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Ravioles de Papa

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Comida casera italiana en esteroides.  Sólo a los italianos les encanta tanto la pasta como para rellenarla con ingredientes tan simples como las papas.  Y que razón tienen, éste es un platillo muy refinado - y muy accesible.

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Fuera de Itralia la pasta hecha en casa se asocia con la atmósfera enrarecida de los restaurarntes caros y lujosos.  Esto aplica especialmente para la pasta rellena (ripieni) que la mayoría de la gente cree que solo es comestible cuando se rellena de langosta y caviar.  Sin embargo en Italia mucha gente hace pasta en casa y utilizan ingredientes muy humildes con muy buenos resultados, como por ejemplo una pasta con frijoles.  Esta semana te mostraré como hacer un platillo simple y muy popular - ravioles rellenos de papa.  Ésta es una receta familiar tradicional del norte de Italia, comida casera en esteroides, si me permites el término.  Por favor toma en cuenta que los italianos le tienen tanta adoración a sus pastas que les ponen cientos de nombres de cariño - se trata de balbuceo con bebés en la cocina.  Así, éstos los encontrarás como  raviolis o tortellis o agnolottis dependiendo de la región o del restaurante.

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Comienza or preparar la pasta equivalente a un huevo más su harina por invitado.  Cuanta harina dependerá del tamaño de los huevos y la humedad relativa de tu cocina ese día en particular, pero como regla general, yo utilizo como 100 gr (3 oz) de harina para un huevo de 70 gramos (2 oz).  Mezcla el harina y los huevos flour and eggs ya sea a mano haciendo un volcancito de harina, o con una super batidora como en la foto.

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Amasa unos 10 minutos, luego forma una bola.  Envuélvela en film plástico y mantenla en un lugar fresco como una hora.

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Mientras, preparemos el relleno.  Hierve 2 papas grandes o 4 pequeñas por invitado hasta que estén cocidas.  Si puedes utiliza papas con mucho almidón.

 

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Finalmente pica una cebolla pequeña por cada dos invitados y fríela en un poco de mantequilla en una sartén caliente hasta que se suavice.

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Mientras, pela las papas y cuando la cebolla esté suave, agrégalas a la olla.

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Añade una cuchara de concentrado de jitomte o lo necesario solamente para darle un color rosado a tus papas ...

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... y machaca para obtener una pulpa.

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Agrega apenas la crema necesaria para obtener una mezcla suave pero no líquida.

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Agrega tanto parmesano rallado como quieras - para mí eso quiere decir mucho, pero hay quienes sólo le ponen una cuchara.  Sólo agrega un poco, pruébalo y añade más si es necesasrio.  Puedes rallar el resto sobre los tortellis terminados.

¡En la siguiente página verás como estirar la masa y darle froma a los raviolis/tortellis!

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Nuestro relleno está listo y nuestra masa ya ha reposado.  Toma un pedazo de masa del tamaño de un chabacano y estíralo con una máquina de hacer pasta o con un rodillo en una superficie ligeramente enharinada.  Estírala hasta que esté muy delgada, hasta la penúltima marca de la maquina.

 

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Luces, cámara ...

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... ¡Acción! Coloca una tira rectangular de pasta sobre un trapo de algodón ligeramente enharinado.  Esto asegura que tu pasta no se pegue, pero no te excedas con el harina ya que dejaría feos parches en los ravioles terminados.  Con tu uña si eres una dama, o con un cuchillo romo si eres un caballero, traza muy ligeramente líneas paralelas a lo largo de la mitad de tu tira de pasta, luego traza líneas trasversales para formar pequeños cuadrados.  Ahora imagina a un pajarito  jugando al avión en este imaginario tablero de ajedrez y soltando una cagadita de relleno de exactamente del mismo tamaño en cada cuadro que va pasando. Continúa hasta haber cubierto la mitad de la pasta con pequeñas cantidades de relleno a intervalos iguales.  La cantidad exacta depende del tamaño de tus cuadros.  Es mejor poner de menos que demás o no podrás cerrar los ravioles. 

