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Hachis Parmentier es comida francesa casera en su mejor expresión -preparada lentamente durante 3 días.  En 3 minutos verás como se hace.

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El boticario Antoine-Augustin Parmentier (1737-1813) se pasó la vida haciendo campaña para que las papas se declararan oficialmente comestibles, y después en convencer a sus compatriotas de hacerlas una costumbre en su mesa.  Uno de sus muchos ardides publicitarios incluyó ofrendas de ramos de flores de papa al rey y dar cenas centradas en la papa presentando a Benjamin Franklin.  Cuando la hambruna golpeó en 1785, Parmentier ganó y los franceses comenzaron a comer papas de ahí en adelante.

El platillo más popular nombrado en memoria de Parmentier es hâchis Parmentier, un pie francés casero normalmente ligado a las ferias escolares, pero déjenme decirles que yo me tomo mi Parmentier en serio.

La carne y las papas en este plato son rabo de res con puré de papas.

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Primero, compra tu rabo de res.  Luego córtralo con tu cuchillo más grande ...

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... en segmentos manejables.  Tienen que caber en un recipiente poco profundo donde marinarás la carne.

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Añade un par de zanahorias peladas y rebanadas, unos dientes de ajo, granos de pimienta, una hoja de laurel, unas cebollitas de cambray, un manojo de perejil y un poro limpio cortado a lo largo por la mitad.  Vacíale una botella de un tintazo fuerte...

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... hasta que el rabo se ahogue.  Tápalo con papel aluminio y refrigéralo 2 días.  La carne se pondrá roja red.

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El día que cocines esto, prepara dos ollas de hierro fundido, un cuenco y una espumadera.

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Retira los ingredientes sólidos de la marinada y ponlos en tu cuenco vacío.

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Cuela la marinada marinade y viértela en una olla para calentarla warm it up. Nota como las zanahorias que estaban sumergidas a medias, parecen medios betabeles half beetroots.

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Calienta un poco de aceite en una olla de hierro fundido grande y coloca las rebanadas de rabo de res en la olla pot. Saltea a fuego alto hasta que la carne esté asada por todos lados.  El propósito es generar sabor en la carne asada utililzando la reacción de Maillard, otro boticario francés.  No intentamos sellar los jugos en la carne ni tonterías como esa - sólo aumentar el sabor antes del largo cocimiento.

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Cuando al carne esté lista, añade las cebollitas y los dientes de ajo a la olla.

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Tu marinada de vino tinto debe estar ya caliente - necesitas calentarla.  No seas flojo y la añadas fría del refrigerador o lo arruinarás todo.  En una maniobra majestuosa deja que la marinada caiga como cascada carmesí en la olla.  Hice esto con mi cámara en la otra mano - ¡Las cosas que hago por mis lectores! 

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Rebana el poro ...

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... y agrégalo a la olla junto con el perejil.

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Dale un hervor fuerte, tápalo y reduce el fuego al mínimo.  Déjalo cocer 2 horas.

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Después de dos horas, nuestro líquido se ha reducido y la carne , que antes era rabo duro, azote de las moscas, es ahora tan suave como un budín.

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Comienza a jalar o deshebrar la carne con un tenedor.  Importante: asegúrate de utilizar únicamente la carne o músculo, y de dejar la grasa y las partes gelatinosas junto con los huesos, no son muy agradables si las masticas.

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Cuela los ingredientes sólidos que quedan en el líquido de cocción (el líquido que hasta ahora habíamos llamado 'marinada')  De nuevo pon a cocer este líquido hasta que se reduzca a más o menos media taza...

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...y combínalo con la carne deshebrada y mantenla caliente.  ¿Quién iba a decir que tendrías que jalarle el rabo a una res?

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Preparemos las papas.  Limpia un kilo (2 libras) de papa blanca.  Alfa o similar  y ponlas a cocer con la piel ...

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... luego pásalas por agua fría hasta que las puedas agarrar y pelar.

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Machaca las papas a la antiguita - nada de batidoras por favor.  Si eres un masoquista que ama la comida las puedes pasar por un colador fino, así es como lo hace Joël Robuchon, o al menos, ese es el suplicio al que sus cocineros son sometidos.

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Añade un poco de crema y el pedazo más grande de mantequilla butter qu encuentres...

