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![]() Ultimate SpeckHome >> Experiences
I am moving FXcuisine.com to video and it takes me time to get my films at par with the articles you have enjoyed for the last 2 years. I won't be able to publish as many photo articles as before, so you photo-fans, enjoy this one! Give me time and you'll see that the videos will be just as good, with the added benefit of sound, moving images and live jokes. Nobody eats proper Speck these days. Even Italians think that industrially dried hams are where Speck ends. Nothing could be further from the truth. Real Speck [shpayk] is a whole pig carcass, deboned, rubbed with salt and spices, then dried and smoked in an alpine chalet's kitchen for a year. It is one of the most flavorful meats on earth. You can't buy it because nobody makes Speck like this any more. Or almost nobody. Sometimes when the great wave of time comes and erases all, it misses a little spot. For a while, that spot preserves what was as it was. If you are fortunate enough you can visit until the next wave comes. I found such a sport in Val d'Ultimo in the Italian Dolomites, where two local gentlemen took me in their car to show me how traditional Speck was done. Very, very few people still do it like this. Most of today's Speck is the dried deboned thigh of an imported pig. Until I came to Val d'Ultimo, I thought that this was proper Speck. Even the best salumerie in Italy produce dried meats in semi-industrial facilities as clean as a German dentist's waiting room, streamlined, efficient but soulless. But people work for money or they soon close shop, so such Specks are usually made from Austrian pigs raised industrially, and they are dried for only a couple months. Edible products, no doubt, but compared to real Speck this is like airline food and homecooked meal at FXcuisine. Dietmar Staffler (right) used to be Karl Telfser's (left) schoolteacher, until he took over the family butcher's shop, in operation for more than a century. Each has his own business producing all sorts of Tyrolian delicacies. On top of that, and more for the art than for profit, they manage to produce about two dozens traditional Specks of the highest order, hard core slow food treats for the real connaisseur. Karl and Dietmar raise a few pigs sulla malga, up in some remote alpine pastures, where they spend the whole summer enjoying the fresh air and good diet. They are slaughtered in December, then deboned and rubbed with salt and spices and left to dry for a month. Then ... but let me show you rather than tell you. We climb in Dietmar's car in the middle of a glorious afternoon and drive up the mountains in the enchanted landscape of Val d'Ultimo. Hear it straigh from the horse's mouth: this is every bit as gorgeous a setting as the Swiss Alps. The car stops and we walk down a small road in the middle of nowhere, until we reach an age-old Tyrolian chalet with wooden tiles on its roof. How many winters did it weather? Dietmar walks to the door to call the owner ... Nobody home, but the door is open. We walk into an impossibly atmospheric kitchen, straight from the days of yore, one of those places that would give an instant heart attack to a EU slow-food-killing inspector. And well done that would be, for these guys understand nothing of traditional foods.
La bohème of unmarried tyrolian cowboys in all its humble poetry ... ... and above me a dozen majestic specks, each 100 kilograms, a whole pig sliced in half and deboned hanging for a whole year, enjoying the smoke from the open hearth, like in the old days. Layers upon layers of smoky flavor slowly imbibe the meat to give a unique product fit for a king. Speck is often used to prepare pasta sauces or knoedel, but I like it best thinly sliced. The meat is very lean and is extremely fragrant with the smoke, juniper and rosemary. A pure delight! Each Speck is 100kg/200 lbs. The problem is not to sell them - Karl and Dietmar have a waiting list. What's hard is to produce it. Alpine pastures can accommodate only a couple pigs each, and slow-smoking the traditional way requires a very traditional smoker - not many of those left! Even I was not able to buy any. Hey Karl, can you put me on the waiting list for 100kg?
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Staffler-Spezialitäten
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114 Comments
- #1
- Comment by Cristian
Another masterpiece, Francois! Indeed, I was a little bit worried, what is happening with our Grand Maestro, you know?- #3
- Comment by Ty
Beautiful photos as always. A few of them, especially of the kitchen, looked as if there were oil paintings. A delicious feast for the stomach and eyes.- #5
- Comment by Just Cook It
Well worth the wait. Fantastic, as usual.- #7
- Comment by matt wright
Incredible. Fantastic photos, and boy, what a story. This is how charcuterie should still be.- #9
- Comment by Groty
Thanks Francois! That was incredible. I want some!!- #11
- Comment by Ore
Fantastic Post! The quality of your posts are incredible. Great job and we await more, more, more!- #13
- Comment by Erik
I would like to echo the previous comments by saying that as usual your pictures are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to do one more picture segment. I look forward to seeing your skills progress in the video arena.Cheers!- #15
- Comment by W.C.
re: SpeckLove to see these craftsmen at work. Thank you, Francois, for showcasing these wonderful things on the web.You are doing a fine thing by helping to keep these traditions alive.