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Dobla la parte libre de la tira de pasta sobre la que cubrió el pajarito y presiona suavemente con los dedos para delinear los ravioles.  Con un cortador de pasta, corta con cuidado tiras de ravioles, una por una ...

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... luego corta trasversalmente para separar cada raviolo.  Compré este bonito cortador de ravioli en Cremona, Italia, pero puedes encontrar similares por centavos  en Ebay o en los pasillos de artículos de repostería de muchos supermercados.  Asegúrate que el cortador no sólo corte sino que también presione los bordes para sellarlos, de otra manera tendrás escurrimientos.

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Puedes usar los recortes de la pasta en una sopa o preparar pasta al día siguiente y llamarla maltagliati (malcortada).

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Deja que los ravioles se sequen en una charola especial para secar pasta o simplemente sobre una toalla de algodón limpia, seca y ligeramente enharinada hasta que estés listo para cocerlos.

 

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Llena tu olla más grande de agua, agrégale un poco de sal y ponla a hervir.  Cuando el agua hierva como las aguas de Lago Lucerna en el primer acto de William Tell, la ópera de Rossini, echa tus ravioles todos a un tiempo.  Asegúrate de sacudir toda el harina de los ravioles antes de meterlos al agua.

 

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Debeb cocerse en menos de 2 minutos.

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En cuanto la pasta esté casi completamente cocida - y eso quiere decir antes de que de hecho esté totalmente cocida - sácalos con un colador.  Por favor no vacíes toda la olla de agua en un colador como algunas mamas suizo alemanas iletradas porque arruinarías todo tu trabajo cuando los ravioles se te abran.  En cambio, péscalos suavemente con el colador o con un araña de cocina como una mama suizo alemana instruida.

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Aquí lo tienes - refinamiento italiano con los ingredientes más básicos.  El triunfo del trabajo, el ingenio humano y el arte sobre la entropía universal.  Acabas de hacer la pasta más delicada utilizando simples papas y harina.

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Felicítate a ti mismo por un trabajo bien hecho y come tantos ravioles como puedas antes de que otros en casa se den cuenta de lo que se están perdiendo.

Publicado por la primera vez en Inglès el 29/09/2008
Amablemente traducido en español por RicardoSanchez el 02/10/2008
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If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!



48 comentarios

  • #1
  • Comment by Catherine
  • on: 29/09/2008
FX, these look delicious. They remind me that I need to try making pasta one of these days!

Do you think they would freeze well? When I make Russian pelmenyi, which are similar to ravioli, I always make a lot and then freeze some so that I can keep eating them for a few days.
  • #2
  • Comment by zorra
  • on: 29/09/2008
I did Ravioli today, too. Mine look not so perfect as yours. :-(
There are so many reasons I love your food porn.  The crispness and sharpness of the images, the succulence of the food.

I had to laugh when I read your desription about how Italians include "such plain ingredients to stuff pasta" - but you could not be more correct.  One of my favorite indulgences is potato gnocchi which I now make on a whim.  Your gorgeous step by step photo instructions definitely have me wondering about the beautiful potato ravioli.

A while back, my BF said, "Oh, you Italians, my heart bleeds for you."  This of course got him a sideways look from me.  "Oh?" I said, awaiting the explanation.  "Yes.  You're so poor that you have to take cheap ingredients and make THIS wonderful dish or THAT incredible dish...I'm sure it was a difficult existence."  I understood the compliment after I peeled away the sarcasm :D.  He's so right.  If my mother couldn't make a feast out of $3, my brother and I would have lived a miserable existence growing up but luckily, she had many culinary tricks up her sleeves.  

My brother and I try every day to live up to that rich legacy of making a bounty out of nothing and culinary memories based on simple ingredients and fuss-free techniques.  

