinese flu yesterday but now all articles are back online!
  • #28
  • Beantworted von fx
Kara, FXcuisine.com caught the Chinese flu yesterday but now all articles are back online!
  • #29
  • Von: Marcelline Thomson
Loved this recipe, love this beautiful site. Now all I have to do is find this cheese, which, in Manhattan, may not be impossible.  Two things, however:  you say add garlic to sauce when, in fact, garlic and onion had already been sauteed and the tomatoes added to IT.  And I'm also confused as to the size of the can of tomatoes -- a 4-oz can?  I don't think the can in the photo is only 4 oz?  And, in any case, seems too little.

Thank you.  Marcelline
  • #30
  • Beantworted von fx
Marcelline, indeed you have a sharp eye and found these mistakes in my article. The tomato can is 400 grams or about 14 oz. As for the garlic, you cannot add too much. Some people fry the garlic in the olive oil to flavor the oil, then discard the garlic before proceeding. And then you can add some crushed garlic for a less subtle garlic taste - something right up a Sicilian cartwheel driver's alley!
  • #31
  • Von: James
Just tried this recipe tonight and it was terrific. Once I was able to track down the Caciocavallo, everything else was a snap. Great article!
  • FX's answer→ James, glad you got around to try this Sicilian classic!


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