W.C.
P.S. You know best, but myself I will be missing the photos.
- #17
- Comment by Rosa
wow, what a great product! Real Speck is to die for! Thanks for the wonderful article!Cheers,
Rosa
- #19
- Comment by Manda
Another fascinating trip.Can I just make a plea for you /not/ to go entirely to video. I love the pictures and enjoy the words but rarely want to sit through moving stuff. I think I may be alone in the world for feeling this, but there you have it, it has to be said.
All the best.
- #21
- Comment by Ciaochowlinda
Great, informative post. I just got back from a skiing trip to the Val Gardena in the Dolomites, where everybody eats Speck. I never realized that it wasn't the real homemade product. Who knew. The photo of the kitchen is priceless. Looks like a stage set.- #23
- Comment by Nikki
Awww... Well, I'll miss the text/photo posts... but only because I'm hearing impaired. It's okay - I'll just crank up the volume. :D- #25
- Comment by Marianne - Vaxholm
This was more than worth waiting for, Francois Xavier! Are rare treat and gorgeous pictures – and while I can fully appreciate that the act of cooking in real time is holding a lure for you, I have to admit that the atmospheric quality of your stills holds endless fascination for me. Your photography is so sensual that one is reminded of the period when still life painting had one of its triumphant moments in the 17th and 18th century, very often depicting kitchens and dining table arrangements. The mountainside kitchens, smokeries and dairy huts with their aged interiors and utensils in your articles hold timeless beauty. The produce itself looks sensationally good, too bad it is so rare. Thank you for taking the time to do this too!As for the German dentist’s waiting room, I have to admit I am amused. You should have seen the waiting room of my Swiss dentist; not only was it adorned with exquisite paintings, it was also clinically clean. You had to take off your shoes there in winter (which incidentally is a standard here in Sweden due to the weather, but outrageously exotic on the Continent). He also kept entertaining his patients with stories on the tricky refurbishment of his chalet, an old mill in Valais, - a setting in which I hope we will be seeing you hiking up and down the mountains to these rustic chalets soon – on video!!
Once again, thank you for throwing in the occasional photo shoot to mitigate my withdrawal symptoms and all the best and good luck with your videos!
Marianne – Vaxholm
- #27
- Comment by ND
Hehe, in the words of Tony Soprano, a good Caesar listens to his generals(: Awesome post, and not a moment too soon! That photo of the chalet really lives up to the moniker of "Val d'Ultimo!"- #29
- Comment by Dave
When you encounter those EU inspection boffins, you are getting a taste of what has ruined the regional specialties in the US. FX in photos or videos is fine with me. You have raised the bar on my learning curve. You tell jokes, too??- #31
- Comment by signoramonzi
Great panorama, I made myself dizzy going around in circles on it!Look forward to your videos, though I love the still pictures.
- #33
- Comment by Rico
Absolutely delicious and amazing parma ham (prosciutto) I loved the article and the pictures really nice indeed- #35
- Comment by Dave Marks
I enjoy your video posts, but it is very hard to view them discreetly at work. I would prefer the more numerous photo posts.Dave
- #37
- Comment by Geoff Ball
wow, great shots, brings back some great memories of my time in Italy.I really like both your photography/photojournalism and your videos. I think that for topics like this your photography is wonderful. (Mind you all of your posts are really well done :)
- #39
- Comment by Hannah
Excellent post as always! I implore you not to go entirely to video, your photos are stunning and I have trouble loading videos on my computer. Real Speck looks fantastic, I hope I can try it someday!- #41
- Comment by Cynthia
This is real food!- #43
- Comment by Laura D.
You're not alone, Manda! I too prefer the stills. It's not that I'm against video on principle or anything; I just feel that still photos are more evocative and stimulate the imagination more. Then, too, I like to read rather than listen for the same reasons. It may also be that I am something of a Luddite. However...This speck makes me long to produce all my own food--or at least get myself a neighbor who does. Boo! to the EU and its soul-killing, sterile rules. They want only facsimiles of food, not real food.