Thanks for all the work you put into this site.  It never ceases to amaze me.
  • #4
  • Comment by Colin Gore
  • on: 29/09/2008
FX,

What a delightful allusion to bird-poop hopscotch.  Have you ever heard of cow-drop bingo?

Regards,
Colin
  • #5
  • Comment by Rosa
  • on: 29/09/2008
Those raviolis look absolutely gorgeous! Really perfect, beautiful and delicious! Bravo!

Cheers,

Rosa
  • #6
  • Comment by Meramarina
  • on: 29/09/2008
These look delectable.  I love comfort food, even when I'm already pretty comfortable. These remind me of my Polish grandmama's potato pierogis, although she did not cook with much refinement.  Hers were roundish dough pouches boiled all day, leaving no flavor in the food except for onion and cigarette smoke.  I will not be continuing this tradition!  I think I need a pasta machine now.  Thanks for the ideas!
  • #7
  • Comment by Randall
  • on: 29/09/2008
Although I love to cook, I have to admit that I come to this site to enjoy your wit as much as to learn new recipes!  Today was no exception.  Thanks fx!
I'm so very envious of your ability to make fresh pasta look so effortless.  I tried once last year.  We had high hopes and were planning to stuff ravioli with goat cheese, fig and lamb.  It was a Gong Show of the highest degree, and possibly one of the most upsetting experiences in my culinary career.

I might try again, but I'll have to study all of your pasta posts before I'm willing to bring that trauma back on myself!!
  • #9
  • Comment by Peter
  • on: 29/09/2008
That is a big-ass mixer.  I guess it does translate from the english.
Gorgeous, just gorgeous. My wife's grandmother used to make tortellini soup every Christmas. Thing is, they would call it "ravioli" soup, but it really was tortellini. Your post reminded me about that. See, Italians are very proud of their regions, but they are not complicated when it comes to food. To the family, if it is ravioli, then it is ravioli.

I love the pics by the way. One thing, the drying rack, where did you pick that up?

I am looking to do something like gnocchi soon.
  • #11
  • Comment by Barbara
  • on: 29/09/2008
loved your photo instructions. The pierogi recipe that is closest to this called for fried onions and potatoes, no cheese, but some do use cheese and potato. The wonderful chef I know who makes these lovely pillows does not boil them all day. like your homemade dough, hers took only a few minutes to cook. I may try to make some ravioli or pierogi soon.
  • #12
  • Comment by Alys
  • on: 29/09/2008
pyrogy, perogy, pierogi, pirogi, ... ravioli.  :D
Of course, made with potatoes. I am so grateful to the Incas for this.

Lovely pictures and desriptions of a wonderful comfort food. Thanks again.

My Ukrainian/Russian/Canadian relatives like to use a sharp cheddar for the cheese. Then fry them up and smother them in carmelized onions.  mmm, mmmm!
Standard variations include cottage cheese, and mushrooms. Both easy to come by on the farm.

The Village of Glendon, Alberta
has a giant Pyrogy (also spelt perogy)on a fork
Designer: Matrix Contracting Ltd. (Tapper, B.C.)
When Built: 1991
Dimensions:
Height: 27 Feet (8.2 Metres)
Width: 12 Feet (3.7 Metres)
Weight: 6,000 Pounds (2,718 Kilograms)

We are _serious_ about stuffing dough with potatoes!
  • #13
  • Comment by Mary Sanavia
  • on: 29/09/2008
This is a wonderful,simple recipe.
If I ever entered your kitchen, I would be like a little girl in a toy store!!!! I love all your gadgets. (I have some too,but not as fancy!)