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... y mezcla hasta que esté suave.  Sazona con sal, pimienta y nuez moscada.

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Engrasa un recipiente para hornear ovenproof dish y pon a descansar ahí la mitad del puré de papas en una capa pareja.  Cubre con la carne braseada...

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... y luego otra capa de puré de papa.

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Ponle un poco de Gruyère rallado o de algún otro queso al que le guste el horno ...

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... y termina con trocitos de mantequilla para lograr una bonita costra.

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Hornea en horno caliente hasta que la cubierta esté dorada y crujiente, 10 - 30 minutos.  Se trata de calentar el guizo y darle un buen sabor a gratinado.

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Lo serví en platos de barro de Moustiers Ste Marie, un encantador pueblo francés donde pequeños talleres artesanales han estado haciendo platos de barro desde los tiempos de Parmentier.  Si te fijas bien en mi plato, tiene la flor de papa que es el diseño distintivo que se encuentra en todos los platos de barro de Moustier.  O al menos eso dice la tradición, explicando la presencia de la triada Rey-Papa-Parmentier en todos los productos de Moustier.  No encuentras muchos de éstos en las ferias escolares.

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Corta como lassagna ...

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... y sírvelo.  ¡Un gran platillo para familias grandes y para el gourmet con gusto por la historia!

Convencer a tus invitados de comer rabo de res puede ser una 'papa caliente', mejor sólo diles que es 'res'.


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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



57 comentarios

As always, this dish looks both delicious and beautiful. Now all I'll be thinking about for the next couple of hours is food.

But I do believe you are hiding a secret ingredient from us. On the picture with the sliced leek and the parsley, you seem to have some other herb too. Looks like it has slightly wooden stalks--thyme/oreganum?
  • #2
  • Comment by marilia
HUMMMMM!!!!!
  • #3
  • Comment by MacH
That looks fantastic!
  • #4
  • Answered by fx
Yes, it's a good dish!
  • #5
  • Answered by fx
Daniel, you have bionic eyes! Yes a twig of oregano was there indeed! But you can use many other herbs, they are simmered so long that it's unlikely any specific herb except hemlock would throw the flavors off balance.
What a great job, FX! to prepare "hachis parmentier" that way, specialy made. I only do parmentier when I cook a "pot au feu" using more meat than necessary. Of course I join an oxtail... The broth is absolutely savory and I do "two in one".
Instead of cheese, I use butter on the top, only butter.
Congratulations for your cooking stove.
  • #7
  • Comment by Gemma
WOW! I don't know how you do it but you managed to blew me away with every post of yours!! Love it~

Just out of curiousity though, do you eat such gastronomical meal everyday? :)
  • #8
  • Answered by fx
Gemma, thanks. Yes, pretty much every day, although these dishes can last for a couple days. This week I had pesto soup for 3 nights for instance. If you bring it back to a minutes-spent-cooking-per-portion it's not so long!
  • #9
  • Answered by fx
Gamelle, sounds like a great way to recycle delicious pot-au-feu leftovers!
  • #10
  • Comment by bitrboy
Oxtail braised in red wine is one of my favourite dishes, and I make it quite regularly.  I noticed that you didn't skim the fat from the cooking liquid.  Since oxtail is very fatty, does this not leave the finished dish a bit greasy, or is the fat offset by the starchiness of the potatoes?  Great post.
  • #11
  • Comment by Richard
Hi Francois,

Another one for my list! Superb article (as we have come to expect). Keep them coming and we'll keep cooking them!

Oxtail is on my shopping list for tomorrow morning.

All the best

Richard
  • #12
  • Comment by Gary V
This looks so good.  I'd like to attempt it myself, yet it seems so time consuming.  
Hallo Francois,

perfect recipy for my wine-tastings!  

How much oxtail did you use?