There are lots of people who produce their own dried meats, I did that with my uncle, it really is fun. You can start with sausages, they are easy to make!
- #45
- Comment by Louise
I'm Italian and I'm speechless. Need I say more? Yes, absolutely stunning. Incredibly presented. I long for the journey you have taken us on. Thank you, FX. Thank you...- #47
- Comment by Daniele
Dearest FX,You are on top of your game my friend, I follow you always with greeat envy I have to admit...I am an Italian now living in California and sometimes you are my most salivating connection to my bel paese.
Please continue your pleasurable efforts in showing this amazing places and people I dearly miss.
Ciao e a presto.
- #49
- Comment by carmen
Hello Francious It is so good to hear from you. You are so lucky to see these things. Were do you get these ideas and information? Your blog fascinates me... Keep up the good work. I must say that you have the most interesting and original blog I have ever seen. Hope you and your loved ones are well. God bless you.Warm Regards Carmen Kunhardt<
- #51
- Comment by Jon
I too am sorry to hear that you're moving away from the wonderful combination of great photography and captivating accounts that you've been providing us with for the last 2 years.The videos are looking very promising though and I'm really looking forward to seeing more! Hopefully soon and more often.
I produce video for a living, so if you need any help, advice or technical support please feel free to contact me, I am at your service.
Best
Jon
- #53
- Comment by Patricia
FX, I truly love your photos and am a little sad they will no longer be available. Although, I am very excited to see your new videos. I have seen the videos you made and they are not only informative but comical. I love it! I am awed by your selection of places you visit, they are so beautiful and timeless. You present your work sooo well! I am a buyer for a gourmet shop and I bring in Alto Adige Speck from Italy. It is a unique product and if only my customers here could see what time, labor and dedication it takes to produce such a unique product they would buy it more. It was funny to see in the 360panoramic view a stove top on top of a washing machine. The room looks so rustic. Thank you for sharing all your experiences with us and traveling the world of food in this amazing blog. You're the best! Aloha-Patricia- #55
- Comment by Bruce M
Ah, Francois-Xavier, what joy you bring!! To be sitting here at my desk in Australia and then to be suddenly transported to Val d'Ultimo has been The Amazing Experience Of The Week!! :) I guess some credit goes to Internet inventors, but the lion's share of praise goes to you, Monsieur FX! Thank you so much, those Vermeer-like photos are treasures!Hmm.. and that mention of his apricot jam has stirred my tastebuds!! I dabble in hand-made jams and would love to learn Karl's secrets!
Warmest regards B
- #57
- Comment by the.asipring.baker
damn! i'll miss your photos fx! smth about vids that just can't quite capture the beauty of food or the landscape...(loads faster too)
- #59
- Comment by Nigel Redhead
Just to thank you for your article on Japanese Knives.And pointing me in the direction of Chef's Depot.
I ended up with a set made in CHINA !!!
Regards NR
- #61
- Comment by chiffonade
Speck is a new animal to me as I was weaned on Prosciutto but I became intrigued when I happened upon a package of it in a ski lodge's fridge. I sampled a slice and was hooked.Thanks for the account of how it's done "old skool"!!
Let me say that while I'm sure your videos will be just as educational and enjoyable as your still photography, I'll miss the beautiful photos. Please say you'll publish a few stills along with your vids!
I guess your new offerings will be "food porn talkies."
Many regards and thanks again for a wonderful site. I'm thrilled to see what's new and upcoming at FX Cuisine.
<3 Chiffonade
- #63
- Comment by Judith Basham
I could not agree with you more regarding the antiseptic attitude which oozes out of the EU. It has and is killing centuries old traditions, which amazingly has not killed any of us thus far in great quantities. I firmly and resolutely believe it is the fast food chains and cheaply antiseptically produced food which is murdering the G8 population, coupled with the attitude if food does not go "ding" it can't be food (micro wave food). Beautiful aticule; I could nearly taste it. Warm regards, Judth (ps had a superb time in Verbier; the car came back loaded with many Swiss delicacies AND a Rauclette machine. Yum Yum)- #65
- Comment by Jo
You have struck gold there, rarer I think. I love the panorama shot especially. How do you find these places or do they come to you in a dream?- #67
- Comment by Stephen
Please kindly re-consider the move to primarily video....So nice to drop by your site for a few minutes during the day and gaze at the lovely still images and crackling prose. Video is fun, but it does not lend itself to casual browsing nor high definition images.- #69
- Comment by Meramarina
"There are lots of people who produce their own dried meats, I did that with my uncle, it really is fun."Oh no, FX, your poor uncle! How could you ! (just joking! : )
Sorry about that.