And the pictures are unbelievable.
  • #14
  • Comment by Juliet
  • on: 30/09/2008
Looks delicious and fun to make! Thank you for sharing!! :)
  • #15
  • Comment by Chef4cook
  • on: 30/09/2008
Lovely ravioli. I like doing stuffed pasta. I have made pasta with different flours however my favorite is tipo'oo'. I get a much more refined end product. How about you?
  • #16
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Thanks Juliet I'm glad you liked my little article!
  • #17
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Mary Sanavia, thanks for your appreciation. I love kitchen "gadgets" but only buy them when the function is at least as important as the form. Hate those useless, break-at-first-use, expensive-as-hell pseudo foodie gadgets. But functional metal-made kitchen tools? Anytime!
  • #18
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Alys, tell the people of Glendon that I'm coming to eat their giant pyrogy!
  • #19
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Barbara, thanks for visiting and glad you liked my italian pierogi!
  • #20
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Jason, for years I could not even look at a picture of tortellini in brodo, but now I've had them in Cremona and that's just one of the most gorgeous pasta you can have. I ordered the drying racks from http://www.daltoscano.com, it's called "Cassetta asciugapasta", article 153 in Ustensili di cucina. They cost €6.90 a piece - great investment if you do pasta at home!
  • #21
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Peter, I guess you could call it a Texas-size mixer!
  • #22
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Tina, it's good you can now laugh at this traumatic stop on your pasta-making road, but now it's time to move on and try again. To succeed is easy if you do things like I recommend. First use a little pasta machine, then use durum wheat semolina flour, and make a rather dry dough. It should certainly not stick when you place the dough ball on a plate, or it means there is not enough flour. First make some tagliatelle, these are easy to make, and when you have done that a couple times, try a couple stuffed pasta. Everybody gets a disaster when starting with stuffed pasta - keep that for a later stage. Good luck!
  • #23
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Randall, thanks for dropping by and glad you liked my little article!
  • #24
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Meramarina, I recommend you get a pasta machine, they are very durable and make pasta-making foolproof and quite enjoyable. Have fun!
  • #25
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Rosa, thanks for your appreciation, in fact I had wondered wether to even publish this article, it is quite prosaic but nice all the same.
  • #26
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Colin, I have yet to try cow-drop bingo, but can it be done in my kitchen?
  • #27
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Chiffonade, indeed I much admire the genius of Italians and many other people, including of course the Indians, who create a delicious world of rich culinary diversity using the most simple ingredients. It is very much an image of civilization to turn underground tubers into gorgeous raviolis.
  • #28
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Zorra, I ate my many imperfect raviolis before taking the pictures ...
  • #29
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Catherine, I nearly had a heart attack when reading your suggestion of freezing my raviolis, but hey, it might work after all. The thing is they take longer to make than to eat, so I never really had leftovers raviolis!
  • #30
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 30/09/2008
Chef4cook, in Switzerland I have never found any flour with the 00 on the label. They sell them by 50kg bags to bakers, sure enough, and we might have them under other names, but I can't confirm your finding based on my experience for this reason. My own favorite type of flour for pasta making is fine durum-wheat semolina, same they use to make "dried pasta" or maccheroni.
  • #31
  • Comment by Colin Gore
  • on: 30/09/2008
FX,

Cow-drop bingo could perhaps occur in your kitchen, granted you have a pygmy cow, or an outside kitchen with an acre of pasture.  

For those unfamiliar with the game, it is vaguely similar to "Bingo" in the US.  A numbered grid is marked on a field.  Players are each assigned a number.  A well-fed cow is then let to pasture, and a winner is declared when the first area of the grid is "marked" by a cow-pie, indicating the winning number.

Naturally, it is a sport for only the most refined ladies and gentlemen.

Cheers,
Colin
  • #32
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 02/10/2008
Colin, I have to try cow-drop bingo, this is something that could work well at some farm brunch we have around here in Switzerland! How do people mark the squares on the field? Are there some martingales you can apply to win?
  • #33
  • Comment by Amy S
  • on: 04/10/2008
Looks yummy as usual. Cannot wait to try it.  Is Tomato concentrate the same as tomato paste? If not I will have to look for the concentrate.