Nice week-end,
Martin
P.S.   One critical aspect of this terrific recipy seems to me the cheese. Is it not too much flavor for the oxtail, Francois?
  • #15
  • Comment by Ckfusionist
Ah , all those cheese , cream , butter explains the cholesterol bill...hahaha. The local Aussies eat an average 14kg of cheese per year , so i guess it would be averaging the same with Euro  ??
Fat and gelatinous bits unpleasant under the tooth? Bosh! I just polished off some braised oxtails and so long as you eat those bits hot (that is, uncongealed), they're quite pleasant. Keeps you warm in winter, too.
That looks devine!
Potatoes are one of my favorites. Do you think you could use another cut of meat though? Not sure if I could find a whole oxtail around here. I know I've seen ox tail cut up at the butcher, that would work, no?
Nice post Francois, it's woderfull this parmentier. Good confort food for the winter.Love it.
  • #19
  • Comment by Dean Gilliland
Looks alot like another comfort food from farther north usually reffered to as Shepard's Pie.
  • #20
  • Comment by jensenly
Holy cow!  I have heard that ox tail is amazing and your recipe and photos have now convinced me that it's true!

Are school messes the same thing as a school cafeteria in the US?

I think I could eat this every week.....you are divine, Francois!
  • #21
  • Answered by fx
Jensenly, yes oxtail is a respectable part of the ox, very edible in fact! In French we call the places were kids eat at school a refectoire, I thought this would translate as school mess but it sounds very much like a school cafeteria. The main point is to serve unhealthy food badly prepared although there are notable exceptions fortunately.
  • #22
  • Answered by fx
Dean, yes indeed it's a French cousin of the Shepherd's Pie but prepared the French way.
  • #23
  • Answered by fx
Cris thanks for your visit, this year winter seems to be every other day up here in the Alps, time for confort food!
  • #24
  • Answered by fx
Laura you can have the oxtail cut, no worry, or use other braising-grade beef. Many people use pot-au-feu leftovers (stewed meet with vegetables) to good effect.
  • #25
  • Answered by fx
Ben, I must have found couch-potato ox with a very fat tail!
  • #26
  • Answered by fx
CKfusionist, we Swiss certainly like our cheese, but you can just sprinkle the surface with bits of butter and you'll get a nice brown crust just the same.
  • #27
  • Answered by fx
Berlinkitchen, the cheese is nice and given the small amount really doesn't hide the oxtail's braised flavors which are quite strong anyway.
  • #28
  • Answered by fx
BerlinKitchen, I only used one oxtail.
  • #29
  • Answered by fx
Gary, it's not that long. Preparing the marinade takes 10 minutes, then braising. The potato purée takes some time, but most of the recipe is spent waiting as it cooks.
  • #30
  • Answered by fx
Richard good luck with the Parmentier!
  • #31
  • Answered by fx
Bitrboy, indeed you could skim the fat off the top for a leaner dish, but with the amount of potatoes it worked well.
Thank you Francois for your reply. How much is one oxtail? 2 kg??
In Berlin they sell only pieces.
  • #33
  • Comment by Rosedarpam
Only my second visit to your website and find myself entranced once again.  Oxtails are one of my many favorites.  This recipe is so elegantly simple, yet I can tell by its careful preparation that it must be wonderful.  The supermarkets in Honolulu only have cut oxtails, but if I go to Chinatown, I'm sure I can convince the butcher to supply a whole one.
  • #34
  • Answered by fx
Rosedarpam, thanks for your kind words! You could use other meats as well but a cut oxtail is just perfect, I used the whole thing because I could and it looks more dramatic, but hey, it doesn't even fit in my fridge, let alone in a bowl for marination!
  • #35
  • Comment by Michael
Love the post - love the knive you cut the oxtail with. I can't recognize its brand on the photo, could you give me a hint?
Every image you capture of each step of the dish preparation captures more than one could ever imagine. Upon the revelation of the finished product, I'm awestruck. It's amazing how something so simple as Cottage Pie can be beheld as a masterpiece.