I have an uncle down South (USA) who has a yearly pig pickin' in the autumn. I don't know if he dries or cures some of the meat afterwards but it would make sense to do so.
I'm sure the videos will be great fun, since they are already good. I am like many of your other commentators, though, in that I'll miss the photos and your writing a lot. Well, the future films should keep us all smiling to see you hamming it up for the camera!
You may now shoot a Speckknödel off of my head for my pickin' on your sentence!
- #71
- Comment by Shreela
I've never heard about meat smoked so long. I wish I could taste some. You mentioned juniper and rosemary; are those rubbed into the meat, or used with the smoke?Although I have high speed connection which makes it easy to view movies, I still enjoy photograph pictorials -- unless there's a specific movement involved. Good luck with learning sub-titles you mentioned in response to someone else's comments. I learned very basic sub-titling from the web, and it was quite challenging, even though my results weren't very pleasing. But I don't do a big blog with movies, so I wasn't motivated to practice to improve 8^)
I would enjoy seeing a teaser photo in the RSS/XML/Atom feeds, thanks if you can.
- #73
- Comment by damascene
I love speck. I just found a source in New York City for the first time since my youth. It was great to learn how it made.- #75
- Comment by Charlie
Excellent article! I'd plan a trip around that. Loved the 360 too..- #77
- Comment by James (powerplantop)
What a treasure to be able to visit this location.I am looking forward to the new videos ( I am subsribed on you tube) but do please keep including a few pictures. You have the eye to see greatness that others will miss.
- #79
- Comment by don siranni
Francois,this one is really worth waiting for.I will use my cold smoker system,but the "Val" pasture will need to be substituted.I assume that the winter temp goes below freezing during the year cure time,or do they do something about that. I too,kinda hope the video takes a wee bit tooo long to replace the "real" pictures,that was a bit of a nasty break,sorta'- #81
- Comment by Ben
Francois, as usual, your photography is excellent and the story you write is great as well. All of us enjoy your hard work in creating these photo stories as well as your videos. But I will also say that I prefer the photo stories to the video. It's always possible to turn on the tv and see all the latest celebrity chefs showing us things. What I enjoy most is lingering over your beautiful photos as I read the story. I'm not going to stop visiting your site but I just wanted to let you know that your photo stories are much appreciated. Thanks.- #83
- Comment by Mingus
Dear Francois,Your videos are very well-made instructional videos -- but that's all they are and there are plenty of those out there. A talking head shot is just a talking head shot no matter how good the production quality is.
Your photography is where it's at. This is where you are contributing with something unique: storytelling, research and -- yes, really -- a poetic dimension.
I realize this is not your job, it's something you do in your spare time. You have to steer it in whatever direction you can in order to keep yourself interested in the project. You may be bored with the photo articles, you may be doing video simply because you want to learn how to do it -- which is fine. But as a reader, I can only hope you don't let the heart of FX drown in the bottomless time sink that is video production.
There is a reason why movie-making is a team effort, whereas most photographers work alone.
Keep up the good work, Francois -- I love your site!
- #85
- Comment by michael
I'm always interested to read your articles, and have recommended your web site to many people! - Having said that "Speck" isn't my thing as I no longer eat Dead Animals! - Les Animaux sont mes amis et je ne mange pas mes amis! - What do you think of my French? - a few articles for fellow Vegetarians please. (if there are any among your 150,000 viewers!)- #87
- Comment by Beatrice
Bonjour Francois, a couple of years ago the (now probably broke) wonderful European health insurance sent my husband to stay for a two-week "cure" after knee surgery, to castel Fragsbourg, an old hunting lodge high above Merano. Of course I tagged along, lol. It's one of the most interesting places we've stayed, and we had real speck every day.- #89
- Comment by AlysM
Again, very good and informative. Thank you.I'm with Manda.