Thanks again.
  • #34
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 06/10/2008
Amy, tomato concentrate is tomato pasta boiled until a lot of water has evaporated. You can definitely use tomato paste dough, the idea is really to color the stuffing more than anything!
I'm so making these in a couple of weeks. I love potato and I love pasta. Pretty sure I made something similar in culinary school. It was raviolis with potato and apple. So good.
Yours are absolutely beautiful!
  • #36
  • Answered by fx
  • on: 12/10/2008
Laura if you try these potato raviolis, you will ove them, and it's really extremely economical in this time of crisis!
  • #37
  • Comment by Agnieszka
  • on: 27/10/2008
FX,
Thanks for this nice recipe + photo combo. Lovely, as usual. I have a question about a pumpkin. Can you use pumpking as ravioli stuffing, and if so, what would be essential to turn it into a delicious dish? Regards
  • FX's answer→ Agnieska, indeed you can, just look at my article #137 "Heaven is a Plate of Tortellini" for the recipe. Delicious!

  • #39
  • Comment by Brunost
  • on: 03/11/2008
Thanks for your wonderful recipes/photos.
This recipe should be tried with vitelotte potatoes, they are blue/purple and would give to this dish a nice unusual color when opening the ravioli!
Regards.
  • #40
  • Comment by dorothy gleeson
  • on: 29/12/2008
amazingly, there's a load of Italian influence in the food of Poland, with the potato and quark filled raviolis as no.1. not so long ago a girl who couldn't makeher own pasta or raviolis wouldn't be regarded as fit for a marriage!
  • FX's answer→ Dororthy, amazing that these humble raviolis would be the key to marital felicity!

  • #42
  • Comment by Alex
  • on: 21/01/2009
Hi Francois!
Do you add any salt to the potato stuffing or are they salty enough because of the parmesan?
  • FX's answer→ Alex, I am not one for salt, and usually the salt in the Parmesan is enough for me, but all you need is taste and add salt as you feel is needed.

  • #44
  • Comment by mike levy
  • on: 03/06/2009
where, my friend can i find a ravioli cutter like the one in your potato raviolis post?
any help would sincerely be appreciated. i canʻt find anything like it, even on line.
we are located in san francisco ca.
p.s. you have the killerest website on earth. awesome photography and composition.
  • FX's answer→ Well thanks a lot for your kind words Mike! Ain't that a cool ravioli cutter I got myself? Unfortunately this came from Italy and I wouldn't know a source in the US to get just the same. HOWEVER you can certainly great tools with just as much soul as this one on Ebay, looking up keywords such as "pastry roller wheel dough" and "antique vintage classic" with some variation. What I use is only a pastry roller, sure it looks nice but they are common tools and Ebay always lists dozens at any given time. Happy hunting!

  • #46
  • Comment by roger
  • on: 08/08/2009
Of course the Slavs all have dough wrapped potato, but for comfort, it's the kasha, roasted buckwheat, filling for me. With chopped fresh dill in the wrappers (a la Galicia), and fried onions (especially in chicken fat) on top, I can almost speak Yiddish.
  • #47
  • Comment by Evangelina
  • on: 13/10/2009
Me han encantado tus recetas y mañana haremos mi esposo y yo la sopa minestrone, pero tambien muy pronto me animare a hacer los raviolis rellenos de papa que se ve quedan exquisitos. Espero no sea muy dificil lograr la textura correcta de la pasta porque es la primera vez que haria mi propia pasta.  Gracias por compartir en forma tan generosa tus recetas y tantas fotografias para ilustrar el paso a paso de cada una de ellas.  Gracias y saludos desde Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
  • #48
  • Comment by thomas j. byrne
  • on: 01/02/2011
Can you please tell me where to get that ravioli cutter you got from cemora italy please, all the cutters i have are way too thin resulting in leakage of stuffing when boiling...so a name or something would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Tom

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