As peculiar as this may sound, I think I actually may want to cry at how gorgeous everything appears. I'm so happy I've stumbled upon your blog; definitely going to experiment and test out some of your fantastic and unique recipes - I'm always trying to find ways of making the common quite the contrary.
  • #37
  • Comment by Janet
Fx what a wonderful recipe! I enjoyed every minute of the cooking process. There is nothing like being at work and knowing that at home the dish is quietly evolving and gathering its flavours. On the night of 'the simmering' I could hardly wait to get home and begin! Thank you for all the fun.   
  • #38
  • Answered by fx
Janet, I am so glad you got around to try this long-simmered dish and even thought about it during the day! Well done!
  • #39
  • Answered by fx
Manda, thanks for your kind words! Many times too I have tears come to my eyes when looking at a still life, and a few times this happens when looking at my own pictures. Then I know we have, for a moment, managed to show the miracle of life in a rectangular frame.
  • #40
  • Answered by fx
Michael, you'll learn everything about this knife in my article: Paris Oldest Kitchen Equipment Shop.
...the things I do for my readers - that is why we keep coming back and we know that the pot was really heavy and having to balance and focus the camera in the other hand - you are a master indeed!
  • #42
  • Comment by Laura D.
Looks fabulous.  I love oxtails, though I have to admit that since mad cow disease has surfaced, I am more hesitant to eat them (you know, brain and spinal cord tissue--sorry to be a crepe-hanger).  In U.S. stores, I've only ever seen cut up oxtail, though when I worked as a cook, the restaurant sometimes got whole ones from the meat wholesalers--when we forgot to ask to have them cut.

One question though--why waxy potatoes?  I have always used starchy/mealy potatoes for mashing and was under the impression that the texture is better (lighter, mealier, not so dense).  Have I been wrong all these years?
  • #43
  • Answered by fx
Laura, thanks for visiting my site! The oxtail simmers for so long that even the most resistant prions might not survive, although you do raise a valid point and we might check with some health scientist to be certain. As for the type of potatoes, be calm, the problem rests not with your cooking skills but with my English! I have now corrected the recipe to "starchy".
Awesome!.....
I like it,I actually may want to cry at how gorgeous everything appears and definitely going to experiment and test out some of your fantastic and unique recipes.
  • #45
  • Answered by fx
Toaster ovens, thanks for visiting and I hope you'll get to try a couple of my recipes!
  • #46
  • Comment by Xavier
Hi fx !

What a better dish than a "Hachis Parmentier" for a confortable dinner with a bunch of friends. I'm planning to prepare one next week and was wondering how much oxtail I would need for 10 guests. It's hard to assess how much muscle you can extract from an oxtail.
And do you have any advice for a good butcher in the Lausanne area who could have great oxtail ?

Thanks again for your fantastic site and articles !
  • FX's answer→ Xavier, I wish you success with your hachis! For the butcher just don't go to Globus, my experience is that meat is expensive and not always fresh there. Not sure whom to recommend, I don't buy my meat in Lausanne...

  • #48
  • Comment by jorge Moctezuma
Looks just delicious! Congratulations!
  • FX's answer→ Thanks and hope you can try this with some Mexican beef!

  • #50
  • Comment by Marc
Impressed! Would never have thought about using the oxtail. Great idea! They are readily available here (Spain) as it´s a national dish (rabo de toro)

One question, I have always made Hachis Parmentier with breadcrumbs and butter on top and not cheese. Am I completely wrong? Cheese is more commonly used?
  • FX's answer→ Marc, there are loads of variations of this dish, it was made to use leftovers of stewed or roasted meats and you can perfectly use butter and breadcrumbs instead of cheese. The spirit of this dish is to make something new and tasty from what you have in the fridge.

Great recipe! I have to try it at home!

By the way, the knife you used to cut the meat... Isn't it meant to cut salmon? :)
  • FX's answer→ Indeed it is, read article 7 to see where and how I bought this knife!

Wow awesome food for the winter! Probably put a toll on my cholesterol but it would be worth it. I also love cheese, and a meal like this would be great with a nice bottle of shiraz classic.
  • #55
  • Comment by anamaria
Amazing dish!!! Love the oxtail (my granny used to make an amazing soup from it and I loved to eat the fat and gummy stuff - taste like marrow a little - another great thing!!!!)
No more recipes lately?
Ana
  • #56
  • Comment by Baldo
Una contundente y buena receta invernal, en España el rabo de toro se consume sólo, con unas patatas fritas de acompañamiento, cocinado con vino tinto, o blanco (en Córdoba, donde es famoso se usa vino de Montilla-Moriles). Y queda espectacular, cocinándolo como en su receta, con más caldo y haciendo después un arroz, según la receta de arroz caldoso española (de grano redondo, tipo bomba o carnaroli, arbóreo o baldo). Un saludo
  • FX's answer→ Gracias


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