I don't sit through your videos and will mourn the loss of your information if you do this way.
best
- #91
- Comment by Jon
Hi FrancoisI do a lot of short promotional videos and some documentary stuff as well, usually with a small production team but I'm mostly doing all the parts of the process.
If you're having problems with your drivers I'm suspecting your using a windows-based PC. With all the video-cards out there the software unfortunately doesn't always play nice with the hardware.
What kind of equipment are you using to record the video? Are you having any problems importing the footage or exporting the videos?
- #93
- Comment by celso
Hi, François, I partly agree with my fellow readers. I like your videos too, but I don't think you may give up with the photo articles...- #95
- Comment by jmz
I like the videos, too but miss the photography articles. What a great article! I really need to go back to Tyrolia (where my ancestors are from- Austria!) I loved the images of rustic kitchens and gorgeous rolling hills! [also: as the spelling police it's "thigh" not 'tigh' but feel free to edit this out, as I didn't intend this correction to be posted :) cheers!]- #97
- Comment by Beatrice
Oh,now you make me feel guilty! Much water under the bridge...working on a solar project in Dubai. Once I get the investor literature under control, I promise to start editing! Salute!- #99
- Comment by Shu
like many here, I'll miss your beautiful pictures accompanied by wonderfully humorous writeup.I'm already missing the twice a week regularity of your previous articles.
Maybe you could do photos for experiences and video for receipes?
But don't let me stand in the way of progress! I'm sure there's plenty of excitement to look out for in your videos. I still get a smile recalling your 1st ever video with swear words and bloopers!
- #101
- Comment by Tea
Ok, I have been following this blog for SO long and I finally decided to drop you a line. The articles and topics are so interesting, not the mention the photography. As a lover of speck, I was very pleased with this post...Can I only ask you to please give me the contact info of that boy that is cutting that piece of meat?! :))- #103
- Comment by Donna Barr
Those responsible for bad food are the distributors and industrial producers. Not the farmers. Once again, the actual original workers are paying for the sins of the large -- kind of like the average American is paying for Wall Street. Enough of this already! Control the supermarkets and sales crews -- but let alone those of us who are adults and will take the responsibility for what we put in our mouths.- #105
- Comment by Anand
Hi François,The reasons I have been drawn to your blog for a long time now are : 1. Amazing Food 2. Photographs accompanying the food 3. Your writing style. It truly transports the reader to the place you describe.
A a request from an avid reader, could you kindly continue to post your regular blog along with videos? This is most useful for office reading :).
We will definitely enjoy the more live presentation in video, but a good photograph cannot be substituted with anything else. A lot of things can be really enjoyed and felt within the mind/imagination.
Looking forward to a lot more reading in the future.
Cheers,
Anand
(India)
- #107
- Comment by felicity
Love this post! I live in Tirol (this is the proper way to spell it) and i am sure i have never tasted speck as good as the ones you picture! i was in Kärnten (another state of Austria) on the weekend and my Kärntener friends insisted that their speck was much better than the Tirolean speck! i don't want to get involved in these types of battles! You should make some Speckknödel (or Tirolerknödel), with melted butter and parmesan. Yum!!!- #108
- Comment by Scott
I made speck from pork belly. You can see the post in my blog.- #109
- Comment by Wm Patrick Cranley
Just discovered your website, FX, and am mightily inspired. It's already on my bookmark toolbar, and I look forward to "digesting" your full archive. Come visit us in Shanghai if you get a chance!Regards,
Patrick Cranley
P.S. Though, since it is nearly impossible to taste "real speck," that whole article was just a big tease...
- #110
- Comment by Stacey D'Amico
I love speck. I have it when I was in Italy last. It's almost impossible to find here in the US.I have an awesome recipe I was taught how to cook at a Tuscan cooking school.
You are so lucky to live in such a gastronomically rich area with access to such great food ingredients
- #111
- Comment by Francesca
Amazing post and pictures! It remembers me my holidays in Trentino Alto Adige. Great place to visit and to experience gastronomy.Greetings and congrats from TheFoodyTeller ;)
- #113
- Comment by Mugurel
Hello Francois,i am looking at your site for the past 3 hours (from the point I discovered it)....it is breathtaking...i mean everything...the photos and all...i will visit this place...it is not far from where I live in Kufstein-Austria..my dream is to visit Japan...do you have some recomendations for a beginner in the adventure of asian/indian cooking?
Thank you very much for your kind reply
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